Not running right

[lynnmor 7,307]

48 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@lynnmor  don't even think about ethanol  free fuel , sta-bil fuel treatment , fuel filters , clear vinyl fuel rated hose , fuel check valve just before carb , my 3 horses start instantly , require practically zero choke , from cold start  ,  this combo works .  greasy pete

 

I use sta-bil for long term storage, I consider all the rest just snake oil.  I linked to Taryl's video before but apparently no one watched it.  His conclusion after testing is that it is all snake oil.

[pacer 3,173]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

don't even think about ethanol  free fuel

 

WOW!! did you really mean that??? not a mis-spell??

[peter lena 8,634]

@pacer  nope , do not hunt around  for  ethanol free fuel. have it in everything , no issues , regular fuel additive , STABIL , does it for me , no issues.  just my own experience, pete

[Achto 27,601]

I worked in a motor cycle shop for 10yrs. Every winter we stored 50+ bikes for the season. First year that I was there the owner had me pull the batteries, tag them and park the bikes in our storage building. The next spring was a disaster, hardly any of the bikes would start. Most would start if you drained the gas out of the carb & let the fuel that was in the tank fill the carb again. 

 

2nd year we put Stabil in the tanks and took the bikes for about a 5 mile ride before setting them up for storage. Following spring was not much different, most bikes would not start with the gas that was in the float bowl.

 

3rd year we added Stabil to the tank, started the bike, shut the fuel off & let the bikes run out of gas. That spring every bike started right up after turning the gas on & letting the float bowl fill up. This became our normal practice from then on. 

 

We did later switch to using Seafoam in the tanks instead of Stabil and had the same results.

 

With the above scenario's we had no idea what kind of gas our customers were putting in their tanks. We did determine that all gas will go bad quicker in smaller quantities.

 

I follow this learned practice when storing my 's. Never have fuel related issues when I pull them out of storage.

Edited February 10, 2022 by Achto

[RED-Z06 2,221]

The larger the quantity the longer the storage life, stabilizer will not protect the 1/2oz of fuel in the bowl, all float carbs are vented, so the fuel in the bowl will evaporate in a few weeks and more fuel comes in...evaporates, in a few months you have a slurry of  "solids" or "precipitants" in the bowl...basically the addictive package that doesn't evaporate..this will make the fuel usually non-combustible.

 

My saws, chipper, tiller, generators, splitter..all get run dry when im done...i clean out way too many customer carbs to desire doing it to my own stuff for free.

 

Stabilizer can actually hurt, it tends to build up in the bowl as the fuel evaps off, leaves a hard crystalline deposit.

 

I buy about 80g of gas in the spring for hurricane season, i put in stabil360 and i start using it if unused around mid fall...

Edited February 10, 2022 by RED-Z06

[kpinnc 12,085]

I keep my generator full all winter with stabilizer. I crank it once a month, the shut the fuel off and run the carb dry.

 

In sping I siphon out the fuel and replace it, if it hasn't been used already. It's always ethanol free, so it gets rotated through the truck. It's about 7 gallons, so it gets used quick.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Any updates?

[TJ5208 1,824]

146-0496 Carburetor for ONAN NOS B48G B48M P126G P128G P220G Replace Number 146-0414 146-0479 146-6100 146-0375 146-0381 146-0386 146-0430 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJ5VQ4L/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_3PCB4GBY2N6QR3T4XS36

[TJ5208 1,824]

Here's a carburetor I'm looking at I hope I didn't do anything wrong by putting a link on here.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

17 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said:

146-0496 Carburetor for ONAN NOS B48G B48M P126G P128G P220G Replace Number 146-0414 146-0479 146-6100 146-0375 146-0381 146-0386 146-0430 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJ5VQ4L/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_3PCB4GBY2N6QR3T4XS36

I have one of those on my Deere 420/P220G and id give anything to have the oem carb instead 

[TJ5208 1,824]

DEF New Carburetor Rebuild for Onan Engine P216G P218G P220G P224G OL16 OL18 OL20 LX720 LX770 LX790 B48G-GA020 B48G-GA19.9 146-0657 146-0478 146-6100 Late Nikki Performer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVHQTWM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_JPG7WCBXAT9EMM2ZC6RR

[TJ5208 1,824]

How about the rebuild?

[RED-Z06 2,221]

14 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said:

DEF New Carburetor Rebuild for Onan Engine P216G P218G P220G P224G OL16 OL18 OL20 LX720 LX770 LX790 B48G-GA020 B48G-GA19.9 146-0657 146-0478 146-6100 Late Nikki Performer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVHQTWM/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_JPG7WCBXAT9EMM2ZC6RR

Probably not necessary, in general onan nikki carbs come apart easy, little air and some cleaner they blow out and clean up fine...why i wish i had my original.

[TJ5208 1,824]

1 minute ago, RED-Z06 said:

Probably not necessary, in general onan nikki carbs come apart easy, little air and some cleaner they blow out and clean up fine...why i wish i had my original.

Well I mean when I have to put it back together. I'll need gaskets and stuff.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

12 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said:

Well I mean when I have to put it back together. I'll need gaskets and stuff.

Doesn't hurt to have it on hand, ive never had an onan carb that the gasket was stuck to either side.  I just take the 4 screws out, lift the top off, pull the float out by the hinge, blow out the bowl, aim air down the side towards thw main jet (its a huge orifice that rarely ever clogs) then blow out the pilot jet on top, its a simple carb, once the filter is off, probably 10 minutes away from being back together.  

 

Yours ran on mayonnaise...so it probably just needs to be blown out, its not likely corroded.

Edited February 15, 2022 by RED-Z06

[lynnmor 7,307]

Get a carburetor kit that contains the welch plug, many do not.  Throw away the intake gaskets and get genuine Onan.  Use the old float and needle if OK, but if the needle needs replaced carefully file the sharp edge off where it contacts the float to prevent it from hanging up.  Toss any hose and clamps in the kit.  The fuel filter will be cheap junk.  Basically what you will be using is the bowl and flange gaskets, the welch plug and maybe the needle and the float.  The rest is junk.

[TJ5208 1,824]

Well we tried carburetor cleaner it didn't help a bit so we're going to tear it down and rebuild the carburetor.

Edited February 16, 2022 by TJ Salyers

[Achto 27,601]

3 hours ago, TJ Salyers said:

tear it down and rebuild the carburetor.

 

At least take the top off the carb and clean the bowl out. I'm guessing that it is full of the same crap that was in the tank.

[TJ5208 1,824]

16 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

At least take the top off the carb and clean the bowl out. I'm guessing that it is full of the same crap that was in the tank.

But if the crap was already in the carburetor I don't see how that could help.

[Achto 27,601]

2 minutes ago, TJ Salyers said:

But if the crap was already in the carburetor I don't see how that could help.

 

You can try to get a gallon of crap to go through the carb or just a couple of ounces. Was just a suggestion to try. Granted taking the whole carb apart & cleaning it would be better. Don't think that it needs to be rebuilt or replaced, usually a good cleaning does wonders.

[TJ5208 1,824]

Just now, Achto said:

 

You can try to get a gallon of crap to go through the carb or just a couple of ounces. Was just a suggestion to try. Granted taking the whole carb apart & cleaning it would be better. Don't think that it needs to be rebuilt or replaced, usually a good cleaning does wonders.

Well cleaning is what I meant but you're going to take it all apart and put back together so that's why I said rebuild.

[RED-Z06 2,221]

I guess i dont understand the reluctance to pull the top of the carb off and blow it out, these carbs are painfully simple, you'll spend hours trying to avoid something that takes minutes to do.

[TJ5208 1,824]

4 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

I guess i dont understand the reluctance to pull the top of the carb off and blow it out, these carbs are painfully simple, you'll spend hours trying to avoid something that takes minutes to do.

So what do you mean by blow just like take the air nozzle and just blow in it or try to create pressure?

[TJ5208 1,824]

Is where the screws are is that the part I want to take off?

[RED-Z06 2,221]

Just now, TJ Salyers said:

So what do you mean by blow just like take the air nozzle and just blow in it or try to create pressure?

Like take a can of carb cleaner, put the straw on, blow through any hole you see, then put an air nozzle up to any holes and blow them out too.  The pilot jet should unscrew and can be cleaned out manually, its the one recessed in the hole.  The main is down in the bowl..just blow some air down its direction...they dont normally clog because they are huge.