79361 snowblower on 520H

[Chestnut 315]

I decided to do a general overall check on my 79361 two stage snowblower after I replaced an auger bearing. Read over quite a few threads about this model snowblower so I know some of the issues. 

Found a few other issues I’m going to deal with before putting it away for the summer.

 

Front to back

 

Worm gearbox is not leaking and turns smooth. Topped off with 75W-90 I had on the shelf. Started to overflow the fill hole almost immediately. A side note. There was grease vs. oil commentary on another thread about the gearboxes. A Simplicity I own recommends Lubriplate GR132 for the worm gear. Seems like both light grease or oil will work, but the grease is less prone to leakage. A note of caution though. The input shaft seal had failed on the Simplicity before I bought it, water leaked in and caused the bushing to spin, ruining the housing. Housing is NLA, but fortunately I was able to find a good used one.

 

Impeller shows some rock damage. Two of the three blades are bent. I’m planning to straighten as well as I can before investing $400+ on a new one (or hunting for used). If I need to take the auger assembly out, is it as easy as removing the housing end plates, removing the sprocket, and pulling?

 

The plastic rubbing block is worn, but there’s still enough adjustment to take out the slack. The decision over building a new Nylon or Delrin block or an idler wheel gets postponed.

 

The chain itself seems to be stretched or worn enough so it sometimes rides up on the end of the sprocket tooth causing noise and vibration. Anyone have thoughts about O-ring chain vs. generic #40? Seems like the generic would do the job if kept lubed and is only about 1/10 the cost. Rhetorical question, I bought 10ft of generic chain. Hints on replacing the chain? Is it easier to just remove the right angle drive, assemble the chain on the bench, and then install? Or easier to split the old chain and connect the new one in place?

 

Right angle drive seems smooth and no leaks. I just plan to check the oil and let it be.

 

The drive belt is a bit of a mystery. It’s not a kevlar wrapped belt as I would expect. I can barely read anything on the belt, but it appears to be a 64”, 1/2 belt. It works fine with the snowblower down, but the idlers interfere when the snowblower is raised. Guard/bracket on one idler hits the other idler. I bought a 65 inch Kevlar wrapped belt and it’s worse. There was a 64" 5/8 belt in the parts stash and that was too long as well. Going back to trade it for a shorter belt tomorrow. Did some of these take a shorter belt? I'm planning to try a 62 or 63 inch 5/8 Kevlar wrapped belt.

 

[8ntruck 6,993]

The chain is not stretched, as roller chains wear at the pivots rather than stretch.  The cumulative wear in the pivot points makes it seem that the chain has stretched. 

 

You should take a look at the sprocket teeth for wear.  If they are worn, they will not play well with the new chain and you might still see the chain jumping the teeth.

 

Standard chain kept properly lubricated will give you a good length of service.

 

Good luck and have fun. 

[peter lena 8,589]

@Chestnut  referring to your auger bends , found  2 , 12 - 16 inch adjustable wrenches  working on the same bend in  OPOSET DIRSCTIONS , get it done . work  just on the edges , seams to get it done easier. done this on other used units I  picked up . love lubriplate  lubricants , really stand up , also recommend  something with a polyurea , recovering rating . would also replace that chain with new , and use specific chain lubricant on all related contact spots. you have many areas to make gains on , try and verify how it moves and functions , thats where I found my best  go to improvement spots . pete  

[Chestnut 315]

On 4/8/2022 at 9:05 AM, peter lena said:

@Chestnut  referring to your auger bends , found  2 , 12 - 16 inch adjustable wrenches  working on the same bend in  OPOSET DIRSCTIONS , get it done . work  just on the edges , 

@peter lenaThanks for the tip.

Its been a while but I'm still working on it. I had already started with an adjustable wrench working on the worst of the bends. Pretty good results right off the bat but got distracted on other projects and other tasks on this project. 

[Chestnut 315]

 

On 4/7/2022 at 8:50 PM, Chestnut said:

he drive belt is a bit of a mystery.

I think I finally got this sorted out but just wanted to check. I read in another post between @JCM and @ebinmaine that the belt was 5/8",  64.5" long. The snowblower had a 1/2" belt about that length, but I noticed in the raised position the small guard on the reverse idler was hitting the fixed idler and actually had little slots worn into it. The local tractor box store has the belts in 1" increments so I got a 65" belt. Way to long!? Went back and exchanged for a 62". Still not right. Then I noticed the second hole and moved the fixed idler to the forward hole in the bracket. Now 62" is way too short. Back to the store and try a 64. Can't quite get it on so back to get the original 65" belt. It's on but has a lot of slack when the snowblower is raised. Is this correct? Seems to spin fine with the snowblower down. Was this a design feature to stop the snowblower without disengaging the PTO when raising to reverse?

Photo with the guards off is with snowblower down, guards on shows the slack with snowblower raised.

Don't remember the PO's name, think it was Macgyver.

 

[WHX?? 48,801]

Your belt is routed wrong and that idler may not be installed right. Check the manual. This is what it should look like.

Edited April 18, 2022 by WHX??

[ebinmaine 67,328]

8 hours ago, Chestnut said:

Don't remember the PO's name, think it was Macgyver

Always got a kick outta the way he'd be able to make pretty much anything out of cotton balls and rubbing alcohol. 

 

[Chestnut 315]

8 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Your belt is routed wrong and that idler may not be installed right. Check the manual. This is what it should look like.

Thanks. I think the idler is installed wrong. No way I could pull the idler to that position.

[WHX?? 48,801]

Gotta be... other best pic I got without pulling guards. This may not be correct as it was when it was new to me and before I got to set it up proper. 

 

Manual  and IPL incase you no have.... 

3318-459_1996-2000_44in_Snowthrower_IPL.pdf 3318-826 1996-1998 44in Snowthrower OM.pdf

Edited April 18, 2022 by WHX??

[peter lena 8,589]

@Chestnut  ,  another thing on that drive set up , adjust chain to that auger drive and use specific chain and open gear lubricant on all related areas , that has an anti sling / polyurea make up made for that area . if its rusty , lubricate it ,and verify / function . thats  a base line on my set up for just about anything , keep it oily, pete 

[Chestnut 315]

24 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Chestnut  ,  another thing on that drive set up , adjust chain to that auger drive and use specific chain and open gear lubricant on all related areas , that has an anti sling / polyurea make up made for that area . if its rusty , lubricate it ,and verify / function . thats  a base line on my set up for just about anything , keep it oily, pete 

Thanks,

I bought a new chain and will install before getting it going again in the fall. I adjusted the old one but has a couple of links that don't engage the sprocket smoothly.

[Chestnut 315]

48 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Gotta be... other best pic I got without pulling guards. This may not be correct as it was when it was new to me and before I got to set it up proper. 

 

 

Manual  and IPL incase you no have.... 

3318-459_1996-2000_44in_Snowthrower_IPL.pdf 146.09 kB · 0 downloads 3318-826 1996-1998 44in Snowthrower OM.pdf 762.31 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks for the additional photo and manuals. I already had manuals but the belt routing completely escaped me. I haven't been out to look at it this morning but I need to see whether it has the right spring on the idler.I didn't try pulling the idler back as far as yours because it didn't gain me anything with the belt routed wrong. Hope it's the right spring. No longer available and not a common size. Another thread gives the length at about 14.5 inches long. 

[peter lena 8,589]

@Chestnut  that chain connection should be seamless ,possible wrong size or too, long / short , did you match up chain # ? , there is also a slide adjustment point to that sprocket / chain fit . do you have a chain break?  you can easily pull on that belt drive connection and move related , sprocket to auger set up . good luck with it , pete

[Chestnut 315]

6 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Chestnut  that chain connection should be seamless ,possible wrong size or too, long / short , did you match up chain # ? , there is also a slide adjustment point to that sprocket / chain fit . do you have a chain break?  you can easily pull on that belt drive connection and move related , sprocket to auger set up . good luck with it , pete

Thanks.

I just got a 10 foot length of #40 roller and will set it to same number of links as the original. I pulled the rubbing block to check and it's worn but it has enough adjustment to snug the chain. Chain runs smooth except for a link or two that don't seem to mesh smoothly on the drive sprocket. No chain break. I'll order one, but have too many other projects going to do it now anyway. All the summer tractors and other summer implements are ahead of it in the honeydo list.

[peter lena 8,589]

@Chestnut is that chain issue , the connection link ?  maybe its the wrong one / type , hope you get it  corrected .,pete

[Chestnut 315]

21 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Your belt is routed wrong and that idler may not be installed right. Check the manual. This is what it should look like.

 

Thanks again for the hint. Idler was fine. Belt was just routed wrong. 

 

 

 

10 hours ago, peter lena said:

@Chestnut  that chain connection should be seamless ,possible wrong size or too, long / short , did you match up chain # ? , there is also a slide adjustment point to that sprocket / chain fit . do you have a chain break?  you can easily pull on that belt drive connection and move related , sprocket to auger set up . good luck with it , pete

I think you are correct. One of the links in the old chain looks slightly longer than the others. Doesn't look like a master link, but I'll address the situation before it goes back to work. PO let the chain get pretty rusty. I may see how it cleans up and make a decision about replacing the whole chain with the new one I bought or just the one link. The new chain didn't cost too much so I'll probably just go that route.

Good catch. Thanks for the tip. 

[lynnmor 7,302]

That chain is ready to let go, needs an immediate replacement.  The sprockets are spent as well, putting new chain on worn sprockets will cause rapid wear.  With all new parts and applying chain oil after every use, the system will last indefinitely,  The only serious wear item is the adjustment block, it has been addressed in other posts several times.