trying to get one going

[Skwerl58 704]

I picked up a 70 GT-14 and a 1054 this winter and started checking them over today. I pulled the spark plugs and added about a tablespoon of Marvel mystery oil into the cylinder. Also washed them off and lubed the choke and throttle cables. The GT 14 cables came free and were working but the 1054 were being stubborn. My next move is to drain the old gas from the GT 14 and replace the fuel line, filter and spark plug. The oil is dirty but full, should I change the oil before I attempt to start it or get it going and warm the oil to drain? After I get it running I will move on to the hydro trouble shooting, brake and then tires.

[Handy Don 12,218]

For new to me engines, if turning it over by hand doesn't reveal any issues, and there is sufficient oil, and the oil doesn't have water or other visible particles/rust/contamination, I'll run it for a short while while testing the transmission as well as the engine. Changing the oil now and then finding you need to get into the engine and drain it out is a waste of oil (and if it's a pressure oil tractor, a waste of a filter). Once I know it's ready to keep the oil, I'll change it.

[JoeM 7,874]

If you have any doubt about the quality of the oil that is in those engines, It is only a two quart deal. Get some regular Wally world 10w-30 and then run it. $5

Put the good stuff in later. 

[Retired Wrencher 5,455]

On these old engines they need help if they're tired, so I started using this additive in the oil with good results so far. Read up on it. Take your time and enjoy them.

Edited March 23, 2022 by Retierd Wrencher

[953 nut 55,228]

10 hours ago, Skwerl58 said:

After I get it running I will move on to the hydro trouble shooting, brake and then tires.

Sounds like a good plan. The Sundstrand hydro has no external mechanical brakes, when the motion control is moved to neutral the tractor stops. There is an internal parking brake but they are usually no longer working because previous owners didn't come to a full stop before setting the brake.

10 hours ago, Skwerl58 said:

lubed the choke and throttle cables. The GT 14 cables came free and were working but the 1054 were being stubborn.

The choke cable looks a bit long anyway.  Your best bet may be to take both of the cables off and give them a good long soaking bath in some deasil fuel while work progresses on the GT-14. 

[peter lena 8,625]

@Skwerl58 , read your attempted cable recovery , I use  teflon based  super lube with very good results , another thing you might try  is after  mounting the cables back in mount point , hook the end pull point up to a  small  firm extension spring , that will let you  verify its function with added lubricant  on your movement pull. like having a 3rd arm helping your cable return . have this set up om my 3 horses , on the cable end to lever point . makes cables work like butter .  https://www.bing.com/search?FORM=UP97DF&PC=UP97&q=smal+alligator+clip+test+wires  all my cables have this  small spring pull assist , with a lubricant added , they work without effort , just an idea , pete

[peter lena 8,625]

@Skwerl58  sorry , this was my intended , lubricant and spring assist cable pull  set up , pete

 

[oliver2-44 9,749]

3 hours ago, JoeM said:

If you have any doubt about the quality of the oil that is in those engines, It is only a two quart deal. Get some regular Wally world 10w-30 and then run it. $5

Put the good stuff in later. 

Good way to help clean out an engine if it hasn't had an oil change in a long time. 

Edited March 23, 2022 by oliver2-44

[peter lena 8,625]

@ oliver 2-44, agree with the long time oil drain , personally , I  don't understand how you can do that . pointed that out to a guy that was hoping to sell an old horse , black oil was barely on the stick, trans was full of water, tires were shot seat was gone , battery dead , did not seam to care , said it was a wheel horse ,  emphasis on " was a wheel horse , "  not for me , pete