Adding Bronze Bushings to Frame for Pivot Shaft

[ri702bill 8,319]

All:

While I had the frame stripped of all hardware on the 502 I am building, I addressed the localized wear issue on the 1/2 inch diameter pivot shaft where both ends go thru the frame. The plan is to machine the frame to accept 2 flanged sintered bronze bushings with a longer contact length on the shaft. The original had a poor L to D (Length to Diameter) ratio of about .5 to 1, (and a less than desirable steel on steel design) the 3/4" long bushing gives it 1.5 to 1. I am not a fan of using a pistol drill to drill and ream the enlarged holes; I wanted to add a shallow .090 deep counterbore to capture the bushing and leave about .015 of the flange sticking out after fly cutting, so off to the milling machine. Some folks may criticize machining a sintered bushing that it closes off the pores - got an issue - go grab a tissue!! I intend to remove about .040 from the backside of the cast iron lever at assembly. Notice in the first picture that there was no contact at the inside of the welded lever - the holes thru the frame plate are oversized - only the holes in the frame rails did the locating. More to follow upon assembly.

Bill

[peter lena 8,625]

@ri702bill agree with you on the mod , of course , adding some lucas green grease , would enhance and insure its solid smooth movement . there is a similar rod to hole  set up on the  single stage snow blower idler belt drive pulley , front end of frame behind , blower housing . if thats  lubricated , instead of rust bound , the pulleys react to the tension spring . keep it going , pete

[ri702bill 8,319]

@peter lena, @JCM @ebinmaine  @WHX?? It's too bad there is no good way to get any lubricant into that area short of pulling things apart to get there .....

[ri702bill 8,319]

@peter lena Funny you mentioned the Lucas Green Chassis grease - I've been using the Lucas Red & Tacky to lube the straight cut gears on both the Lathe and the Milling Machine power feed.

Cleaned them up and switched to Pete's favorite, the green grease, seems quieter and much less slinging of the lubricant off the gears.

[ebinmaine 67,492]

5 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

@peter lena, @JCM @ebinmaine  @WHX?? It's too bad there is no good way to get any lubricant into that area short of pulling things apart to get there .....

 

After the initial application of the green grease is there a creeping lubricant you can use. Periodically?

[peter lena 8,625]

@ri702bill  yup that green grease is anti sling rated ,  it typically stays without failure . if you think  that's  quieter , re grease a bearing with that lube , makes a whining bearing go silent . keep it greasy .pete 

[peter lena 8,625]

@ebinmaine  , that grease is also  POLYUREA RATED , as well as 560 deg , flash point . found it to stay with all my areas , thats why I  hype it so often , it returns back on itself , insuring  protection .  greasy pete

[ri702bill 8,319]

4 minutes ago, peter lena said:

makes a whining bearing go silent

Does it work on spouses and grandkids too??

[ri702bill 8,319]

9 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

After the initial application of the green grease is there a creeping lubricant you can use. Periodically?

Since the bushings are 3/4 inch long, I just might pop them back into the lathe and undercut the middle 1/4 inch of the ID by about .020 and pack that recess with the green grease at assembly.

That still gives me a 1:1 L to D ratio..........

[peter lena 8,625]

@ri702bill  having both , had not really thought about it for that , might have to go down into the lab ,  DR  greasy

[ri702bill 8,319]

Have at it!!!

[ebinmaine 67,492]

23 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Does it work on spouses and grandkids too??

Yes but it's application area dependent.  

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

I let my bronze bushings soak in oil for a couple of days/ weeks before I install them.

 

Never thaught of that point as a wear area. Will look into it here as well.

[ri702bill 8,319]

49 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

I let my bronze bushings soak in oil for a couple of days/ weeks before I install them

Take a bronze bushing out of the plastic bag and you feel no oil - place it on a piece of copy paper for 12 hours - wow, the oil migrates out.

[wallfish 16,999]

Love the way those bushings are recessed in there! That's awesome.

Unfortunately without the machinery or even the know how to operate them I'd be stuck drilling by hand and putting the flange on the inside of the frame.

[Lee1977 6,659]

I just drilled mine out with a 5/8" bit. That looks nice, but it can be done with less equipment. Used 1/2" ID  5/8" OD oilite bushings. Mine was knocking when the clutch was pushed in.

[JoeM 7,874]

4 hours ago, ri702bill said:

got an issue - go grab a tissue!

I like that! 

 

That repair with those bushings should be smooth as honey! Very nice job. 

 

I don't think I would get to crazy wanting to add grease. These things are running pretty much in dusty conditions, unsealed. That dirt just jumps on that grease and you have grinding compound. 

Unless it can be flushed out periodically.

 

It should outlive most of us the way you have it! 

[ri702bill 8,319]

3 hours ago, wallfish said:

I'd be stuck drilling by hand and putting the flange on the inside of the frame.

That actually was my original intention and use a #8-32 Button Head cap Screw to keep the flange seated (kind of like a slip fit fixed renewable drill bushing).

Bill

[Lee1977 6,659]

8 hours ago, wallfish said:

Love the way those bushings are recessed in there! That's awesome.

Unfortunately without the machinery or even the know how to operate them I'd be stuck drilling by hand and putting the flange on the inside of the frame.

I didn't used a flanged bushing, I sawed the one in the picture in half and used it . Did te same on the PTO shaft. That was back in 2913 they are still in there.

[Lee1977 6,659]

8 hours ago, wallfish said:

Love the way those bushings are recessed in there! That's awesome.

Unfortunately without the machinery or even the know how to operate them I'd be stuck drilling by hand and putting the flange on the inside of the frame.

I didn't used a flanged bushing, I sawed the one in the picture in half and used it . Did te same on the PTO shaft. That was back in 2013 they are still in there.

Edited March 13, 2022 by Lee1977

[ri702bill 8,319]

The finished product - I did undercut the middle of the ID on both bushings - gives me the option to pack with green grease or not.

The "parts department" yielded two thin steel 1/2" shims to go onto the flanges. Cut .045 off the inside of the cast iron lever - pin hole lines up nicely and there is about .010 clearance gap to the frame when assembled. All in all, about a 3-beer job .... Done.

Edited March 13, 2022 by ri702bill