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41chevy

Trans needle bearing replacement

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41chevy

I posted yesterday about a leaking 1 1/8” axle seal on a 1976 B 80 8 speed trans. From the reply’s it sounds like I need to split the cases and replace needle bearings due to some up and down movement with the axle. This will be my first wheel horse trans tear down. According to my owners manual I need 2, 1526 needle bearings and 2, 100443 seals, is that correct? I’d would appreciate your thoughts on anything else I may need and what to look for. Thanks

3C442056-4A17-4A5B-B3E0-7BB854D3B19D.jpeg

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ebinmaine

Those bearings and seals are readily available in lots of different places. A great source would be our own

Wheelhorse Parts and More.  

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WHX??

Fer sure the input & brake shaft seal and a gasket. Perhaps a new shifter boot?

Get her split and some pics and we can see what else is needed. 

This is why we measure a block on a motor build before ordering parts.

Yes Lowell will have every thing you need.

You can buy his kits but he will sell just what is needed.

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/manual-transmissions/

 

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stevasaurus

You should have a #5091 transmission with 1 1/8" axles.  If you do have 1 1/8" axles, those numbers are correct.  They cross over to KOYO B-1816 and SKF 11050.  Videos of the #5091.

 

 

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oldlineman

Don't worry, I did my first one last summer with great help from many folks here. I got my parts from Lowell great service. I replaced all seals and axle needle bearings. You will need a gasket for the case. My problem was broken diff. bolt so while in there did the other changes. Take your time, ask questions as they come up and you will not have a problem. Steve and others have great videos to follow. Bob 

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41chevy

Thanks everyone for your help, Drained the oil and got it on the bench this afternoon, removed the 6 case bolts. I was removing the shifter lock and found it was broken and just 2 threads holding it the case. After looking at my manual I saw that it was SUPPOSE to be a set screw with a locknut. The pic shows what was in it, I tried tapping it out with a small 3 sided chisel, but no luck, I’ll be drilling in the morning. Thx again for the advice.

7D44563D-3E8F-4E70-A1B2-CF6F3A45FDBA.jpeg

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ebinmaine
45 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

set screw

If I remember correctly that's a "half dog point screw". 

They can be had a good hardware stores or McMaster Carr. 

I've likely got a few. 

If you need one lemme know. 

 

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lynnmor

If that wheel bearing is bad they can ruin the axle.  Take photos of the wear surface of the bearing and seal.

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41chevy
21 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

If that wheel bearing is bad they can ruin the axle.  Take photos of the wear surface of the bearing and seal.

Thx I’ll check out and let you know when I get it out.

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stevasaurus

That dog point set screw is case hardened.  Use the correct drill bet for hard metal.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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WHX??

Sorry to hear about the set screw hope you have good luck in getting it out. I have some extra replacements if EB does not. 

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Handy Don
18 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Thanks everyone for your help, Drained the oil and got it on the bench this afternoon, removed the 6 case bolts. I was removing the shifter lock and found it was broken and just 2 threads holding it the case. After looking at my manual I saw that it was SUPPOSE to be a set screw with a locknut. The pic shows what was in it, I tried tapping it out with a small 3 sided chisel, but no luck, I’ll be drilling in the morning. Thx again for the advice.

7D44563D-3E8F-4E70-A1B2-CF6F3A45FDBA.jpeg

Stuff a rag in the shifter hole before you start so you can can and pull out any drill filings, right?

Also, that screw may go in easier than out--and a rag would catch it as it emerged.

Good luck!

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41chevy
On 3/17/2022 at 6:50 PM, lynnmor said:

If that wheel bearing is bad they can ruin the axle.  Take photos of the wear surface of the bearing and seal.

Good evening, I was able to get the broken dog point screw out with a little penetrating oil, carbide drill bit and the easy out. 
I talked to Lincoln and he said if I didn’t want to split the cases I could drive it in and put the new one in behind it, well it wouldn’t budge so I split the cases. I got the good side out with no problem but the bad side fought me, in the process the needles came out. I ended using a small tip on my torch to run a hot line down the inside of the race and was able to drive it out then, while it was hot. 
The good side axle showed no wear. The other one  (see pic) looks like this. The mic showed the worn part was consistently .003 smaller then the axle. I’m figuring the axle is toast, your thoughts please.thx Steve

3AF9ACCB-5591-4E67-8FC1-E14D28BD6EAC.jpeg

E4AA9685-6D45-4CA5-A923-CA9D08BD77F9.jpeg

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lynnmor

I would call it toast as well.

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Handy Don
40 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

The mic showed the worn part was consistently .003 smaller then the axle. I’m figuring the axle is toast

Oh yeah. :(

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WHX??

Really good pic on the axle guy and if this was just a show runner I would just smooth it out and call it a day. Worker best be lookin for a new axle. Good work on the tear down tho. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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41chevy
41 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Really good pic on the axle guy and if this was just a show runner I would just smooth it out and call it a day. Worker best be lookin for a new axle. Good work on the tear down tho. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Thx for the complement  and for the replies. It’s not going to be a worker, although I don’t want weeping oil dripping, I replaced that seal a couple days ago and the next morning it was leaking. I think I’ll shop around for another axle. One these days when I’m gone one of the kids might want it so I want it to be right. 

Edited by 41chevy
Missed word
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oldlineman

Yes easier to do it right now than later. Put want ad here and check with A to Z, great focks to deal with. Just a suggestion when installing new bearings I put mine in freezer overnight per suggestions from guys on here to make installing them easier. Worked great, went in with a little tapping from a small hammer and correct size socket. Bob 

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stevasaurus

Another option for that axle...have that area spray welded and then turned down to spec.  :eusa-think:

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41chevy
1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

Another option for that axle...have that area spray welded and then turned down to spec.  :eusa-think:

Thx I’m checking in my area for a weld shop.

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41chevy

Any ideas of where to fine a used axle, 1976 B 80, 61-8k802, 5091trans,  102764, 11 5/8”

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oldlineman

Put an ad here and call Lincoln at A to Z good people! 

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lynnmor
2 hours ago, 41chevy said:

Thx I’m checking in my area for a weld shop.

I would use that as a last resort, unless it is done perfectly and with the correct hardness the  results won’t be good.  Remember that the axle is the inner race for the bearing.

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41chevy
43 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I would use that as a last resort, unless it is done perfectly and with the correct hardness the  results won’t be good.  Remember that the axle is the inner race for the bearing.

Thx, your right, I was surprised the axle was worn and no wear on the needles. I mic’d a few of them since they came out when I was driving it out and they show no wear, i was kind of thinking the bearing was froze up when I saw the axle wear, but I guess it wasn’t. There evidently harder than axle. I’ll call Lincoln in the morning, I’m not having much luck finding one on the internet. Thx again for the advice. Steve

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Handy Don
48 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

Thx, your right, I was surprised the axle was worn and no wear on the needles. I mic’d a few of them since they came out when I was driving it out and they show no wear, i was kind of thinking the bearing was froze up when I saw the axle wear, but I guess it wasn’t. There evidently harder than axle. I’ll call Lincoln in the morning, I’m not having much luck finding one on the internet. Thx again for the advice. Steve

Also, if you are looking for NOS, you might try @76c12091520h, who has an eclectic and large inventory!

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