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By 953 nut
I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings.
Hope this is helpful.
Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid.
Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start.
Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator.
We have uncovered a shortcoming in the factory wiring diagrams for S/G battery ignition systems with a four terminal voltage regulator. The wire from the regulator "Gen" terminal to the S/G "A" terminal was omitted. This drawing should clear that up.
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By illinibrew
I have been into garden tractors for a few years. Wanted to learn about small engines and buying an old sear suburban was cheaper than the class at the local community college. Just got a 1980 C85 (with a johnny bucket on it).
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By richm1386
Quick story and a couple of questions concerning replacing the ignition coil on my '89 416-8 with Onan P216 engine.
So I got this old tractor from my Dad when he replaced it and it was running okay until a few weeks ago. Was picking up sticks and hauling them out to the wood pile when I idled down the tractor and then it stalled out (which happens all the time.) I tried starting again and it would not turn over. The starter would go and go but no ignition. I spent a lot of time on these forums and found some really good info including the service manual. I used that diagnose the problem and figured out the coil was bad. I ordered a new off brand coil and condenser from Amazon for $40 swapped them in last night and it fired almost immediately. Plus since I had taken the shroud off and disconnected the throttle cable it was idling well at very low throttle. I've still got to reassemble everything properly but it seems like the coil was the culprit.
That said I've got a couple questions.
1. Anybody have any luck with non-Onan coils?The one I got from Amazon seems well made but it is literally some no name part. I figured for $40 it was worth a shot.
2. Does it matter which spark plug attaches to which plug on the coil? I forgot to take a photo before I disassembled.
3. Could a failing coil cause very hard starts and stalling at low idle? I'm asking because as I said above the tractor has been very hard to start for years. Almost always needed to choke it. It would also stall out if you idled down nearly every time. Just the brief testing with the new coil that I've done, both of these issues seem much better. Also I used my Dad's replacement (early '90s 416-h with same engine) for this tractor while working on mine and it started and idled very easily. It looks like it might have a replacement coil as well. Just wondering.
Thanks all.
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By tntatro
The stator and flywheel on this engine are different than others I have worked on so far. The stator is smaller in diameter and has a wire that runs out to a part that looks like an ignition coil but has no plug wire. I am wondering what it is and how do I wire it?
I'm not 100% positive that I put it back in the same spot it came but I think I did. I gapped it at .020" from the bump that sticks out on the flywheel, it is magnetized.
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By Canaaner
Ran fine all summer, no blows the dash fuse (10 A) once it's started. Will run momentarily then, fuse blows and nothing. Replaced fuse, ran for a minute then fuse blew again. Any help?
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