tranders 0 #1 Posted June 26, 2009 I have a 653 with a 8 HP Kohler(not original) that just zings the rpms. I've made all the advised adjustments to no avail. Would like to see a picture of how the throttle cable hooks into the governor assembly. Hoping I won't have to tear into it to fix an internal problem. Thanks for the help! Rob in central Indiana. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #2 Posted June 26, 2009 Loosen the pinch bolt in the governor arm and pull the arm off of the shaft. Rotate the shaft with your fingers and observe how far it turns. If it turns around without stopping, the tab is broke off and the shaft will need replaced. (partial disassembly of the engine is required) You've probably already seen this in the Kohler manual, but here is roughly how the cable attaches: The tractors with the push-pull control cables actually had a small tab welded to the side of the control disc to coincide with the longer travel of the cable. If the tab isn't there, (cable hooked into the disc like in the above illustration) very little movement of the knob will make a large difference in rpm. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #3 Posted June 27, 2009 The shaft doesn't move either way very much and the cable is hooked into a tab on the control disc. Is it possibly something internal? I've also checked that the throttle plate on the carb is still intact. Main jet neddle is in good shape. Thanks so much for the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VinsRJ 721 #4 Posted June 28, 2009 The only way to be sure if its internal or not is to remove the govenor arm and throttle linkage. Then grasp the govenor shaft sticking out of the brass govenor bushing. If it free spins then the internal arm has come apart and the oil pan has to be removed to look inside at minimun. If there is a 1/4 to 1/2 rotation of the shaft with solid "stops" in both directions you are most likely good internally and adjustment from ground zero by way of the manual instructions is needed. Should you need to replace the govenor shaft the crank and cam have to be taken out. Its really tight in there and the last govenor shaft replacement I had to do, I just ended up freshing the whole motor seeing the crank and cam had to come out in order to get "in deep" enough to replace the govenor shaft. I have a factory manual for the k181 so if you need to see it let me know, I can scan it on Monday at work and e-mail the info you need. You can PM me your e-mail addy if you like. Vince Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abrown0920 0 #5 Posted June 28, 2009 I can attest that it is possible to install a new governor arm without taking out the cam and crankshaft. It's a pain in the you know what and may have been quicker to take apart but it is possible. The new arm I bought was about 1/4" longer than the orignial and I had to trim it down to get it in but I did it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 13 #6 Posted June 28, 2009 While you are in there if it has a plastic governor gear.....replace it.If you are lucky enough to find a cast gear your good to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #7 Posted June 29, 2009 Thanks for all the suggestions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #8 Posted August 27, 2009 Finally got a chance to tear into my K181 and found a mechanical problem. The governor gear wasn't even in contact with the cam gear. What keeps the governor gear on the stub shaft? Whats the purpose of the stop pin? The good news is the tab is still on the governor shaft. lol I have a copy of the service manual,but the picture quality is terrible. Thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #9 Posted August 28, 2009 I think my problem is the thrust washer has disappeared. More to follow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #10 Posted August 28, 2009 The stop pin is what keeps the governor gear on the stub shaft. Once the gear is in place, the stop pin (nothing more than a screw with a long skinny end) is screwed into the threaded hole beside the governor shaft bushing and the protruding end crosses in front of the gear and keeps it from coming off the stub shaft. The thrust washer gets installed on the governor cross shaft before installing the brass bushing nut. It's purpose is to create a bearing surface and prohibit wear of the end of the bushing nut by the tab on the cross shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #11 Posted August 29, 2009 With the stop pin installed I can still push the governor gear off the shaft. I'm starting to think this is the wrong gear or wrong stop pin. Thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 13 #12 Posted August 29, 2009 I have a 10hp that as soon as I got it together and started it the gear came off the stub shaft.All I did was fish the gear back in place and give the stub shaft a smack with a hammer and punch to move it in a little closer and it has run fine since then. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tranders 0 #13 Posted September 5, 2009 I installed a new governor gear tonight and the problem is resolved. The old gears dimensions weren't even close to the new gear. Thanks to all who have helped me with this problem. :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
