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briankd

front mule drive

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briankd

anyone have a break down or a picture of the front mule drive? tore mine apart couple years ago there are some spacers and which pulley goes where have a v pulley and flat pully and couple spacers . mine came off my c120 and i'm putting it on my  c145 .

the pulleys like new still have the part number wrote on them but the brg's was ruff i pulled the seals out and greased them now they like new 

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953 nut

705424970_Screenshot(28).png.3683b9cb5f4057d0b0019bc7d0f501fe.png

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Handy Don
34 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

705424970_Screenshot(28).png.3683b9cb5f4057d0b0019bc7d0f501fe.png

V pulley closer to tractor

U pulley closer to wheel

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briankd
43 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

705424970_Screenshot(28).png.3683b9cb5f4057d0b0019bc7d0f501fe.png

 

7 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

V pulley closer to tractor

U pulley closer to wheel

 

thanks guy's 

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roadapples

The 2 spacers are different lengths. Pulleys should be about 1/8" apart...

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tunahead72
8 hours ago, roadapples said:

... Pulleys should be about 1/8" apart...

 

That sounds like an excellent way to remember which one goes where (instead of asking here every time I forget).  So, does that mean the longer one goes in between the two pulleys?

 

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squonk
8 minutes ago, tunahead72 said:

 

That sounds like an excellent way to remember which one goes where (instead of asking here every time I forget).  So, does that mean the longer one goes in between the two pulleys?

 

Yes. If you mix them up the pulleys will rub together and you'll know right away anyway.

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peter lena

@briankd did I just read where you re greased those  mule bearings ? what did you use for grease ?   typically those 6203 bearings  , used in both the mule and spindle bearings , are used in  CIELING FANS , hardly a difficult  job. but when you spin that over a thousand rpm under a directional load with unknown lubricant specs , you get a whining noisy bearing.  hope you  used the lucas heavy duty or lucas red grease . and that you cleaned put the original lubricant , before re greasing . my 3 decks work without whining noise   and are solid and smooth . also lubricate any related linkage points , like pto cone needle bearing , wipe out existing grease , just a light coat of hi temp , anti sling grease , will do , any excess will get to clutch face , don't let that happen . lubricate and washer firm up that pto lever connection , have an upgrade on that if interested . pete 

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briankd
9 hours ago, peter lena said:

@briankd did I just read where you re greased those  mule bearings ? what did you use for grease ?   typically those 6203 bearings  , used in both the mule and spindle bearings , are used in  CIELING FANS , hardly a difficult  job. but when you spin that over a thousand rpm under a directional load with unknown lubricant specs , you get a whining noisy bearing.  hope you  used the lucas heavy duty or lucas red grease . and that you cleaned put the original lubricant , before re greasing . my 3 decks work without whining noise   and are solid and smooth . also lubricate any related linkage points , like pto cone needle bearing , wipe out existing grease , just a light coat of hi temp , anti sling grease , will do , any excess will get to clutch face , don't let that happen . lubricate and washer firm up that pto lever connection , have an upgrade on that if interested . pete 

 

i used shell e.p. grease . they was dry will see what happens . they look the same pulley as what my c120 has on the drive belt  tensioner pully and used this grease i have on it 2 year ago and it is fine . yes I took off pto and greased it also. yea if you put too much in there it will sling it .  what is the upgrade ? 

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peter lena

@briankd  usually grease failure , and noisy bearings , just a good time to ,to  insure that its all working like it should , sounds like you have it covered , pete 

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peter lena

@briankd  added washers , both metal and teflon on the pto lever start end , on the battery rail mount , next to battery , ist picture , usually about 3/8 to 7/16 " to make it smooth and solid , other additions , heim joint on pto rod end, battery tender plug in point , note battery cable on engine corner to frame , that comes from the battery ground bolt point on  that pto lever start frame. that increases the grounding to  rectifier and headlights . just add wire to that engine / frame point .just a good spot to improve a number of areas . pete  

 

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briankd
23 hours ago, peter lena said:

@briankd  added washers , both metal and teflon on the pto lever start end , on the battery rail mount , next to battery , ist picture , usually about 3/8 to 7/16 " to make it smooth and solid , other additions , heim joint on pto rod end, battery tender plug in point , note battery cable on engine corner to frame , that comes from the battery ground bolt point on  that pto lever start frame. that increases the grounding to  rectifier and headlights . just add wire to that engine / frame point .just a good spot to improve a number of areas . pete  

 

 

thanks I done all the ground's as you have listed originally was ground running to the console .I have a battery tender and was also thinking about mounting it permanent. hate when you need to use it after sits or in the winter and barely cranks and have to put the charger on it  . thanks for the info

Brian

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peter lena

@briankd  thanks Brian , that entire battery dash ,steering area , is a  density of problems and issues , also a great OPPORTUNITY SPOT , TO CORRECT THAT . that battery tender plug in on the choke cable is simple , and its always there . usually go after function issues , and enhance that . that pto control rod , was a problem , my 3 horses have the same set up , experiment on correction , then apply it to similar set up. first photo , notice the elastic lock nut ? steering column 2 bolt flange bearing . that ground from battery ground bolt point , connects to , frame / engine , cooling tins rectifier mount bolts , and on to headlights . ask me how that works. added spring pull on , throttle / choke cables , to assist closing , small light springs , super lube cables and related lever points , makes those cables work with ease. just scratching surface with , stuff that I have come to , if you were to make a problem turn into a smooth reliable set up , isn't  that what you want ?  greasy  pete 

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peter lena

@briankd   often when hunting out a wiring / ground issue , I  use these .https://www.amazon.com/KAIWEETS-Electrical-Alligator-Connection-Experiment/ . lots  of variations on the net , good pricing too . want to verify a ground run ? go from a known  point , like battery cable bolt point to , end of intended gain , like ignition rectifier or headlights . amperage change will verify what going on . these clips are also great on the typical melted wire mess . also use contractor grade connectors , on my  grounding assurance areas . like bolt on electrical  lugs, the 3/8 "  base hole lets you go to engine / frame , bolt point, add serrated washers and dielectric grease, don,t screw around with it , kill it . zap pete  

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briankd

thanks everyone i got it back together today . this been laying around my shed last 3 years it came off my C120 it got painted when I painted it . now this will go on my C 145 auto with the 48" deck20220331_175940.jpg.6d2885d7609a6b0fa5679617b60c01c2.jpg675322500_20220331_180007(1).jpg.7c383d4e57fed4f08a6094ccbb96d4f5.jpg

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953 nut
On 3/29/2022 at 9:35 AM, squonk said:

Yes. If you mix them up the pulleys will rub together and you'll know right away anyway.

:scared-shocked:            Sparks will fly and the sound is defining.     :scared-eek:        Please don't try this at home!

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peter lena

@briankd  did you re lubricate those , 6203 bearings? those rubber side shields easily  pocket screwdriver off , wipe out what ever was in there , and finish with a carb cleaner , use lucas  x-tra heavy duty green grease , or similar hi temp anti sling , polyurea grease . don't over pack them. those are the same bearings in the mower deck spindles, all my decks have this set up , no whinny noise , just quiet solid ,smooth . another thing, notice the adjustment lever angles to the upper rod? cut a slot in a piece of plastic water hose , and slid it on the upper rod , between those 2 levers ,to   vertically square  up on the push area , makes it work easier. greasy ,pete     

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