My new 875

[Ponyboy 64]

Just wanted to share, picked up an 875 yesterday from up north in Washington yesterday. PO had it for about 15 years as his dedicated mower. Seems mostly original. 
 

I’m new to WHs and have a question about this one: I haven’t engaged the mower just yet (took the belt off from engine to the mule drive pulley to help get the engine started) but is there a way to ‘lock’ the right-side pedal so the mower stops spinning (rather than continually holding the pedal down)?

 

thanks!

Edited April 17, 2022 by Ponyboy

[WHX?? 48,801]

Sounds like the roll pin might be missing from just inside the foot rest. The little lever on the pedal should catch on the pin holding the deck disengaged. See if there is a hole thru the footrest bar where a roll pin should be. Get us a close up of the pedal area or

Maybe one of the fellas has got  a pic of how it should be. We should get this fixed as a real safety hazzard in the day before safety switches.

Sure is a nice looking survivor. 

In case you didn't know it a 875 is a desirable tractor for us hardcore collectors. First year for a  hydro or "wheelamatic".

Edited April 17, 2022 by WHX??

[wfrpalm 218]

Mine was just froze up after sitting for years, A shot of penetrating oil took care of it.

 

[Pullstart 62,812]

Nice ride!  My Aunt lives in your town 

[squonk 41,040]

If you blow up this pic, you can see the roll pin.

 

[D_Mac 8,593]

The 1075 and the 875 are great little garden tractors. Looks like you picked up a nice one. I like the custom grip you have on the right hand control lever, but it may get in the way if you ever put a plow on it. On mine that lever and the plows directional lever come really close to rubbing in certain positions.

Edited April 17, 2022 by D_Mac

[pfrederi 17,685]

Roll pin you may be missing (the ends are the two yellow dots)

 

 

 

 

[peter lena 8,589]

@Ponyboy , noting that open gear , horizontal shaft drive to mower deck, use a lubricant that will stay with it , lucas xtra heavy duty , hi temp , ANTI SLING , polyurea , recovering grease , at wall mart  $ 7 . also detail lube every movement related area . makes that work much easier , just an idea , pete 

[Ponyboy 64]

10 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Sounds like the roll pin might be missing from just inside the foot rest. The little lever on the pedal should catch on the pin holding the deck disengaged. See if there is a hole thru the footrest bar where a roll pin should be. Get us a close up of the pedal area or

Maybe one of the fellas has got  a pic of how it should be. We should get this fixed as a real safety hazzard in the day before safety switches.

Sure is a nice looking survivor. 

In case you didn't know it a 875 is a desirable tractor for us hardcore collectors. First year for a  hydro or "wheelamatic".

@WHX?? It does indeed look like I’m missing the pin. Also, is that longer piece I circled supposed to swivel/move at all (maybe to disengage the locked pedal)? Looks like the PO got a little red spray paint happy…it doesn’t move at all.

 

Is that roll pin an easy find?

Edited April 17, 2022 by Ponyboy

[Achto 27,516]

19 hours ago, Ponyboy said:

Is that roll pin an easy find?

 

A common 1/4" roll pin about an inch long will do the trick for you. Tap it in to the hole leaving about a 1/4" sticking out. That small peddle should pivot.

 

Here is how it should look in the disengaged position.

 

When you step on the small peddle it should lift up over the roll pin to engage the PTO.

 

When you step on the large peddle the small one should snap down behind the roll pin to hold it in the disengaged position.

Edited April 18, 2022 by Achto

[EB-80/8inPA 1,639]

3 hours ago, D_Mac said:

On mine that lever and the plows directional lever come really close to rubbing in certain positions.

Same deal on my No-Name 8/4. It gets really annoying when plowing.  I’m pretty sure it’s original to the tractor, so it’s kind of a head scratcher as to why they would have done that.

[D_Mac 8,593]

1 hour ago, EB-80/8inPA said:

Same deal on my No-Name 8/4. It gets really annoying when plowing.  I’m pretty sure it’s original to the tractor, so it’s kind of a head scratcher as to why they would have done that.

I ment the grip on @Ponyboynew 875 seams to have a custom grip on the right hand lever. Being that his is so much wider it could interfere with the already tight clearance between the two levers, if he should ever add a plow. I know by design its close with the stock grips.

[WHGuy413 2,683]

What a gem. One of my bucket list tractors.

[WHX?? 48,801]

2 hours ago, Ponyboy said:

Is that roll pin an easy find?

Should be at any decent hardware store just ask the clerk where the roll pins are. Might be 3/16 tho??

A good thing to have handy....here.

That lever should  pivot freely so some greasy pete maybe required. 

 

5 minutes ago, WHGuy413 said:

What a gem. One of my bucket list tractors.

or a 1075. .... ok both....

This 876 just don't cut it! 

[D_Mac 8,593]

875 is nice....... But the big block short frame 1075 is the one to have. Both work even better !!

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,036]

933188 replaced by 32121-93 is a 3/16" x 1" spirol pin.

[EB-80/8inPA 1,639]

2 hours ago, D_Mac said:

Being that his is so much wider it could interfere with the already tight clearance between the two levers,

Yes.  Agreed.  If that grip were on the no-name they would not get past each other. 

[Tractorhead 9,064]

15 hours ago, Achto said:

 

A common 1/4" roll pin about an inch long will do the trick for you. Tap it in to the hole leaving about a 1/4" sticking out. 

 

 

Based on @ Achto‘s pic you can also see the small hole on the other side of the small Pedal.

i used some Penetration Gun Oil ( ballistol) and drip it in.

than few movements with a longer Wrench to become it loose.

continued that several times until it works again gently and smooth.

The spring you can see at the end of that lever tends the small pedal to move back it you predden the bigger part of pedal over the Roll pin to arrest.

 

It is a very simple but cool design.

maintenance is each 3 months few dribbs oil into the hole to lubricate the Axles.

This hole can be good seen in the upper Pic.

 

You maybe need just once a little force to become it loose if the small pedal is too sticky.

after it brokes loose it works easy by gently toe pressing to release the Mowerdeck Beltspanner.

 

 

[Ponyboy 64]

On 4/17/2022 at 8:19 AM, Achto said:

 

A common 1/4" roll pin about an inch long will do the trick for you. Tap it in to the hole leaving about a 1/4" sticking out. That small peddle should pivot.

 

Here is how it should look in the disengaged position.

 

When you step on the small peddle it should lift up over the roll pin to engage the PTO.

 

When you step on the large peddle the small one should snap down behind the roll pin to hold it in the disengaged position.

@Achto, are these pics of yours also from an 875? Reason I ask is b/c your pedal assembly snugs right up with the body frame, while mine has another roll pin in the way, blocking it from getting any closer (see pic). Everything on mine still seems to line up ok (the #73 link part on the diagram helps with the spacing), but the diagram doesn’t note that roll pin to the left of the pedal assembly, only the right (for the pedal to engage). 
Also, in my last pic do I have everything assembled correctly (minus the roll pin and cotter pin notes with arrows in the photo, which I have)? Or does the spring go on the right side of the link #73 piece? Thanks!

[Achto 27,516]

55 minutes ago, Ponyboy said:

 

The pictures that I provided are from my 857 but the set up should be the same. I have not seen the peddle spaced out from the frame like yours before, but that does not mean that it's not correct.

 

You have the spring in the correct place-ish. On my small block tractors with this PTO set up, the spring actually is hooked into the loop of the cotter pin. Hooking it there provides the pivot tension needed for the little peddle to lock against the pin to hold disengaged. 

Edited May 19, 2022 by Achto

[Ponyboy 64]

Spring in the cotter pin...makes perfect sense and works great! Thanks!

 

Now my problem is trying to get that bleepin' roll pin installed below the pedal to help disengage the PTO. An old roll pin or something else was jammed down in there, and I've been trying for weeks to get it out: penetrating oils, torch heat, and good ol' hammering with a punch press did nothing. Tried from both ends (harder to get at the lower one with a hammer) but to no avail. Then gave cobalt-tipped drill bits a try, figured I'd just drill out the old piece. May continue trying as I was getting some results working through but it's slow-going (I'm maybe 1/4 of the way through the hole). May try titanium next. I considered instead of using the original 3/16 x 1" roll pin to use a 1/2" length and not drill through the whole thing, but I don't think that would be as stable.

 

I would take any additional advice people are willing to throw at me. I'm afraid if I keep hammering away at it, I'm going to break off that pedal bar from the frame (I think that's just welded on, and I'm not a welder and don't want to have to haul it to somebody who can do it).

Edited May 19, 2022 by Ponyboy

[squonk 41,040]

The 875/1075 have the roll pin inside keeping the pedal out farther. I know on the 1075 the linkage is slightly different to clear the big block engine. Perhaps WH made them the same on that hydro model. The actual pedal looks the same between the 1075 and 857

 

1075:

 

 

857:

 

[Achto 27,516]

4 hours ago, Ponyboy said:

Then gave cobalt-tipped drill bits a try, figured I'd just drill out the old piece. May continue trying as I was getting some results working through but it's slow-going (I'm maybe 1/4 of the way through the hole). May try titanium next.

 

Roll pins are harder that Chinese algebra. Pick up a carbide tipped drill bit, (carbide tipped concrete bit will work) & they are inexpensive. Medium pressure with medium to high speed & let it chew through. With all other bits you will just burn the tip till it's dull. I've used concrete bits on many steering wheel roll pins. Also used one to drill through a transmission mushroom gear ( almost as hard as a roll pin ).

[WHX?? 48,801]

Yeah I tried the cobalt drill once but all I did was trash a perfectly good bit.

Surprises me it wouldn't come out with the heat wrench.

 

[Handy Don 12,174]

13 hours ago, Achto said:

Roll pins are harder than Chinese algebra

What a great description. Giving me a great smile for today, thanks!