How do I Setup to Drilling Front Axle for Spindle Bushings

[ri702bill 8,320]

15 hours ago, Pullstart said:

I think the outermost wall of the axle is the least likely to wear.  If one were to indicate in that wall as vertical, that would be the best possible way in my mind.  They could also double check with that indicator the flatness of the top of the axle too.  It should have been machined square to the hole. Aim small, miss small.

 

If you don’t have a long enough “feeler” on the indicator, you could use a piece of 3/4” drill rod in the hole and some shims or @wallfish’s toothpick collection to wedge the rod into it’s most likely position then indicate that vertically

@Pullstart is correct (he was a shoe & die maker!!) it is all about the setup. - As noted do the axle pivot hole FIRST - use it in the spindle setup.

Since my photo leads off this topic - there are a few distinct advantages to using a milling machine instead of a drill press for this task - 

The machine has a digital readout - makes life easier.

Variable speed spindle - slow for drilling and reaming, fast for fly cutting.

Fly cutting - I fly cut the backside of the center hole as that area is usually chewed up and worn - removed .020 material, added a .030 shim at assembly to tighten things up.

Fly cutting - I fly cut the underside of the spindle bosses to add a 1/8" thick thrust washer - amount of material removed is calculated to end up with a gap on the snap ring once assembled of .007 - .010 - each side will be slightly different. This is done in the SAME setup as the drilling & reaming, assuring that the fly cut surface is both flat and perpendicular to the reamed spindle bushing hole.

Edited February 4, 2022 by ri702bill

[ebinmaine 67,496]

@ri702bill

NIIIIICE

[pacer 3,169]

27 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Since my photo leads off this topic - there are a few distinct advantages to using a milling machine instead of a drill press for this

 

Was wondering whose set up that was, cause it strongly resembled the set up I had when I was doing mine (cept I've got a Bridgeport clone) And, not only with your set up, but your description of 'cleaning up' the axle was similar to what I did...... great minds think alike, eh?

 

That took up most of a day, I'd fiddle/shim/block up/trim a wood shim that wouldnt be right and go cut another..... get it where looked OK and crank down on the Kurt vise -- and .... its off again  My bores were really out, I was measuring in the .09xx area on the oblong areas, so I knew I'd have to go to the 1" bushing - this much wear added to the frustration of getting the bore aligned on top of getting it locked down in the vise.

 

But, as I mentioned, I'll fuss and fume when I'm doing something like this, but when I get it finished ..... well, I usually have a big grin

[ebinmaine 67,496]

11 minutes ago, pacer said:

I'll fuss and fume when I'm doing something like this, but when I get it finished ..... well, I usually have a big grin

Excellent feeling of accomplishment ain't it??

 

Nothing like a job well done to satisfy.  

[lynnmor 7,306]

I would do the bores on a milling machine much the same way as mentioned in the above posts.  Running a tapered reamer, that was meant for aligning rivet holes on a bridge, will not return the spindle to the correct position.  The reamer will follow the path of least resistance and that will be the worn portion.

 

Some later model horses use a roller thrust bearing on the bottom of the axle which reduces steering wear.  I get mine from McMaster where you can choose the thickness of the hard washers to take up the gap.  I use the old ones on top of the axle to adjust the gap and act as a bit of a grease seal.

[WHX?? 48,815]

You guys with the machinist background and your mills are starting to tick me off! 

I do the same operation as you Bill with the fly cutter and add the thrust washer.... 'cept I have to hand file it! 

[ebinmaine 67,496]

30 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I would do the bores on a milling machine much the same way as mentioned in the above posts.  Running a tapered reamer, that was meant for aligning rivet holes on a bridge, will not return the spindle to the correct position.  The reamer will follow the path of least resistance and that will be the worn portion

Absolutely agreed but I don't have, or have access to, a mill.  

A reamer is a viable option. Maybe not ideal but certainly usable. 

 

 

31 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

I use the old (hard washers) on top of the axle to adjust the gap and act as a bit of a grease seal.

 

Excellent idea!

[ri702bill 8,320]

31 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

You guys with the machinist background and your mills are starting to tick me off! 

I do the same operation as you Bill with the fly cutter and add the thrust washer.... 'cept I have to hand file it! 

I bought the Milling Machine second hand, still new in the crate, in the summer of 2019. I'm a retired Machine Design engineer, and over the last 45 years prior always had access to one where I was working - our facility closed fall of 2019, figured it was time to get one ...

Hand filing that much material off - too much like work.

Bill

Edited February 4, 2022 by ri702bill

[ri702bill 8,320]

5 hours ago, ranger said:

18 hours ago, WHX?? said:

I could see doing it that way 'Fish. Did you use full length bushings? 

In situations like this it’s usually better to use two bushes and leave a small gap in the middle, or use a one piece bush, full length with a ‘relief’ in the centre. The idea is to reduce the ‘Barreling’ effect, (rocking), as the outer ends of the bushes wear due to side loads, but the centre only wears through turning. Leaving a space in between the bushes also provides a lubricant reservoir, and moves the pivot, (leverage) point away from the centre. Not much, but every little helps.

@ranger - excellent sound engineering advice - the gap is a perfect spot to hold Pete's @peter lena favorite green chassis grease...

Bill

Edited February 4, 2022 by ri702bill

[ri702bill 8,320]

One last piece - check the condition of your spindles upon dis-assembly of the axle - worn out spindles will still be sloppy in new refurbished holes - I had to switch one with a parts tractor when I did the modification to my C81 - same goes for bent spindles - pick your best parts....

Bill

[peter lena 8,627]

@ri702bill agree with you on that ,the time to do your thinking is in your set up, one of my favorites  is , what if I did this ?  just the reaction I usually get from that is worth all the hollering , keep it greasy , pete

[edgro 677]

The one i did I used adjustable reamers https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Adjustable-Cutting-Adjustment-19-21mm/dp/B07JP7M77M/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1CD8XLFZS4JOH&keywords=adjustable+reamer&qid=1643994277&sprefix=adjustable+reamer%2Caps%2C1081&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTjRUOFIzWU8yOEw2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTcxNzgyMk1LSVVVQzAzRVQ0SiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQzMzUyMTI4NjBXTkFJODdUMCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl