42" RD Baffles?

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I'm looking at this 42" deck and it doesn't have any baffles, (if that's what they call them) Notice the 36" has them.

[stevasaurus 22,712]

Is the one that has baffles a side discharge??  All of my rear discharge decks...no baffles. 

[peter lena 8,588]

@Manicmacanic, none of my 3,  42" r/d decks have that baffling , or my 36" r/d deck either , the one deck i got on a purchase was

 baffle packed with damp grass , quickly cutter wheeled it off , oil soak it down and feed that metal , if you want to save it , your second deck underside picture is showing starving metal for a lubrication soak .  like this, doing this for years . I also leave the deck at a 45 degree angle after spraying in the hot sun , to dry out and bake in the lubricant , my decks cut without rows or debris , just what I  do, my decks are soaking in oil now over winter , upside down . no rust or rot , ready for spring , pete

 

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

I had just received the 36" and know little or nothing about them. Oil is a familiar maintenance. I get the removal of the baffles, could be done before paint I suppose. Then just oil the underside, soak and let dry-no paint! Is a trade 48" SD for 42" RD practical?

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

1 hour ago, stevasaurus said:

Is the one that has baffles a side discharge??  All of my rear discharge decks...no baffles. 

Nope It's old school 36", model 5-0621 9. RD

[8ntruck 6,993]

My 42" RD deck has baffles like the one you show.  There is evidence that there were straight baffles towards the back of the deck between the blades.

 

I think there were several baffle/no baffle variations through the year's.

[peter lena 8,588]

@8ntruck  agree with you on the baffle issue , think the trapped wet grass in the upper baffle area , is not worth the gain you are saposed to get from the cyclonic  baffle to blade area.  always cut my grass at highest setting , and regularly , drop and inspect them . almost never have any trapped grass at all , maybe just a little grass scab here and there . pete

[peter lena 8,588]

@Manicmacanic always a back and forth on deck type and size, how much grass are you cutting and what type of lawn set up do you have ? like the clean cutting and zero grass trail with the r/d deck , others like the s/d . removed all rocks years ago , so nothing but grass . keep my blades sharp , small fine file . deck drop inspection is quick , what ever works for you , pete

[8ntruck 6,993]

20 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@8ntruck  agree with you on the baffle issue , think the trapped wet grass in the upper baffle area , is not worth the gain you are saposed to get from the cyclonic  baffle to blade area.  always cut my grass at highest setting , and regularly , drop and inspect them . almost never have any trapped grass at all , maybe just a little grass scab here and there . pete

Yup.  Those front corners pack in the grass.  I've got some repair work to do on that deck.  I am planning on rebuilding the baffles and leaving the triangular 'floor' out of the front corners.  If I don't like the performance of the baffles, it is a simple job to cut them out.

[JoeM 7,871]

Had this one a few years ago, picked up on a trade then sold. Never used it. 

reference only

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

51 minutes ago, JoeM said:

Had this one a few years ago, picked up on a trade then sold. Never used it. 

reference only

I see they are very similar, seems the extra triangular metal may give strength to the baffles. I will continue rebuilding/painting the 5-0621 9 ad try it. Keeping my 48" SD here in the stall. To think I got 36" at 75! I was going to trade the 48" SD for the 42" RD , which is in very good shape, now can have both RD/SD!

Edited February 27, 2022 by "Manic-Mechanic"

[oliver2-44 9,711]

You might consider filling those "triangle areas" with expanding foam.  I have not tried this as I don't have one with the triangle areas. just a thought. 

[EB-80/8inPA 1,639]

9 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

You might consider filling those "triangle areas" with expanding foam.  I have not tried this as I don't have one with the triangle areas. just a thought. 

Not so sure that’s a good idea.  That foam can act hydroscopically and keep moisture in constant contact with the steel shell, an invitation to accelerated rust.  It may depend on the product, but best to verify that first.

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

55 minutes ago, oliver2-44 said:

You might consider filling those "triangle areas" with expanding foam.  I have not tried this as I don't have one with the triangle areas. just a thought. 

Take notice the triangles have holes in the flats, as stated, moisture is the issue; otherwise the construct would have been sealed.

[biged77 113]

My 42RD looks just like yours, baffles had been removed before I purchased it (the parts list for mine does call for baffles).  Cuts just fine for me.

[kpinnc 11,936]

I think the later decks had a "recycling" title and sales pitch. I've seen both with and without.

 

Not sure if either was an improvement over the other. 

[lynnmor 7,302]

My zero turn has a similar baffled area that has the slightest gap,at least it can be removed with two bolts.  The space behind it fills completely in just one mowing, you have to see it to believe it.  Had I not discovered that the expensive deck would have rusted away quickly.  I added Trim-Lok edging to the guard and spray Fluid Film before installing the baffle and that fixed the problem.  I mention this so others might know that baffles are a cancer waiting to spread. 

[peter lena 8,588]

@JoeM  noting your deck underside picture , I  refer to that closed baffle area as( rot boxes ), first dealing with them , was to drill a center hole  ABOUT 1 ,1/2"  in attempt to help dry out damp grass. did nothing to help . used a cutting wheel and cleanly removed all related mount areas . I  do not use any sealers or  paint on the underside of my decks . found once the lubrication soak gets into the metal , it turns black with lubricant  stain . as detailed in my rustproofing pictures , rarely have anything at all on the deck surface, drop the deck , 45deg to sun set up , spray it down , thoroughly , make sure the sun gets the deck hot to the touch , its drying and soaking in that lubricant . no deck rot at all , small fine file , blade touch up , lucas xtra heavy duty chassis grease , in all my bearings  as well as pto drive bearings , came to this , by detailing problem areas , very reliable , rot free, and quiet bearings , greasy pete 

[lynnmor 7,302]

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

 

I  refer to that closed baffle area as( rot boxes )

 

 small fine file , blade touch up

 

 

(rot boxes), you got that right.

 

It would take me a week or more to sharpen blades with a small fine file, I use a grinder and it still takes at least 3/4 of an hour to sharpen and balance 3 blades.

[peter lena 8,588]

@lynnmor  have to be very careful of what I  call or refer to anything  horse related . but if a deck area regularly rots out , how would you refer to that "  problem " ?  your blades must be rough , since replacing worn blades with new , a few years ago , went over to the more delicate try of  smaller file , and its been working, also added an idler pulley on the back unsupported spindle drive belt area , that used to bounce  with a buzz.  mounted in the middle of that rear of deck top area. another , you can't do that  mod that works on my decks  , staying on the dark side , greasy pete  

[EB-80/8inPA 1,639]

This deck came with my ‘73 no name and I’m pretty sure it’s vintage.  I haven’t ever mounted it (as seen, it needs some TLC).  36” RD with baffles: