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RED-Z06

I need paint advice

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RED-Z06

Im fixing up a couple decks, they are stripped apart, a mixture of bare metal, a bit of fiberglass, some jb cold weld, some old (albeit sanded) paint.

 

The top coat will be an enamel, which I'll thin with mineral spirits, but im unsure on the primer, rustoleum rusty metal primer, what to thin with,how much to thin it, and if its okay to spray an enamel over it.

 

Usually i buy paint at a local paint supplier, for trailers or cars, and they just hook me up with all the right stuff.

 

 

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oliver2-44

You can certainly use that Rustoleum Rusty primer under some oil base Rustoleum top coat. 

Add some enamel hardener https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000Z51ID8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details to the top coat to improve it even more  Please wear a respirator if using this hardener.

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lynnmor

To reduce the exposure to the spray mist, paint the underside of the deck and guards with a brush.  I have used the same primer with good success.

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rmaynard
11 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Please wear a respirator if using this hardener.

 

Excellent advice. But I'll go one step further. Any paint can be deadly if breathed. But hardener as well as acrylic urethanes and acrylic enamels contain products that will harden your lungs as well the paint. Many people who now suffer from COPD admit that they never wore breathing protection while spray painting. My advice is this. If you can smell it, you are breathing it. At the very least wear an N95 mask with ANY rattle can spray paint, and a fresh air respirator when painting with hardeners and acrylic urethanes. Think about this. These paints and hardeners contain isocyanates. Crazy glue contains isocyanates. Would you breathe crazy glue?

 

Sorry for the rant. 

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JoeM
12 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

rustoleum

5/2 mix and I have found acetone to work the best. I use this mix with hardener on the top coat too. 

I do know the rusty metal primer takes a while to dry completely. I wait at least a week before top coating. I have had it lift when I rushed. 

I use a very light mist on the first top coat, and wait 15 by the clock to recoat with a heavier second coat. Usually apply three coats. 

Your in FLA so setting it out in the sun will certainly help speed the drying process.

Over time rustoleum will fade, especially if left out in the elements. I use clear enamel over the top coat to give UV protection on the pieces I want to stay looking nice. It is cut and buffable also and you have to wait on the top coat to dry completely or the cleat will lift the paint.

 

Clear lifted paint.

ClearCoatlifingonsidepanel1.jpg.325c29de28563f988e1d1fd36f8011be.jpg

 

You can get good results if your patient. 

WHPartsSecondTryPaintwSprayGunHF3.jpg.0c3e0d296913e9b4ff832a4b103bf784.jpg

 

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RED-Z06

The top coat is an Enamel by Valspar made for an oem, i have a 2k clear for the top. Going to tsc to get some acetone snd thinner, hardener and primer.

 

 

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oliver2-44

When using the hardener you should actually use a cartridge type respirator. 

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RED-Z06

Waiting on a new 3m respirator and hardener but i have everything else...its primed at least.  This deck was...rough

20220227_171714.jpg

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kpinnc

I painted this tractor 20+ years ago with automotive paint over rattle can red oxide Rust-Oleum primer. None of the paint ever bubbled from underlying rust, and even typical scratches don't rust. 

 

Even in the environment here where items stored under  a shed "sweat" from the humidity year round, I'm a believer in this primer. Even when used over light surface rust, it works well.

IMG_20220101_202134095.jpg

Edited by kpinnc
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RED-Z06

Turned out nice.  Thanks for all the advice.  

20220303_171354.jpg

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