kpinnc 13,106 #1 Posted February 3, 2022 I only have one running tractor with a Delco/Remy starter generator- my 867. I have a 701 that hasn't been touched since I got it. One day I'll tackle that one. Anyway, my 867 cranks quick and runs like a top. But lately the starter generator had a growl to it, and it had some vibration the last time I drove it. So I decided to swap out a spare I picked up years ago until I could rebuild it. My luck is never that good... The spare was almost an inch narrower. I have no idea what it came from. So much for a direct swap. So I opened up the 867 s/g. There isn't much to them. I found the front bearing missing balls and half the cage was mangled. The bottom bearing needed grease, but was otherwise OK. Brushes were about 1/2 worn, but fine for now. So I opened up the spare, and stole a bearing. Cleaned out the grime, packed them with grease, and put her all back together. Also added a quick disconnect, as I do with all my machines. There is no more fear of welding a wrench to the belt guard now. Charging, battery tending, or even swapping batteries now is quick and easy. No more fireworks. Yes, I know about disconnecting the ground first. Still hard to get the battery out without sparks. So now she cranks and runs smooth as butter. No strange sounds whatsoever. Guess I'll put a rebuild kit on the maintenance list for summer. Right now she's back in the lineup! 2 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,711 #2 Posted February 3, 2022 Nice work on that. Use what ya have! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,747 #3 Posted February 3, 2022 Nice - rebuild kit with brushes and bearings available on the 'bay. Bill 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,192 #4 Posted February 3, 2022 8 hours ago, kpinnc said: The spare was almost an inch narrower. I have no idea what it came from. I know that Briggs used the shorter S/G on their vertical shaft engines. 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 39,737 #5 Posted February 3, 2022 It looks like a 1" spacer under the rear mount bracket would make the spare fit. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 13,106 #6 Posted February 3, 2022 13 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said: It looks like a 1" spacer under the rear mount bracket would make the spare fit. But the spare is an inch shorter than the mounting bracket on the K181. I'd have to cut the bracket. Not going to do that. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,923 #7 Posted February 3, 2022 1 hour ago, Achto said: I know that Briggs used the shorter S/G on their vertical shaft engines. Yeah that one was off a Briggs vertical. Since most of my herd has a SG I always have a rebuilt spare on the shelf and replace bearings in them alot. Odd thing is I'll put a tractor away in the fall, get it out in the spring and the front bearing will have a whine to it. Oh well the bearings are a real common one and I seldom replace the brushes. I was always going to do an instructional on overhauling them and have all the pics just need to get off my keester and do it! Yep yer fingers are gonna be black for awhile! 2 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 13,106 #8 Posted February 3, 2022 4 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Nice work on that. Use what ya have! Hated to cannibalize a smooth starter, bit it wasn't gonna work anywhere else! 4 minutes ago, WHX?? said: Yep yer fingers are gonna be black for awhile! I look like I've been mining coal with fingernails as my only tool! Gonna just have to wear out! 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,711 #9 Posted February 3, 2022 3 minutes ago, kpinnc said: mining coal with fingernails Sounds like a bit of a slow process but do whatever works.... 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,923 #10 Posted February 3, 2022 3 minutes ago, kpinnc said: I've been mining coal with fingernails That really is the hardest thing about rebuilding them.... cleaning off the carbon dust! You will go thru a couple of cans! 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,711 #11 Posted February 3, 2022 3 minutes ago, WHX?? said: That really is the hardest thing about rebuilding them.... cleaning off the carbon dust! You will go thru a couple of cans! Jim you just use a regular brake parts cleaner spray to clean out a K341 starter too? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,923 #12 Posted February 3, 2022 Norm at I Save Tractors has a good vid on doing them but he does not get nowhere near as anal as I do. He also offers the kits. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,923 #13 Posted February 3, 2022 Just now, ebinmaine said: Jim you just use a regular brake parts cleaner spray to clean out a K341 starter too? Yep ... I got this thing about putting them (field coils) in a parts cleaner so just lots of brake cleaner & compressed air. do the blow gun thing outside if possible .. you will have a dust cloud! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 69,711 #14 Posted February 3, 2022 1 minute ago, WHX?? said: Yep ... I got this thing about putting them (field coils) in a parts cleaner so just lots of brake cleaner & compressed air. do the blow gun thing outside if possible .. you will have a dust cloud! I've got one that looks pretty clean. How much air pressure for the hose blow out? Full? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,923 #15 Posted February 3, 2022 My shop air is regulated down to 70-80- psi so that's what I use. According to OSHA... yep that small town in WI.... not supposed to have over 30 psi shop air but who am I to follow regulations! 1 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,747 #16 Posted February 3, 2022 Nice job undercutting the mica between the contact pads - gives the brush dust and any grit a place to go. Reminds me of being back in Automotive Trade Shop School in the early '70's doing the same to late 50's and early 60's car generators - only thing missing is the "growler" to check for shorted windings.... Bill 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,923 #17 Posted February 3, 2022 1 minute ago, ri702bill said: only thing missing is the "growler" to check for shorted windings.... Saw one at a tractor show flea market once & shoulda got it! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenneth R Cluley 567 #18 Posted February 3, 2022 Just check those rebuild kits, some have rollers for both front and rear some have a sleeve and a roller. Some have both sets. Just rebuilt mine for my K181. Remember OSHA forced the manufacturers to make those 30PSI compliant blow guns, not worth using IMHO. Still have my old style with rubber nozzle housing, great for blowing out carbs, etc. Blows whatever psi the regulator set at. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,181 #19 Posted February 3, 2022 (edited) Couple of questions based on your one picture. The wire from the regulator F terminal Should go to the F terminal on the genny and there are no other wires on that post.. Yours seems to have 2. (Also I can't read the stamped letter on you Genny but on mine the A terminal is to the front the F to the rear. The wire from under the Regulator (Gen or Arm) should go to the A terminal on the genny and that terminal will also have the power feed from the switch. That wire should be 6 ga or heavier. Yours looks kind of thin. Is your system charging OK? Based on the S/Gs I have the green marked wire should go to the back terminal the Yellow one to the front. Your red wire should be 6ga or bigger. Edited February 3, 2022 by pfrederi 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,941 #20 Posted February 3, 2022 702 came with a shorter generator 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,941 #21 Posted February 3, 2022 23 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Couple of questions based on your one picture. The wire from the regulator F terminal Should go to the F terminal on the genny and there are no other wires on that post.. Yours seems to have 2. (Also I can't read the stamped letter on you Genny but on mine the A terminal is to the front the F to the rear. The wire from under the Regulator (Gen or Arm) should go to the A terminal on the genny and that terminal will also have the power feed from the switch. That wire should be 6 ga or heavier. Yours looks kind of thin. Is your system charging OK? Based on the S/Gs I have the green marked wire should go to the back terminal the Yellow one to the front. Your red wire should be 6ga or bigger. Regulator is also mounted backwards. Makes it look weird. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 49,923 #22 Posted February 3, 2022 3 hours ago, squonk said: Regulator is also mounted backwards. Makes it look weird. Yep ...some are not comfortable with the terminals dang near touching a gas tank on the short frames. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,181 #23 Posted February 3, 2022 I had to mount one of mine that way also. of more concern is the apparent miswiring and the inadequate Gauge feed wire 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,941 #24 Posted February 3, 2022 (edited) HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! came equipped with some insulation tape on the gas tank. I added some to my 1075 and 1467. If your adjusting the belt you should have the battery disconnected anyway. Use the right belt. If the regulator hits the tank when in use, you got issues. Edited February 3, 2022 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 8,747 #25 Posted February 3, 2022 17 minutes ago, squonk said: Use the right belt. If the regulator hits the tank when in use, you got issues That would be THERMAL issues on a metal tank like a 502 or 702 ..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
