Axle seal leak still going on

[ANTPER 207]

Hi Folks

I did my rear axle seal replacement on 310-08  8 speed. Its still leaking. I sanded the shaft down, lubed the shaft and used a plastic cone to tap it in. No play in the shaft. Figured hey good to go.

Drove it around and same leak. Another member recommend double sealing as the original seal might have wore a grove in shaft over the years. Said to just install another seal in front of it as I do have enough space to fit another seal in that bore. I'm gonna give that a try and keep you posted. If anyone else can recommend something fire away. Thank you all.

[rmaynard 15,594]

Unless you somehow damaged the new seal, you should not be leaking unless the axle is damaged, or the bearing is worn. A single seal should seal it. The axle would have to be quite worn to allow a new seal to leak. How did your check for bearing play?

[OutdoorEnvy 1,565]

Yeah @Maynard has it with checking bearing play would be the next culprit.  Also that the seal is relatively straight, not pushed in more on one side than the other.  That can stretch or twist it a little.  Also that the seal was on the correct direction.  For oils the lip and cavity area should be on the side with the liquid.  Flat side on the outside.    

[roadapples 6,983]

I always tape over the keyway. Seals are easy to nick...

[JoeM 7,874]

6 hours ago, ANTPER said:

just install another seal in front of it as I do have enough space to fit another seal in that bore

If the bearing is good. 

It may solve the problem. The axle have been running a long time, imperfections and wear can be hard to see. I rarely sand a seal area unless there are extremely visible defects. Sanding can remove metal and introduce scrates. Just clean with parts cleaner. If you have to sand 180 grit and finer. 

Double sealing was a old trick in the underground mining business for adverse conditions and prior to the introduction of modern cat seals. Especially in the case of worn rotating parts. 

I would just tap the existing seal in deeper first though, and if you do add another seal put grease between the the two seals. Enough to just fill the seal area don't over fill.  It will help lube the outer seal and prolong wear. 

 

One other thing I have seen on the some gear drives. Trying to remember but that is a fairly thin (small diameter) seal that is not real forgiving. I have seen the rubber housing types not not seal as well as compared to the metal housing ones. Make sure your using a quality seal like the SKF brand. 

[ANTPER 207]

13 hours ago, JoeM said:

If the bearing is good. 

It may solve the problem. The axle have been running a long time, imperfections and wear can be hard to see. I rarely sand a seal area unless there are extremely visible defects. Sanding can remove metal and introduce scrates. Just clean with parts cleaner. If you have to sand 180 grit and finer. 

Double sealing was a old trick in the underground mining business for adverse conditions and prior to the introduction of modern cat seals. Especially in the case of worn rotating parts. 

I would just tap the existing seal in deeper first though, and if you do add another seal put grease between the the two seals. Enough to just fill the seal area don't over fill.  It will help lube the outer seal and prolong wear. 

 

One other thing I have seen on the some gear drives. Trying to remember but that is a fairly thin (small diameter) seal that is not real forgiving. I have seen the rubber housing types not not seal as well as compared to the metal housing ones. Make sure your using a quality seal like the SKF brand. 

 I could swear the old seal I removed was in much deeper than I have my newest one install but didnt wanna beat on it much more than I did. It is sitting below the edge of the axle bore. I'll give a whirl with second seal. Thanks.

[Jrain 276]

If the seal is not leaking when the tractor is parked and only leaking when the axles are in motion and your bearing clearance falls within spec , then you have a wicking condition going on from centrifugal  force ,this is not from the seal it self ,but from inclusions or a scratched surface on your axle  , to correct this I would not sand the axle , the axle is already scorned and the more material you take away will induce more wicking , the way to correct a wicking issue is to coat the sealing area on the axle with Plumbers Teflon paste ,this will fill the inclusion and or scratches and stop the capillary wicking . 

[AHS 1,443]

On 4/12/2022 at 12:19 AM, roadapples said:

I always tape over the keyway. Seals are easy to nick...

I taped over the key way with scotch tape (the thinnest I could find!) and the seal just kept pushing the tape back. Guess it was a tight seal! I took every precaution yesterday in replacing my B80 seal, (1”) 100863.  Went for a stick pick up ride, and no leaks!😀

[ANTPER 207]

I didnt sand the seal area where it sits. I took very fine paper to clean out any issues in the key way area as I was sliding the seal down the shaft. Can't tell if its leaking while running but it does leak when I shut it off and park it

[Jrain 276]

The other thing that can happen when installing a seal is that the garter spring on the inside of the seal lip can get knocked off its lip as you knock the seal in to position , the spring it what keeps the pressure on the sealing lip of the seal , what I do  before installing any seal with a garter spring is  fill  the entire inside of the seal with axle grease . it is the same theory as using grease on a gasket to keep it in place when mating two parts.