Valspar IH Red Rattle Can

[Michael Bullington 5]

Anyone tested the difference between the Restoration Red and the Regular Red...its about $3 a difference between the two...

Thanks

Michael

[kpinnc 12,757]

The "restoration series" rattle can contains hardner. The regular IH red does not.

Kevin

[Raider12 13]

The "restoration series" rattle can contains hardner. The regular IH red does not.

Kevin

A rattle can paint with hardner sounds like well spent $3.

Denver

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,348]

The color is exactly the same. The tractor pictutred below was painted with HVLP Valspar Restoration series, the engine shroud is painted with rattle can regular Valsapr IH Red. They look identical.

[Lane Ranger 11,023]

One of the TSC managers tht sells the Valspar Restoration paint said to my brother and me that the International Harvester Red Restoration paint is the best seller in the TSC stores!

And I believe him as every time we go we try to buy a few cans and they are genrally gone a day or two after the truck delivers them!

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,362]

I have used both and I will now only use the Restoration series.

[Michael Bullington 5]

thanks I may use the regular for the frame trans and engine parts just to save a few bucks...and use the restoration on all the sheet metal...hood fender etc..

That tractor looks great!

Thanks for all the help

[Butch 194]

I used the Valspar IH Red Resto paint in the rattle can. It stayed soft for too long for me to use again. It was still soft after a month. The parts are still hanging up after about 8 months of drying time!! I'm gonna finish the tractor with a paint and hardener you mix for a gun. No more rattle cans for me. For it being a rattle can it was pretty good stuff although different people have tried other rattle cans with good luck. Ya go with what you can afford and how much time and effort you wanna put into it.

Butch

S. Jersey

[sorekiwi 761]

I've used both, and I think the resto series dries shinier. I also think it goes on better.

My tractor budget is severly restricted right now, and I still go for the Resto series!!

[Michael Bullington 5]

Hey guys after experimenting with both paints...I like the Restoration Paint best...It really looks great!! It may just be me, but I can even see a slight color difference in the light....In my opionon the Restoration paint is the only way to go! :thumbs2:

[tgranthamfd 29]

I started out with the regular tractor and implement, took about a month to dry hard. Switched to the restoration series, drys hard in a week, and as mentioned, I can't tell a difference either on the shade. I will get a side by side of the 2 fenders, and see if anyone can tell a difference, may take me a day or 2.

[roadking 0]

thanks for the info on the paint that was so helpful, so if i stay with spray cans i know what to buy,how about the primer what did you use , and did that have anything to do with drying time

roadking

[tgranthamfd 29]

Got a side by side picture. See if you can tell me which one is the tractor and implement, and which one is the restoration series. The resto series flows out better a dries hard a bit quicker, and yes they are both rattel canned.

Have fun!! Just in case anyone wants to know, the one on the right is the restoration series, I think. :thumbs2:

[MikesRJ 552]

Got a side by side picture. See if you can tell me which one is the tractor and implement, and which one is the restoration series.

A quick scratch, by just a pants pocket rivet, will tell the difference right away. Also, you can tell just having two machines next to each other (like at a show).

By the way, I believe the one on the left in the first picture, and the ones on the right in the second and third pictures is Restoration Series (RS) paint. Take a look at the "flash stars", especially in the third picture down. The reason they are smaller and more defined is because the paint leveled out better (flow agents in the paint) and is much "flatter" and cleaner on the RS than it is on the Tractor & Implement (T&I) paint. Look closely at the reflections of things around the fenders (i.e. your painting rack to the right of the right fender, you can make it out clear as day). You can see further away, and the reflected light is much sharper on the right fender. You get a truer reflection of the flash and things around because the light isn't as diffused through the uneven top surface of the paint. In other words the paint will give you a deeper color and deeper reflection resulting in a cleaner shine.

Place two identical metal rulers perpendicular to the fender surfaces and see how high up the ruler you can read the numbers. I'll bet the RS paint will be much clearer further up the ruler than the T&I. Put an RS painted tractor next to a T&I and the RS will win in appearance hands down every time. The paint job will be that much better, and you haven't even buffed it out yet. Wait till you see the difference then. Try it after a month of drying time and you'll see what I mean. Once they a buffed you'll see a major difference.

Just MHO .......

The restoration series is a much better "working" paint; sprays better; flows out better; has hardener so it hardens quicker; allows you to use IR lamps to accelerate drying without effecting the appearance; much more scratch resistant; and will last far longer than the standard tractor and implement paint. There is no color difference between the two and the added expense of the restoration series paint is far outweighed by the benefit of hardness and longevity of the finished parts.

You put a lot of time and work into restoring the machine, why skimp on the paint? All that hard work doesn't make a hill of beans if it doesn't look as good three years from now as it did when it was first completed. Is all this nit-picky? You bet, but doing the best you can with what you have makes all the difference in the world!

[tgranthamfd 29]

Mike, you hit it right on. I had forgotten about having to walk around to take the picture, on the top photo. Good eye. These have not been color sanded or buffed, just rinsed and waxed for the photo opp. :thumbs2:

[buckrancher 2,694]

I have used both and perfer the restoration series the only

trouble I've had is with the rattle can leaving particles (lumps)

so I'll use it on small parts and cast piece's all the tin(hood 'fender's etc.) I mix from a quart can and spray with a HLVP touch up gun the air gun does

lay it down better and the gloss is alittle better than the rattle can

from what I'am seeing

:thumbs2:

[MikesRJ 552]

If you guys have taken a look at my restoration there is one thing you've reminded me of that I've not stated before now.

In all the photos I have taken of my parts and posted to the web, not a single part has been "touched up" for the photos. What I mean is that every painted piece I have displayed is the paint job as it was when sprayed. No sanding, no buffing, no wax, no nothing.

I generally do not do any finishing work for at least 30 days after the final coat is sprayed. All of the parts are allowed to fully cure before any finishing is done to them including any clear coating. That's the difference between HVLP painting with hardeners and a rattle can. All of my parts are from a rattle can and I have seen more good work ruined by poor rattle-can painting technique than anything else.

Some people shoot better with an HVLP gun (I personally am only passable with HVLP), and some folks do better with the rattle-can (this is where I do best). My HVLP parts are OK, but generally take more work to get show quality than when I use a rattle-can. I cannot explain it, its just the way it works for me.

[buckrancher 2,694]

I believe my rattle can problems are do to the uncanny

ability to find bad can's of paint I've had two cans of IH red vaspar(restoration)out

of five

and one can of rustolem semi gloss black that I could not get a smooth finish with

(lumps and bumps)

you tend to get alittle upset after the third time you strip and repaint one part :thumbs2:

[abrown0920 0]

If you guys have taken a look at my restoration there is one thing you've reminded me of that I've not stated before now.

In all the photos I have taken of my parts and posted to the web, not a single part has been "touched up" for the photos. What I mean is that every painted piece I have displayed is the paint job as it was when sprayed. No sanding, no buffing, no wax, no nothing.

I generally do not do any finishing work for at least 30 days after the final coat is sprayed. All of the parts are allowed to fully cure before any finishing is done to them including any clear coating. That's the difference between HVLP painting with hardeners and a rattle can. All of my parts are from a rattle can and I have seen more good work ruined by poor rattle-can painting technique than anything else.

Some people shoot better with an HVLP gun (I personally am only passable with HVLP), and some folks do better with the rattle-can (this is where I do best). My HVLP parts are OK, but generally take more work to get show quality than when I use a rattle-can. I cannot explain it, its just the way it works for me.

Your write ups are great. Would you mind giving us your rattle can write up. ( and body work also maybe?)

[MikesRJ 552]

I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, a good body man. In fact, I had so many problems getting my hood right, I called in a body and fender expert to give me a hand. So I am totally unqualified to write anything on that subject.

The rattle can painting, I could probably throw something together on that subject, but not until I have some time after the restore. I still have the plow to refurbish, so perhaps during that sequence. The plow bar has small parts and intricate areas to paint, while the blade has large areas. We'll see how the schedule looks and I can always add it to my write-up later.

[norman 0]

Valspar paint link

Here is the link for Valspar resto paint