312-8 with a nice caramel vat

[Craig-906 26]

I had purchased a 312-8 last fall, my very first Wheel Horse. It runs fine, transmission works like a champ. The problem is I noticed this spring the transmission fluid is the color/consistency of caramel. Water I suspect. So now I know I need to flush and drain the existing fluid and replace it with new.

 

My question is can I do this (flush) without to much hassle of tearing the tractor apart? I have no leaks.

 

My question is can I drain the existing fluid, add 2 quarts of either ATF or diesel fuel and take a few laps around the yard, then drain and replace with new gear oil, or should I drain and add new gear oil, take a few lapse then drain and replace again with fresh gear oil?

 

[ebinmaine 67,590]

No need to disassemble the tractor. 

There's a drain on the BOTTOM of the transmission near the back. 

Raise the front as much as you can safely do so. This gets the fluid past a bump in the floor of the transmission. 

 

Use the diesel or K1. 

 

Flush. Likely twice. 

 

Add the 2 qts of gear oil. 

 

Change the shifter boot too.  

 

Watch for leaking seals. Diesel will really show them off.  

[stevasaurus 22,764]

I would not flush with ATF...use 2 qts of diesel.  Do not drive it around, put the rear end on blocks and run the horse like that.  Reason, the diesel is thinner and it could leak through the seals...that would leave streaks in your lawn.  Run the horse on blocks in all gears a total of 30 minutes and drain.  If fairly clean, add 90 wt (2qts), or flush one more time.  Lift your front up enough when draining to do a complete drain.

[Craig-906 26]

Thanks for the input, I'll do this and report back.

[peter lena 8,634]

@Craig-906  agree with others on the drain and flush , recommendation . do you have any drivable roads near by , like a closed cul de sac housing area?  think the more time on the transitional flushing is best and very thorough . also stop and use every gear and hi / lo range on the road time . also thoroughly lubricate all related linkage points , make the rust run out , washer firm up and grease sloppy linkage ends . especially note smooth clutch engagement point , no jumping or sudden grabs . keep an eye on that oil color , over time and use , it will pick up more debris . also a good time to lubricate the chassis . pete

[peter lena 8,634]

@johnnymag3 , that transmission service and related linkage points is a regular thing for me, almost  a reflex move , look over everything , never wait for a problem , thats only me , another thing I add to that , is looking over how my modifications are standing up , when I correct a nagging issue , its gone , I  look at intended function , then detail problem away , detail every step , or it will happen again . if its wiring , add bolt on electrical lugs , at related bolt areas , now you have a solid ground go to , from battery cable ground bolt , change wire routing , for tight bend areas , cable wrap them / anti chafe , use cable hangers . also often add heim joints to linkage rods , 3/8 x 24 die nut , makes rod ends solid smooth , why not ? anything I  suggest , is in regular reliable use on my horses . that latest fuel check valve set up ?  instant starts , no leaks , no drain back, same set ups on 3 horses . solid running , pete 

[Craig-906 26]

I ended up flushing with K1 twice, probably could have done it a third time. I added the recommended 2 quarts of gear oil (80w-90 GL5).

 

Enjoy the video.

 

Runs like a champ.

 

might do another flush at the end of season.

 

Any idea where I can get a shifter boot? I’m not to worried as I store her inside, but want to keep dust and debris out.

 

 

Edited April 5, 2022 by Craig-906

[peter lena 8,634]

@Craig-906  https://www.amazon.com/Warehouse-WHEEL-HORSE-SHIFTER-HF983-1754373460/dp/B01L13EIBG/ref=sr_1_ shifter boots on line , and probably  on this site , shop around . I use a razor blade to cut off the boot , and use grease on the shifter rod for easy installation, also agree with the next flushing of the trans . when you initially drain/ flush out a unit , that the stuff on top of the real crud , flushed out mine a number of times before it stayed clean , now I  do it every other year . glad you are on board , ask away , pete    

[ebinmaine 67,590]

1 hour ago, Craig-906 said:

Any idea where I can get a shifter boot?

 

Our own vendor, Wheelhorse Parts and More, sells them. 

Give the $$ to them and "keep it local". 

 

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/wheel-horse-3577-shifter-boot/

 

 

55 minutes ago, peter lena said:

agree with the next flushing of the trans . when you initially drain/ flush out a unit , that the stuff on top of the real crud

 

Absolutely agree with Pete. 

 

If you thought:

1 hour ago, Craig-906 said:

twice, probably could have done it a third time

 

It certainly should be done again after the season's passed.  

 

 

[peter lena 8,634]

@  craig - 906 , you are not draining it from the right spot ! . look on the bottom corner of the trans , just under your drain spot , there is a  recessed Allen plug right there , often plugged with dirt , that is your lowest drain spot . https://www.bing.com/images/search?hist=0&ajaxserp=0 , look for it and find it , that gets the crud out , pete

[Craig-906 26]

14 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@  craig - 906 , you are not draining it from the right spot ! . look on the bottom corner of the trans , just under your drain spot , there is a  recessed Allen plug right there , often plugged with dirt , that is your lowest drain spot . https://www.bing.com/images/search?hist=0&ajaxserp=0 , look for it and find it , that gets the crud out , pete

I did find that later and used that drain as well.  thank you though.