857lover 291 #1 Posted March 25, 2022 (edited) so i was doing a service today on my 1267 when i drained the oil it was really white almost like paint but i just assume that means there was a little water in so i drained it down and put some diesel in to flush it out then add new oil but i noticed when i put the diesel in it had a really steady drip from the axel seal how hard is it to replace for someone who’s never tinkered on the inside of a transmission i also have a spare 3 speed to practice on but yeah and if anyone knows of the part number i’d really appreciate that as well and if someone knows what transmission is in my tractor i’d love to know that aswell @danweikert21 @857lover Edited March 25, 2022 by 857lover Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,848 #2 Posted March 25, 2022 It’s not unusual for them to learn a little with diesel since it’s much thinner. Was the area around the seals and axle hubs caked with grease and dirt like it had been leaking the gear oil. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,090 #3 Posted March 25, 2022 If you can wiggle the axle up and down in the housing, you might need bearings. If it’s tight, just a seal. If you haven’t pulled a hub yet, that’ll be the hardest part! here’s a link for seals and bearings in most Wheelhorse transmissions https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/42506-bearing-and-seal-cross-numbers/ 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 9,848 #4 Posted March 25, 2022 If you end up replacing seals DO NOT use a 3 jaw puller on the hubs. They are brittle cast steel. Search for Hub Pullers on here and you will see several ideas. 1 2 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857lover 291 #5 Posted March 25, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, Pullstart said: If you can wiggle the axle up and down in the housing, you might need bearings. If it’s tight, just a seal. If you haven’t pulled a hub yet, that’ll be the hardest part! here’s a link for seals and bearings in most Wheelhorse transmissions https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/42506-bearing-and-seal-cross-numbers/ yep i’ve fought a couple of them before i also have a acetylene torch but yeah we will see i’ll keep you guys informed any videos on other guys doing theese seals Edited March 25, 2022 by 857lover Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjg854 11,474 #6 Posted March 25, 2022 maybe you can find something on youtube 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,753 #7 Posted March 25, 2022 Once the hub is off and the axle has been cleaned up the seal replacement is a snap (presuming good bearings). No fancy high priced tools are needed. To remove the old seal take an awl or sharp punch to make a small hole in the metal ring of the old seal, run a sheet metal screw into the old seal and pull on the screw with pliers or a claw hammer to start it out, once started a straight screwdriver will pry it out. To insert the new seal be sure there are no sharp edges or burrs on the axle and it is as clean as new. Cover the keyway with masking tape that extends over the end of your axle. put a couple of drops of oil on the new seal and slide the seal onto the axle. When it gets to the transaxle be sure the seal is going in straight, I have a piece of 1 1/4 sch 40 PVC pipe with a good square cut end that I use to drive the seal in with, the inside diameter of the pipe is slightly bigger than the axle and will ensure the seal is not wonky or tilted. Some people use the hub as a slide-hammer to set the seal. When you put the hub back on be sure to tighten the set screw to 35 ft/lb with a torque wrench and then tighten the lock nut. A new key and setscrew would be a good idea. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857lover 291 #8 Posted March 26, 2022 so do i even have to open the case to do these seals ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
857lover 291 #9 Posted March 26, 2022 (edited) On 3/25/2022 at 7:53 AM, 953 nut said: Once the hub is off and the axle has been cleaned up the seal replacement is a snap (presuming good bearings). No fancy high priced tools are needed. To remove the old seal take an awl or sharp punch to make a small hole in the metal ring of the old seal, run a sheet metal screw into the old seal and pull on the screw with pliers or a claw hammer to start it out, once started a straight screwdriver will pry it out. To insert the new seal be sure there are no sharp edges or burrs on the axle and it is as clean as new. Cover the keyway with masking tape that extends over the end of your axle. put a couple of drops of oil on the new seal and slide the seal onto the axle. When it gets to the transaxle be sure the seal is going in straight, I have a piece of 1 1/4 sch 40 PVC pipe with a good square cut end that I use to drive the seal in with, the inside diameter of the pipe is slightly bigger than the axle and will ensure the seal is not wonky or tilted. Some people use the hub as a slide-hammer to set the seal. When you put the hub back on be sure to tighten the set screw to 35 ft/lb with a torque wrench and then tighten the lock nut. A new key and setscrew would be a good idea. ok so i’m having a hard time finding a part number for my six speed with 1-1/8 axels i see on pull starts link i see that chart but i saw a part number for a 1 inch but not 1-1/8 unless i’m blind i found it guys i guess i am blind thank you all Edited March 26, 2022 by 857lover 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jrain 276 #10 Posted March 26, 2022 4 hours ago, 857lover said: ok so i’m having a hard time finding a part number for my six speed with 1-1/8 axels i see on pull starts link i see that chart but i saw a part number for a 1 inch but not 1-1/8 unless i’m blind i found it guys i guess i am blind thank you all SKF part number 11050 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
