stegs 325 #1 Posted February 28, 2022 So my tach on my 520H started working intermittently over the last week I took all electrical connections apart, cleaned them and applied dielectric to them. Thought it fixed the problem , but about 20 min into plowing, it started fluctuating and now just doesnt work at all Anyway, found a brand new NOS toro tach on the way. Any tips or tricks to remove the old one? Got to admit, i love the tractor but im getting really sick of the constant issue. If this new tach fixes the issues, i may put this thing up for sale....It seems the more i use this tractor, the more problems present themselves. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 62,867 #2 Posted February 28, 2022 I bet there are plenty of folks out there willing to pay the $300 purchase price plus what you’ve got into it. Sometimes a general tear down and inspection is the best baseline. If there were electrical issues to start, there may be more here and there and understandably; it was all prone to the same conditions it’s whole life. It might not even be the actual tach messing up. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #3 Posted February 28, 2022 (edited) 51 minutes ago, stegs said: So my tach on my 520H started working intermittently over the last week I took all electrical connections apart, cleaned them and applied dielectric to them. Thought it fixed the problem , but about 20 min into plowing, it started fluctuating and now just doesnt work at all Anyway, found a brand new NOS toro tach on the way. Any tips or tricks to remove the old one? Got to admit, i love the tractor but im getting really sick of the constant issue. If this new tach fixes the issues, i may put this thing up for sale....It seems the more i use this tractor, the more problems present themselves. Did you clean, repair or replace the tachometer connection at the voltage regulator? Keep in mind that dielectric grease is for preventing future corrosion and it will do nothing for the here and now, maybe even reduce current flow. To remove the tachometer, remove the fasteners at the dash and heat the plastic with a hair dryer. You should be able to get it pliable enough to wrestle the tachometer out, and if you have the new one ready you won't need to reheat. It does take a while to soften and it is best done in a warm garage. Edited February 28, 2022 by lynnmor 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,222 #4 Posted February 28, 2022 21 minutes ago, lynnmor said: To remove the tachometer, remove the fasteners at the dash and heat the plastic with a hair dryer. You should be able to get it pliable enough to wrestle the tachometer out, and if you have the new one ready you won't need to reheat. It does take a while to soften and it is best done in a warm garage. I recommend a heat gun with temp settings. Don't go much above 150º F or you'll permanently warp the plastic. Patience. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 48,815 #5 Posted February 28, 2022 1 hour ago, stegs said: It seems the more i use this tractor, the more problems present themselves. Welcome to my world Stegy and I have four of them. All but one were taken care of fairly decent in the past tho. The problems do seem to lessen the more I take care of them tho and get them in the shop for some regular love. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stegs 325 #6 Posted February 28, 2022 3 hours ago, lynnmor said: Did you clean, repair or replace the tachometer connection at the voltage regulator? Keep in mind that dielectric grease is for preventing future corrosion and it will do nothing for the here and now, maybe even reduce current flow. To remove the tachometer, remove the fasteners at the dash and heat the plastic with a hair dryer. You should be able to get it pliable enough to wrestle the tachometer out, and if you have the new one ready you won't need to reheat. It does take a while to soften and it is best done in a warm garage. i cleaned them up with electrical cleaner, small wire brush and dielectric grease. There are 2 wires coming out of that tab. 1 is gray that goes to the tach itself, the other goes back into the regulator Both are on 1 connection, kinda of a piggy back style connection. I could cut the wire and put new end on them i suppose. I dont have that piggyback style connection tho. Id have to track that down Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #7 Posted February 28, 2022 Just Google piggyback connector and you will find them on the usual sites as well as a hundred more. You could also solder together a Y and use single connectors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stegs 325 #8 Posted March 1, 2022 Got a quick look at it last night after i got the kids to bed. Double and triple checked the wires at the tach, wires going into/ out of the voltage regulator. Everything was tight, clean appeared to be just fine. Went to start the tractor and 0 power again. Nothing when I hit the key. Looked at the 9 pin connector and it was loose. Apparently it didnt "click" into itself when i touched it last or it vibrated loose Either way, plugged it back in, and the tach is working fine now. Would it be bad to zip tie those 9 pin connectors together? So they cant vibrate loose. I think i may have too much dielectric grease in there and it didnt "seat" 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,306 #9 Posted March 1, 2022 2 hours ago, stegs said: Would it be bad to zip tie those 9 pin connectors together? So they cant vibrate loose. I think i may have too much dielectric grease in there and it didnt "seat" Somehow I got thru life using very little dielectric grease, a better product that is really made to prevent corrosion is No-Ox. Only a very small amount is needed and a jar will last several lifetimes. If the clicky thing is broken, new housings are available here. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,222 #10 Posted March 1, 2022 1 hour ago, lynnmor said: If the clicky thing is broken, new housings are available here. If the connector is not overheating, contacts are good, and only the click thingy is busted, I'd zip it and move on for now, get the new part and put it on my to-do list for next time I'm in there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stegs 325 #11 Posted March 1, 2022 3 hours ago, lynnmor said: Somehow I got thru life using very little dielectric grease, a better product that is really made to prevent corrosion is No-Ox. Only a very small amount is needed and a jar will last several lifetimes. If the clicky thing is broken, new housings are available here. I dont think its broke I think what happened was i took it apart (the last time) it didnt "click" together due to the dielectric grease I only used such a small amount, but those pins/holes are so small that it got "tight" pushing the ends together due to the grease, that it didnt click Ill mess with it tomorrow night i think. Tonights project is garage speakers. Warm weather and grilling season is around the corner and i need to hook up my new speakers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
