rmaynard 15,458 #26 Posted July 18, 2022 I'm probably going poke the hornets nest again, but I have always used straight 30W, non-detergent oil year round in all of my single-cylinder, unfiltered engines. That includes the Wheel Horses, lawn mowers, snow blowers, tillers, etc. When I was a kid in the 50's & 60's I can remember my father buying straight Sinclair 30W oil and keeping it on a shelf in his garage. I liked looking at his collection of cans because they had dinosaurs on them. Back then, I think detergent oils were just being introduced to consumers. My father was always of the school of thought that you don't mess with a good thing. I guess I'm the same way. Anyway, lots of people refer to Brian Miller's "gardentractorpullingtips.com" He has probably the most comprehensive site on the internet for Kohler engines. Though I am not a fan of the man personally, I do respect his knowledge when it comes to engines. Here is what Brian says about detergent vs. non-detergent oil (http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/engine.htm#oil) Motor oil technology have changed a lot since Kohler (and many other small engine manufacturers) published their oil recommendations 40+ years ago. In an older or freshly rebuilt air-cooled, lawn and garden engine with splash lubrication or if it has an unfiltered oiling system with no oil pump and/or no oil filter is used, it's best to use SAE 30 weight non-detergent motor oil. Non-detergent oil allow any impurities in the oil to settle to the bottom of the oil pan. Detergent oils suspends any impurities so the oil filter can better filter it. Detergent oils should be used only in engines with an oil filter. If an engine doesn't have an oil filter, it's best to use non-detergent oil for long engine life. If an engine is used during wintertime, and being there are no multi-weight or synthetic non-detergent oils available, the only option is the use 10W30 or 10W40 motor oils so the engine will crank over easy in cold weather to start fast. And be sure to change the oil when it's hot on a regular basis. Fresh oil is cheaper than an engine or engine rebuild. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 67,487 #27 Posted July 18, 2022 10 minutes ago, rmaynard said: Non-detergent oil allow any impurities in the oil to settle to the bottom of the oil pan. Detergent oils suspends any impurities so the oil filter can better filter it. Again with the not trying to poke The hornet's nest... I'm not even anything close to being an oil expert. What I've quoted above is exactly the reason why I have read TO use detergent oil. Keep the dirt in the oil and DON'T let it settle to the bottom of the pan. Change the oil when you're supposed to change the oil and you'll never have an engine that fills up with dirt..... 13 minutes ago, rmaynard said: be sure to change the oil ***** on a regular basis This I believe is BY FAR the most important. One way or the other. Detergent or non detergent. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ineedanother 1,369 #28 Posted July 18, 2022 I prefer multi-weight detergent oil changed at regular intervals, either based solely on age, or hours of use with consideration given to operating conditions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,625 #29 Posted July 18, 2022 @ebinmaine agree with you on oils , https://www.bing.com/search?q=3%2f8+npt+magnetic+drain+plug&qs=RI&pq=%2f+npt+magnetic+drain+plug&sc=6- also add what ever size you need to your related gear unit , my hot oil changes look very thorough pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 25,557 #30 Posted July 18, 2022 I keep looking for the oil drain plug on my two E 141’s and can’t find them… On my C105 I use Rotella T1 sae 30. Change Spring & Fall… It works. 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
