Brockport Bill 1,714 #1 Posted March 26, 2022 sorta simple, silly, question -- but when a hydo or an 8 gear gets milky fluid in a tranny from mositure -- how did the moisture actually get in the tranny -- loose dip stick or what, where, how? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,865 #2 Posted March 26, 2022 Condensation 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,482 #3 Posted March 26, 2022 An 8 speed shifter acts like a wick in wet weather - rain trickles down the lever, by the less than tight fitting boot and says "Hello" to the 90 weight. ALWAYS keep the Horses inside or covered when not in use. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,719 #4 Posted March 26, 2022 @Brockport Bill usually its the cracked rubber shifter boot , regularly check all of mine , also use a vinyl / rubber treatment on it to treat the rubber . always have a spare in my w/h parts , when you start the drainage and flushing on that , or me its typically a 2 times drainage and flush , to really get out the moisture , and debris. do you have a near by empty road or private drive ? i road time the oil , for a heat up and drain , then do a fuel oil or atf fluid refill for the drive / flushing action . then back to lift up the front end of the ground to increase drainage . others will also respond to this , but a thorough drain/ flush is what you want before a fresh 80-90 refill . pete 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,714 #5 Posted March 26, 2022 6 minutes ago, peter lena said: @Brockport Bill usually its the cracked rubber shifter boot , regularly check all of mine , also use a vinyl / rubber treatment on it to treat the rubber . always have a spare in my w/h parts , when you start the drainage and flushing on that , or me its typically a 2 times drainage and flush , to really get out the moisture , and debris. do you have a near by empty road or private drive ? i road time the oil , for a heat up and drain , then do a fuel oil or atf fluid refill for the drive / flushing action . then back to lift up the front end of the ground to increase drainage . others will also respond to this , but a thorough drain/ flush is what you want before a fresh 80-90 refill . pete Pete - I have always enjoyed your comments about the tranny flush routine -- actually i have passed on your knowledge to other WH folks as well --- they routinely comment about having done so and how well it worked ---- and yes, i have a new boot on my 312-8 -- but its always indoors storage so that helps -- Could you clarify the tranny flush for a 8 gear, versus hydro regarding using Kerosene or diesel etc? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brockport Bill 1,714 #6 Posted March 26, 2022 18 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Condensation ahhhh -- makes sense Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,865 #7 Posted March 26, 2022 Do not flush a hydro with anything!!! Just change fluid... 7 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,289 #8 Posted March 26, 2022 I have open a couple of transmissions, all had rust on the inside, the top side more specific. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,719 #9 Posted March 26, 2022 @Brockport Bill have to agree with @pfrederi on the hydro, just change fluid . the 8 gear , works best when its clean oil fluid , usually 80-90 wt . if the oil is warm it drains better ,and will take more debris with it . jacking the front wheels off the ground , about 6" with jack stands will help the drainage . I refill 2 qts of atf oil or diesel fuel , drive it around and use hi/lo range and every gear , you could even fill it at the shifter boot area , that will help clean out the rail shifter . usually 2 , flushes cleans up the debris , then fresh 80-90- gear oil , 2qts. also lubricate related clutch pedal linkage , for easier shifting , replace shift boot . there are related pictures on site of this service , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,932 #10 Posted March 26, 2022 (edited) 3 hours ago, Brockport Bill said: ahhhh -- makes sense Which machine has milky oil? Also, don't flush a hydro, just change fluid. Edited March 26, 2022 by Bill D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,865 #11 Posted March 27, 2022 A hydro filled up to the mark on the dipstick has a very small area not filled with oil. Also no big openings to the outside just a tiny breather in the dipstick (sunstrands). A gear drive is 75% or more air with a big opening for air exchange (gear shift). That is why condensation and thus water contamination is not as big a deal in hydros... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,874 #12 Posted March 27, 2022 12 hours ago, pfrederi said: That is why condensation and thus water contamination is not as big a deal in hydros.. And the inside of the 1100's are painted. A lot less surface area to rust with most of the gearing is under the oil. I know one place people over look when it comes to water in oil..... the original packaging. Back in the day I had an issue with water and it was in the 5 gallon cans we purchased. The cans we stored outside in the weather and the sun would expand the cans. And if it rained there after, the can would slowly draw the water laying on top down inside through the pour spout. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,865 #13 Posted March 27, 2022 15 minutes ago, JoeM said: And the inside of the 1100's are painted. A lot less surface area to rust with most of the gearing is under the oil. I know one place people over look when it comes to water in oil..... the original packaging. Back in the day I had an issue with water and it was in the 5 gallon cans we purchased. The cans we stored outside in the weather and the sun would expand the cans. And if it rained there after, the can would slowly draw the water laying on top down inside through the pour spout. Good Point I forgot Sunstrand transaxles are painted also... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,719 #14 Posted July 20, 2022 @Brockport Bill never did a hydro trans drain / refill, so I can only refer to those that are experienced with it , my regular routine after usage is to , always check trans oil / statis , always add STA BIL to my fuel top off , general kook around , or go after anything that has shown up . the time to look for stuff is when you are running solid , that way you will probably find something out of whack, make sense ? you had no problems , but suddenly started to surge / skip / not charging ? that time period lets you quickly zero in on it , all of mine run / operate the same way , so if anything is off , I am on it , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,482 #15 Posted July 20, 2022 (edited) On 3/26/2022 at 3:27 PM, Brockport Bill said: Could you clarify the tranny flush for a 8 gear Did this 502 4 speed prior to opening it up to change a bad 3rd gear. Same can be done using a complete tractor - drain the oil - elevate the front off the ground a foot or so while draining. 2 quarts of diesel go in with tractor level - run thru all gears and hi-low for about 10 minutes each. Drain and look at what comes out - if still rusty, repeat. Two flushes should do it. Check the 4 seals to see if they leak, as diesel is a lot thinner. Change the seals and the boot if needed... Edited July 20, 2022 by ri702bill 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,719 #16 Posted July 20, 2022 @ri702bill think thats an excellent idea , taking advantage of the situation . have to give that a grease smudge , sign of approval, pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites