2-stage snowblower chain issue

[WH1618speed 535]

Hi everyone, I got a Wheel Horse two stage snowblower recently and the chain fell off. it was quite loose with the tensioner being maxed out. I took the chain off and it was incredibly stiff. I am going to soak it in some new oil and see if that does the trick but I didn't see any kind of other way it could be tightened. I am new to these 2 stages as only having the single stages before. The snow blower itself is in incredibly good condition but the chain is really stiff. I realize the gear box sprocket is out of alignment because I had to loosen it to remove the chain but it was perfectly aligned prior to. 

[stevasaurus 22,767]

If everything is good, maybe take out a link??

[roadapples 6,983]

I personally wouldn't take a chance on that chain. Tractor Supply or ebay you can buy 10 ft for about 20 bucks....

[lynnmor 7,315]

There is a block that rides against the chain, the early ones are wood and the last one had plastic.  Look at the parts diagram and you will see it.  The block is adjusted by loosening two bolts and moving it till nearly all slack is removed.  Since the chain was neglected and rust formed inside the links, I would replace it because that tension block takes too much of a beating.  Those chains need to be oiled after every use and the tension checked.

[peter lena 8,647]

@WH1618speed agree with @roadapples  on the chain replacement , from the view of those thin gear forward edges , chances are that chain drive was used running dry . would recommend you getting some specific  CHAIN AND OPEN GEAR AEROSOL;LUBRICANT . AND KEEP THAT CHAIN SET UP WET WITH LUBRICANT , also detail out any related linkage movement areas. also check out the lube level on the center auger drive . lube that open gear spiral chute set up .  did a 2 stage  a couple of years ago , was starved for maintenance , and lubricant.  just the opposite  when I sold it . pete  

[wallfish 17,020]

Definitely replace the chain since you're in there anyway. #40 roller chain.

As for the tension there are a couple of options. A new block tensioner or installing an idler sprocket instead. I chose a small 10 tooth sprocket as a tensioner used on the outside loop of the chain on the bottom side as it fits easily in that small short space between the 2  sprockets and holds the chain tight into the teeth of the gearbox's small driven sprocket . Most commonly available are the larger 17 tooth idlers which can work too but you will know what I mean when you try to install one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224568643751?hash=item34495590a7:g:s6sAAOSw5g5hFDdA

 

Some on here may not like the looks of the bearing on the small 10 tooth or question it's hardness of the teeth but I don't believe they even have a 2 stage blower or ever tried installing a 17 tooth sprocket in one, let alone trying a 10 tooth. It's not impossible to install a bigger sprocket as I originally had one installed on mine and it worked OK but chose to remove it in favor of the smaller one. They do have a bigger bearing and are a bit more heavy duty but for the purposes of this application I have found the smaller one is more than adequate, easier to fit in there and allows for much more tension adjustment to keep the chain better engaged with the drive sprocket. Haven't needed to adjust any tension since installing it and 0 chain slip under heavy loads.

 

[roadapples 6,983]

I know exactly what you're talking about John. I've got a 17 tooth and was looking at installing it a few days ago. Not much room. I was hoping to not have to lengthen the chain...

[wallfish 17,020]

58 minutes ago, roadapples said:

I know exactly what you're talking about John. I've got a 17 tooth and was looking at installing it a few days ago. Not much room. I was hoping to not have to lengthen the chain...

The tension is best applied on the outside of the loop to keep more links engaged on that small drive sprocket. Not completely necessary but slipping a chain can become a PITA for both the chain and the sprocket plus the operator. With a 17 on the lower loop in between the sprockets it needs to be located at an exact point not to touch the other 2 sprockets. Or make the chain tighter with a half link so the idler doesn't need to go as deep in between them. 10 or 17 tooth it will need a small piece with 2 holes to relocate the idler mounting point from the adjuster bracket.

[roadapples 6,983]

@wallfish are you saying you can't do it without changing the chain length. I don't mind getting a 10 tooth sprocket...

[wallfish 17,020]

11 hours ago, roadapples said:

@wallfish are you saying you can't do it without changing the chain length. I don't mind getting a 10 tooth sprocket...

Small idler and did not change the chain length.  

[ebinmaine 67,711]

On 2/20/2022 at 9:42 AM, wallfish said:

Small idler and did not change the chain length.  

Were you able to use the factory bracket that would have held the block style tensioner?

 

I'm mulling over whether to just get a factory piece or build a bracket with the 10 tooth idler.  

 

 

[wallfish 17,020]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

Were you able to use the factory bracket that would have held the block style tensioner?

 

I'm mulling over whether to just get a factory piece or build a bracket with the 10 tooth idler.  

 

 

Yes but made a bracket to attach the idler onto then to that factory bracket to position the idler. There isn't much room in there.

Over the summer I bought a #40 1/2 link and a piece of good quality #40 chain I picked up at one of the shows. Tightened the chain and running it idler-less this year. I was going to go with a couple more teeth on the smaller drive sprocket to speed'er up too but when I opened the package they sent the wrong bore sprocket. Maybe next year????

[HorseFixer 2,012]

On 2/19/2022 at 6:39 PM, wallfish said:

Definitely replace the chain since you're in there anyway. #40 roller chain.

As for the tension there are a couple of options. A new block tensioner or installing an idler sprocket instead. I chose a small 10 tooth sprocket as a tensioner used on the outside loop of the chain on the bottom side as it fits easily in that small short space between the 2  sprockets and holds the chain tight into the teeth of the gearbox's small driven sprocket . Most commonly available are the larger 17 tooth idlers which can work too but you will know what I mean when you try to install one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224568643751?hash=item34495590a7:g:s6sAAOSw5g5hFDdA

 

Some on here may not like the looks of the bearing on the small 10 tooth or question it's hardness of the teeth but I don't believe they even have a 2 stage blower or ever tried installing a 17 tooth sprocket in one, let alone trying a 10 tooth. It's not impossible to install a bigger sprocket as I originally had one installed on mine and it worked OK but chose to remove it in favor of the smaller one. They do have a bigger bearing and are a bit more heavy duty but for the purposes of this application I have found the smaller one is more than adequate, easier to fit in there and allows for much more tension adjustment to keep the chain better engaged with the drive sprocket. Haven't needed to adjust any tension since installing it and 0 chain slip under heavy loads.

 

John that link seems to be mucked up do you have the part #'s or link to the needed GROCERIES for this 10 tooth project? Thanks ~Duke

[ebinmaine 67,711]

7 hours ago, HorseFixer said:

John that link seems to be mucked up do you have the part #'s or link to the needed GROCERIES for this 10 tooth project? Thanks ~Duke

 

Duke I've ordered a length of chain and a 10-tooth idler off of fleabay.

I can't speak for the quality at all but if you'd like I can send you a PM with links to what I ordered.

 

 

[wallfish 17,020]

I've since bought a good quality chain and half link and going completely idlerless or block tensioner.

You may not need a half link to get the chain tight but mine did.

 

[HorseFixer 2,012]

2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Duke I've ordered a length of chain and a 10-tooth idler off of fleabay.

I can't speak for the quality at all but if you'd like I can send you a PM with links to what I ordered.

 

Yes that would be great! Thanks ~Duke

[HorseFixer 2,012]

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

I've since bought a good quality chain and half link and going completely idlerless or block tensioner.

You may not need a half link to get the chain tight but mine did.

 

John Where did you get tye chain from and Part # please! ~Thanks Duke

[ebinmaine 67,711]

48 minutes ago, HorseFixer said:

 

Yes that would be great! Thanks ~Duke

I'll send em later today.  

[ebinmaine 67,711]

2 hours ago, HorseFixer said:

 

Yes that would be great! Thanks ~Duke

PM sent

[wallfish 17,020]

6 hours ago, HorseFixer said:

 

John Where did you get tye chain from and Part # please! ~Thanks Duke

I bought a length of chain from a guy at one of the local engine shows. He had a bunch of motorcycle stuff so assuming it's motorcycle chain. Maybe check some motorcycle shops.

It seems like the cheap chain was stretching/wearing kind of quickly. I put some pretty heavy loads on mine and especially so when the snow is wet. Loading it up heavy tends to keep it from clogging the chute.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

3 hours ago, wallfish said:

I bought a length of chain from a guy at one of the local engine shows. He had a bunch of motorcycle stuff so assuming it's motorcycle chain. Maybe check some motorcycle shops.

It seems like the cheap chain was stretching/wearing kind of quickly. I put some pretty heavy loads on mine and especially so when the snow is wet. Loading it up heavy tends to keep it from clogging the chute.

 

I have done plenty of searching this afternoon and  Here is a graph I found on chain specs, ~Duke

 

Edited December 20, 2023 by HorseFixer

[ebinmaine 67,711]

14 minutes ago, HorseFixer said:

chain specs

I've got some of that #60 here. 

You should see that stuff next to the #40. 

Gargantuan!! 

[HorseFixer 2,012]

27 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I've got some of that #60 here. t give that stuff away~

You should see that stuff next to the #40. 

Gargantuan!! 

I bet they don't give that stuff away!   `~Duke

[Wayne0 465]

I just whipped up a new tensioner block from a VERY hard piece of wood, as the original.

I've got a bunch of double #50 to try on the front tires.

Edited December 21, 2023 by Wayne0

[HorseFixer 2,012]

If you do like John the WALFISH did, and buy good quality chain you may not need a tensioner, the good chain is about $20.00 a foot how long are those chains anyways? I gathering needed groceries for a spring rebuild I have two Tall Chutes that I will be combing the best from both parts into 1. Maybe  I can sell the old pieces to recoup some costs.  `    ~Duke

Edited December 21, 2023 by HorseFixer