car-bole electric fuel pump

[peter lena 8,878]

https://www.amazon.com/CarBole-Universal-2-3-5P-S-I-Operating-Self-Priming/dp/B01IR6BNKY/ref=sr_1_3?  , have this in use for years now , low pressure pump , perfect for  horse use, , very good pricing , paid $ 18 , super quiet , added a small single green , LED  light on dash , for on verification.  very reliable ,  pete 

[davem1111 2,055]

On 4/16/2022 at 8:45 AM, peter lena said:

https://www.amazon.com/CarBole-Universal-2-3-5P-S-I-Operating-Self-Priming/dp/B01IR6BNKY/ref=sr_1_3?  , have this in use for years now , low pressure pump , perfect for  horse use, , very good pricing , paid $ 18 , super quiet , added a small single green , LED  light on dash , for on verification.  very reliable ,  pete 

 

I've installed these on both my 312-A and 416-8.  For me the only challenges were finding a good place to mount them, and figuring out the best place to tap in the wiring to come on with the key switch.  If these last 3-4 years, I'll be happy.  Replacement would be cheap and easy if they don't last that long.

 

[Cee245 819]

@davem1111

could you show a couple close up pictures of where you spliced in on both the 416 onan and the 312 kohler??

Edited April 18, 2022 by Cee245

[davem1111 2,055]

44 minutes ago, Cee245 said:

@davem1111

could you show a couple close up pictures of where you spliced in on both the 416 onan and the 312 kohler??

 

Sure.  Since I was working on both of these around the same time,  I had to go check to see which one is which.  These are not "final" pictures but show which wires I tapped in to.  I re-did most of this with soldered connections later.  Note that there *may* be better places to tap in, like on the red wire coming out of the key switch, but in my case I took what I thought was the easy route (and may have not been as easy in the long run).  If you don't already have the wiring diagram for any tractor you're working on, get that first and look it over.

 

 

This is the 1989 416-8.  The orange wire looped around from the second from left punch-down contact and back down into the third from last (10th) position. Basically all I did was check for 12v with the key off, and the key on. If it had power with just the key on, it was a candidate for my pump, so it would only run with the key on.  Be careful with these punch-down connectors - some were pretty corroded.  You can see that the wire in the 10th position is popping back out. Need to get good contact AND make sure it won't get pulled out again during operation...  On this one I later removed the "squeeze" connector under the red tape and soldered the connections. The fatter red wire coming in from the right is the positive lead for the pump.

 

 

 

 

 

On the 1987 312-A, the wiring is a bit different. There's a black wire that loops across but it's a ground. I chose the 11th position to tap in, where I have the test probe. In this case, the contacts in the punch-down were so corroded that I couldn't get a good connection. So I removed the edge connector and the circuit board, cleaned up a spot on the 11th position contact on the circuit board, soldered a piece of wire to that, then just ran the wire out around the circuit board and soldered the connections together out front.

 

 

 

Hope this helps!

[davem1111 2,055]

I thought I'd add a picture to show where I put the pump on the 312-A.  There may be a better place, but it was pretty simple to drop it in near the original pump, below the carb in front. I didn't bolt it down yet, but it's pretty stable. 

 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,633]

That's where I put mine as well.  I made a block off plate where the mechanical fuel pump was and welded on the bolts to the plate and mounted it there.  I mounted the positive end to the ignition coil side that gets 12v when key is on and grounded to the closest engine cover bolt.  It's working fine so far

 

[squonk 41,649]

Those electric pumps push better than pull. It's best to mount them as close to the tank as possible.

[OutdoorEnvy 1,633]

36 minutes ago, squonk said:

Those electric pumps push better than pull. It's best to mount them as close to the tank as possible.

 

I can see that.  Mine has gravity feed all the way to the pump so it shouldn't be working it too hard. 

[davem1111 2,055]

 

1 hour ago, squonk said:

Those electric pumps push better than pull. It's best to mount them as close to the tank as possible.

 

38 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

 

I can see that.  Mine has gravity feed all the way to the pump so it shouldn't be working it too hard. 

 

 

Makes sense - I think next time I'm working on these, I'll look at relocating the pump back under the seat.  Shouldn't be difficult.

 

[953 nut 56,186]

9 hours ago, squonk said:

Those electric pumps push better than pull. It's best to mount them as close to the tank as possible.

As low as safely possible too.

23 hours ago, davem1111 said:

I later removed the "squeeze" connector under the red tape and soldered the connections.

        Wish you would ditch the wire nuts too.      

[davem1111 2,055]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

As low as safely possible too.

        Wish you would ditch the wire nuts too.      

 

Yes sir, I did indeed replace some of the wire nuts with soldered joints, and will do the rest very soon.    The safety reminders are much appreciated - I know I tend to do things a little haphazardly at times. 

[carlosking450 155]

Yo tambien monte una bomba electrica en mi 702 y es una maravilla¡

 

[pfrederi 18,004]

4 hours ago, carlosking450 said:

Yo tambien monte una bomba electrica en mi 702 y es una maravilla¡

 

I also mount an electric pump in my 702 and it is wonderful!