No Spark on Kohler K161S

[Redav72 231]

Tried turning over the K161S on my 753 for the first time and I'm not getting a spark (pulled the plug out and strapped it to the head to test, no visible spark).  I'm going to pick up a meter tomorrow to test continuity. 

 

• At the moment I have bypassed the key switch by running a wire directly from the voltage regulator to the coil, I do not have the ammeter installed but all other terminals are connected. 
• The starter turns and I can smell gas. 
• I've replaced the points and condenser with new (I tested with the old points first then replaced when I didn't get a spark). 
• I pulled the plug and swapped with a known working from another horse.

 

At this point I'm thinking either the coil or voltage regulator.  What can I do to test those two components?

 

 

Tractor 1963 753 Wiring Rev.pdf

[Redav72 231]

Ok, I just watched the iSaveTractor video on wiring and I'm thinking I need that circuit that the ammeter is on (not currently connected).  Am I correct in understanding that this is what delivers voltage to the coil?

[J854D 137]

The voltage regulator’s “L” terminal is powered through the regulator from the “Bat” terminal. The “L terminal then supplies current to the ignition switch to power the coil. Without the ammeter in the circuit there is no power to either  the “Bat” terminal or the “L” terminal, thus no power to the coil. You could try just joining & insulating the two ammeter wires to reestablish the circuit until you get the ammeter hooked up. -JD-

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,252]

 

[Achto 28,801]

8 hours ago, Redav72 said:

At this point I'm thinking either the coil or voltage regulator.  What can I do to test those two components?

 

The regulator will not effect power to the coil. It is for charging the battery only. Power to the coil will come from the key switch.

 

1- Check to see if you have power to the "+" side of the coil when the switch is on. The "+" side needs to have power with the switch on.

2- The wire from the points and the wire from the condenser needs be hooked to the "-" side of the coil 

3- The "-" side of the coil should be grounded when the points are closed. Even with new points I run a piece of paper or a dollar bill through the points a few times to clean them up. Also make sure that the points are opening and closing.

 

Note : Once you know that you have power to the "+" side of the coil, DO NOT leave it powered up for long periods of time with out the engine running. You will damage the coil. I try not to leave it powered up more than 30sec at a time.

 

 

[squonk 42,579]

Did you clean the contacts of the new points. They are usually oxidized from sitting. A dollar bill rubbed between them takes care of it.

[953 nut 57,994]

10 hours ago, Redav72 said:

Tried turning over the K161S on my 753 for the first time and I'm not getting a spark (pulled the plug out and strapped it to the head to test, no visible spark).  I'm going to pick up a meter tomorrow to test continuity. When you get the meter home take a couple of minutes to read the instructions.

 

• At the moment I have bypassed the key switch by running a wire directly from the voltage regulator to the coil,Move your Jumper to the Battery "+" and the Ignition Coil "+"  I do not have the ammeter installed but all other terminals are connected. Are the two wires that went to the amp meter connected together?
• The starter turns and I can smell gas. 
• I've replaced the points and condenser with new Are the condenser and the wire from the points connected to the Ignition Coil "-" terminal? While rotating the engine by hand can you see the points opening and closing once evert two revolutions? (I tested with the old points first then replaced when I didn't get a spark). 
• I pulled the plug and swapped with a known working from another horse.

 

At this point I'm thinking either the coil or voltage regulator.  What can I do to test those two components? To test the coil you will need to remove all wires from the coil, begin by setting your meter to the lowest setting (probably 20 ohms) and use the attached drawing from @Save Old Iron to test the Primary, probably three to five ohms.

 

 

Tractor 1963 753 Wiring Rev.pdf 206.22 kB · 3 downloads

Now check the secondary windings (meter set to a higher resistance range, perhaps one thousand to twenty thousand ohms) and refer to the second drawing.

Once your engine comes to life you should check the ignition timing. The points gap is also your timing adjustment. The Kohler service manual shows you how it is done.

 

[Redav72 231]

Awesome!  I've got spark and a running engine.  Thank you everyone for your help.

[953 nut 57,994]

8 minutes ago, Redav72 said:

Awesome!  I've got spark and a running engine.  Thank you everyone for your help.

                                             So what turned out to be the problem?

[Redav72 231]

Combination of @Achto and @J854D advice.  I didn't have power supplied to the battery terminal, and then once I did that I was constantly powering the coil so I installed the key switch.  Between the two of them I was able to get a spark.