formariz 11,987 #1 Posted April 13, 2022 It’s been a while since I had one of these in my hand but isn’t this a problem having the contacts touch the mounting surface? They protrude past bottom of unit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #2 Posted April 13, 2022 @formariz my experience is that those contacts are not a problem , what is a problem , is the lack of a solid enhanced ground , horses are known for related electrical issues ,taking for granted that you can just hook up something and it will work is a 50/50 deal . if it works you are lucky . think your engine cooling tins are a good ground source? how much paint and rust is related to that ? since adding a main line ground cable to my horses and related ,rectifier and headlight 10-12 ga wire to electrical lugs , my erratic electrical is at attention at the turn of the key . engine corner bolt , to frame , next to clutch pedal , serrated washers , bolt on electrical lug ,and cable to battery ground bolt next to battery , thats your main line ground . dielectric grease every stage . heard , you don,t have to do that , but my issues went away when i did . just an idea , that works , grounded , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #3 Posted April 13, 2022 The contacts don't touch the mounting area (usually the blower cowling). Only the body of the VR (which is critical for its cooling and grounding) touches the mounting surface (I added a ground from the mounting screw on my Onan, just for giggles). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,601 #4 Posted April 13, 2022 (edited) 45 minutes ago, formariz said: isn’t this a problem having the contacts touch the mounting surface? They protrude past bottom of unit. You are looking at the top side. When it's installed, the terminals will be clear of every thing. Edited April 13, 2022 by Achto 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #5 Posted April 13, 2022 If you wanted to mount it terminal side down, just put a couple of washers under the bolt holes to space it up. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #6 Posted April 13, 2022 (edited) Mounting it upside down will work but spacers should be made so tabs will not break. I don’t think that is the intended mounting way although it works. Cooling fins should be totally exposed to air. Contacts on this one stick past surface almost 1/8”. Bad design in my opinion . Another Chinese product. I think I will make spacers and mount it the way it should be also isolating contacts with something. Edited April 13, 2022 by formariz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,601 #7 Posted April 13, 2022 (edited) 3 minutes ago, formariz said: Cooling fins should be totally exposed to air. That style they put the cooling fins toward the engine fan. There should be a hole in the shroud that the body drops into. The fins are not really long enough for free air cooling. Edited April 13, 2022 by Achto 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,987 #8 Posted April 13, 2022 (edited) 33 minutes ago, Achto said: That style they put the cooling fins toward the engine fan. There should be a hole in the shroud that the body drops into. The fins are not really long enough for free air cooling. Then this style is perhaps created for a specific engine or location? I just want it to retrofit an engine without any specific place for it. I still think that this is a bad design. Made a rubber bottom for it and will add a dedicated ground for it, this way solving all problems. Edited April 13, 2022 by formariz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 27,601 #9 Posted April 13, 2022 4 minutes ago, formariz said: Then this style is perhaps created for a specific engine or location Yes that one would be for the later style engines, like a Magnum for example. The shroud will have a hole cut in it so that the cooling fins face toward the engine fan. The constant air from the fan cools the regulator. Earlier free air cooling regulators look like this. https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Regulator-Tractor-8HP-24HP-Alternators/dp/B07H3NKCC7/ref=asc_df_B07H3NKCC7/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=344022366619&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17961595034682606773&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019452&hvtargid=pla-728856743186&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70731225593&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=344022366619&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17961595034682606773&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019452&hvtargid=pla-728856743186 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,235 #10 Posted April 13, 2022 1 hour ago, Achto said: That style they put the cooling fins toward the engine fan. There should be a hole in the shroud that the body drops into. The fins are not really long enough for free air cooling. 45 minutes ago, Achto said: Earlier free air cooling regulators look like this. A VR needs substantial cooling. The short-fin versions will prematurely fail if not placed where the get adequate airflow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
clueless 3,002 #11 Posted April 13, 2022 I think it comes down to what engine you are wanting to put it on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,741 #12 Posted April 14, 2022 My D200 that I have had for several years some PO put one of the small regulators mounted to the inside of the hood stand. Hasn't failed yet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pacer 3,173 #13 Posted April 14, 2022 34 minutes ago, pfrederi said: D200 that I have had for several years some PO put one of the small regulators mounted to the inside of the hood stand. Same here, I presently have 3 on the "Big D's" and they are all mounted as @pfrederi describes ---- but, they are of the type shown by @Achto And, with the D's having an ammeter I have had to replace 2-3 of them in crispy critter condition --- I now have all my D's set up with a Voltmeter ! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites