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Bronco 14 motion lever

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gt14rider

So should I put the rust back on

20200215_191027.jpg

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Jeff-C175
47 minutes ago, gt14rider said:

should I put the rust back on

 

No!  but you might wanna tighten that loose locknut!

 

image.png.0919aaff09f9b07874fa72f98f54d5e9.png

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pfrederi

That spring is a whole lot looser than any of my several working Sunstrands...  Aren't any of them that clean or nice looking either...but they work:P

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Snoopy11
42 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

No!  but you might wanna tighten that loose locknut!

:text-yeahthat:

 

Easy peasy...

 

@gt14rider ...you da' man!!! :banana-dance:

 

Don

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Horse Newbie
21 hours ago, kpinnc said:

Feel free to think I don't change the fluid in it every 60K.

I’ve had an experienced mechanic tell me ( my transmission is not sealed in my 98 1500 Z-71 Silverado ) to NOT change the transmission fluid in a vehicle that has not had regular transmission service. He says if you do the new fluid can cause problems.. just add if , and when needed to keep at full mark.

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Horse Newbie
3 hours ago, gt14rider said:

So should I put the rust back on

20200215_191027.jpg

Let it sit outside and Mother Nature will do it for you .  :lol:

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kpinnc
36 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I’ve had an experienced mechanic tell me ( my transmission is not sealed in my 98 1500 Z-71 Silverado ) to NOT change the transmission fluid in a vehicle that has not had regular transmission service. He says if you do the new fluid can cause problems.. just add if , and when needed to keep at full mark.

 

Agreed, once the vehicle has high miles without the fluid change. The grit in the fluid supposedly is what the clutche faces grip one another with, and removing it can make them slip. 

 

I'm not sure I could sleep soundly in that situation. I think many mechanics take the easy way out. I think draing the sump and refilling (only gets a portion of the fluid) after cleaning the filter screens or replacing it if you can makes more sense. If you overheat the transmission you aren't going to have a choice anyway. Burnt fluid is about as useful as maple syrup.

Edited by kpinnc
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gt14rider
3 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

No!  but you might wanna tighten that loose locknut!

 

image.png.0919aaff09f9b07874fa72f98f54d5e9.png

Got to lube it first

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Snoopy11
22 minutes ago, gt14rider said:

Got to lube it first

:banana-linedance:

 

Don

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sgtsampay
On 1/31/2022 at 6:43 PM, daveoman1966 said:

Inasmuch as the FRICTION COLLAR isn't to be lubed at all, it must also be stated...as we all know...that oil or any type of lube on DRY PARTS is nothing less than a DIRT MAGNET serving no other purpose. ---Dirt helps to wear out parts prematurely.---  There is a TUNNEL COVER on the mtion control apparatus for a reason...to keep dirt & shi_ out.  Oil everything up is pointless and may well be to the detriment of function...or longevity...or both.  Some even advocate for lube on the nylon CAM and associated parts (124, 129, 130, 131 in pic).  There, again, this is all part of the FRICTION CONTROL system ...oil or any lube defeats the nature of FRICTION.         

CAM.JPG

So do I lube this up with like silicon spray or something? My lever somethings is sticky and now 100% smooth also.. Any advise? ITs a C-160 sunstrand. 

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Snoopy11
1 hour ago, sgtsampay said:

silicon spray

Yeah, you could use WD-40 silicone spray...

 

I would most recommend some 3M silicone lubricant (dry type). :)

 

Don

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sgtsampay
3 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Yeah, you could use WD-40 silicone spray...

 

I would most recommend some 3M silicone lubricant (dry type). :)

 

Don

Thank you! I will find some and use that. :) 

 

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953 nut
9 hours ago, sgtsampay said:

So do I lube this up with like silicon spray or something? My lever somethings is sticky and now 100% smooth also.. Any advise? ITs a C-160 sunstrand. 

I have used dry graphite spray on the plastic cam follower with good results.

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Wheelhorse#1

Off topic here…but does anyone know the size of the tension screw that adjust tension on the plastic cam follower are? 
I bought 10 32 1” screws and they are just a hair too big.Now I have a bag of 50 from Mc master anyone need some ? 🤬

They we’re cheap,maybe that’s the problem.?

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Wheelhorse#1
On 1/31/2022 at 9:38 PM, kpinnc said:. 

. My neutral is a bit off so I may be digging into that one soon. 


Any idea what it may be? I have the same problem,just a hair off on neutral.Even after doing the cam  adjustment.

Im guessing it’s going to be internal O- ring maybe or broken spring  or  ball valve ...

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Wheelhorse#1
On 1/31/2022 at 9:38 PM, kpinnc said:

. My neutral is a bit off so I may be digging into that one soon. 


Any idea what it may be? I have the same problem,just a hair off on neutral.Even after doing the cam  adjustment.

Im guessing it’s going to be internal O- ring maybe or broken spring  or  stuck ball valve ...

Edited by Wheelhorse#1
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Wheelhorse#1
On 2/1/2022 at 4:51 PM, Jeff-C175 said:

 

No!  but you might wanna tighten that loose locknut!

 

image.png.0919aaff09f9b07874fa72f98f54d5e9.png

It looks like its off the tractor assembly 

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kpinnc
2 hours ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:


Any idea what it may be? I have the same problem,just a hair off on neutral.Even after doing the cam  adjustment.

 

Hoping mine is a cam adjustment. We will see.

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Wheelhorse#1
On 1/30/2022 at 7:22 PM, daveoman1966 said:

Common problem on most hydros... The easy fix is this:  Drill a 1/8" (or less) hole in the BRAKE return ROD.  Insert a little cotter pin in that hole, bend it over, and hook a small SPRING to that cotter pin.  Other end of spring hooks conveniently to a NOTCH in the hoodstand...  This is my C-160 Auto. ( Bronco 14 is same) with FIX APPLIED...took about 15 minutes.  310652873_sprc-160(3).JPG.51372df3a198c14081206eb6319528ca.JPG


Dave 

Where is the spring located ? I checked my 74 auto and there isn’t one or is this just a add on ? 

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squonk
5 minutes ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:


Dave 

Where is the spring located ? I checked my 74 auto and there isn’t one or is this just a add on ? 

That is an add on. The stock spring is inside the tunnel, usually broken and a PITA to reinstall if it isn't

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Wheelhorse#1
1 hour ago, squonk said:

That is an add on. The stock spring is inside the tunnel, usually broken and a PITA to reinstall if it isn't

Thanks.That whole break pedal system is wonky, not really a break cause it just throws trans in neutral.

 

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peter lena

@Horse Newbie  actually you are lucky , you have a radiator atf coolant return line access and a dip stick fill tube , look up , radiator , atf  cooler line trans flush , it flushes out the torque converter , thats pumping out your trans fluid , 2 qts at a time . did this for years . used mobil specific trans fluid . lots of related info.  you must have a auto trans dip stick to do this , pete

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Horse Newbie
10 hours ago, kpinnc said:

 

Hoping mine is a cam adjustment. We will see.

I tried and tried to adjust my cam to keep my 1994 520H from trying to “creep” forward while in neutral… got it ALMOST perfect.

 

Will it hurt anything if it’s not DEAD ON perfect ?  It’s mainly just enough now to barely notice, and a little annoying…

Edited by Horse Newbie

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kpinnc
2 hours ago, Horse Newbie said:

Will it hurt anything if it’s not DEAD ON perfect ?  It’s mainly just enough now to barely notice, and a little annoying…

 

No, it won't hurt anything. Some folks like to use the parking brake, and if there is significant creep it could certainly put the brake and pump working against the other. But typically very little or very slow creep won't be more than annoying.

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gt14rider
15 hours ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

It looks like its off the tractor assembly 

Pic is from a mockup, like Jeff- C175 said a little dab of  brake caliper grease 96, 101, 105 wouldn't hert.the spring is 109. Put some bushings at pivot points to pedal. Maybe a little overkill. This is a GT14 setup but should be similar.  Gt14 project put on back burner when covid hit. Then my back decided short circuit, it has not been fun, nerve pain sucks.

Screenshot_20220205-095002_Gallery.jpg

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