nylyon-(Admin) 7,300 #1 Posted July 23, 2007 Has anyone replace the PTO bell bearings on their tractor yet? The C-120 is bad and will need to be replaced. Not sure if I can just go to Napa or TSC and get a bearing which will fit? Never attempted anything like this yet, suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,403 #2 Posted July 23, 2007 Which bearing? Theres 2 of em. The one that rides on the crank bushing and the one at the end of the bell. The one at the end of the bell should be available at a Toro dealer(assuming you have one near you) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,403 #3 Posted July 23, 2007 The big one that has the needle bearings is #106769 and is available for about $15. The smaller one at the end of the PTO bell is #106947 and is also available for around $12. Mike.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,403 #4 Posted July 23, 2007 I got the small bearing # wrong(it happens ). It should be #109842 and is still about $12. Mike.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,300 #5 Posted July 23, 2007 There are 2 Toro dealers near by. I haven't been to the one in my town (kind of sad) I have always gone to the one in Connecticut, after all you got most of the Wheel Horses. Have you replaced the bearing on one of these yet? Is the old bearing one piece, or is it a bearing and race where the race needs to be pressed in / out? Just getting a rough idea on what I'm up against. I would rather replace the bearing than the part itself, then I know that it is new. On a similar topic, I started my restore list and it isn't as bad as I had thought. Of course half of the parts I know I need are discontinued, and I have the seat dilemma that needs to be dealt with. Looking for the same deal you got on that Toro seat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,300 #6 Posted July 29, 2007 I removed the PTO brake pad then the linkage and the PTO bell slid right off. There were some parts in the PTO bell which I suspect are the parts to slide the bell off the clutch pad when you release the PTO. In any event, the inner bearing looks just fine, there was still grease in there and I couldn't detect any wobble. To get the bearing out of the PTO, I put a socket in the bell which was bigger than the inside of the bearing and it tapped out easily. After that was out, I needed to remove the shaft from the inside of the bearing. I made a mistake and tried to tap the shaft out with a hammer and mushroomed the end over a little bit. I filed it down and finally removed that end from the bad bearing. During the process, the bearing fell apart, it was really that bad. So now I'll be off to get a new bearing. I might replace the shaft as well it's not that expensive and it will just make the installation a little easier. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,300 #7 Posted August 22, 2007 Well, all the parts came in so I put the bearing in the bell, got new snap rings but I kept the original shaft. I also got a new spring. Interesting, on my 414 there wasn't a spring on the inside of the bell, I wonder if they discontinued that idea or what? Anyway, the C-120 now has its own functioning PTO. Yippiee Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,512 #8 Posted August 22, 2007 These pto's on the WH's are very similar to the one on the older JD 110/112 and 200 series. The pto cup on my 210 and my old 214 comes off easy like you mentioned yours did. The only thing with the ptos clutches on the JDs were to keep them clean and properly lubricated. They have a habit of sticking to the cones and not disengaging properly. I'm not sure if the WH's have this problem or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Curmudgeon 28 #9 Posted August 24, 2007 Can't say as I've ever heard of a Wheel Horse pto clutch sticking. Can't say as I've ever heard of anyone really putting any preventative maintenance into them either. They seem pretty trouble free. The only thing I've ever had to do is replace the friction material. From what I've heard, it is getting problematic finding replacement linings. I suspect if I ever have to do another, I'll get some generic lining material and use that. Same as I did with my brakes. For the cost of one new brake band assembly, I got enough lining and adhesive to do 4 bands. Dale, in Michigan Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,300 #10 Posted August 24, 2007 This PTO the outer bearing disintegrated, was completely useless plus the spring inside was just destroyed. I replaced the spring eventhough the later models don't have them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,512 #11 Posted August 24, 2007 Can't say as I've ever heard of a Wheel Horse pto clutch sticking. Can't say as I've ever heard of anyone really putting any preventative maintenance into them either. They seem pretty trouble free. The only thing I've ever had to do is replace the friction material. From what I've heard, it is getting problematic finding replacement linings. I suspect if I ever have to do another, I'll get some generic lining material and use that. Same as I did with my brakes. For the cost of one new brake band assembly, I got enough lining and adhesive to do 4 bands. Dale, in Michigan Since I'm still new to WHs, that is good to hear about them not sticking. On the JDs, or at least on the ones I've own that used this set up, it was problematic. I would have to pull off the clutch and clean it about every spring. And also it needed adjustment every so often to keep it engaging and disengaging properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
glenn27 71 #12 Posted February 10, 2008 I've got to pull the PTO off thge C-120 I recently got--as it's doing the same thing as you described--but I also know the PO didn't use the deck on it for a long time. Took me several hours just to get the front tach knob freed up/ functioning... Oh-well (one day @ a time) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,300 #13 Posted February 10, 2008 The hardest part was removing the center shaft from the outer bearing. In hindsight, I should have just bought a new center shaft and saved the aggravation. Other than that it was pretty straight forward and easy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #14 Posted February 10, 2008 You'll find an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel comes in handy on that outer bearing. Clamp the bearing in a vise and split the outer race with the grinder on one side, turn it over and split it until the outer race comes off. Do the same to the inner race, carefully cutting through it parallel to the shaft. Once you get deep enough, the inner race will "pop" and slide right off. (It won't hurt it if accidentally hit the stub shaft a little with the cut-off wheel.) Polish the shaft with some emery cloth, install a NEW outer snap ring, put a little anti-seize on it, and install the new bearing and inner snap ring. When installing this sub-assembly into the PTO pulley DO NOT hit the stub shaft -- use a piece of pipe or a big socket to drive against the outer race of the bearing until it seats in the PTO pulley. Install the internal snap ring in the end of the pulley and you're all done. P.S. > Make sure you assemble these parts with the PTO pulley removed and sitting flat on a hard surface. Don't do it on the tractor. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
