New to me 753

[WHX?? 48,392]

Guard should have a tab as circled. They can get bent or worn. I had to weld it abit and smooth it out where the tab grabs the belt. 

Belt is a 1576/9691 or 70"  with 1/2 top width or a 4L70 

[Redav72 227]

Putting on the belt guard did the trick.  Just finished a nice ride around the neighborhood with no grinding.  The front end is super poppy when I engage, I'll adjust the brake lever position to see if I can even it out a bit (would also like to add some weight to the front as I'm a pretty good sized fellow and it feels like I'm going to flip it).

[wallfish 16,876]

Good news!

A new belt and a clean smooth engine pulley should ease it in on the taking off.

It shouldn't grab immediately and pop the front unless you try to do it.

Use a cloth covered belt and not a rubber belt.

[Redav72 227]

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

Good news!

A new belt and a clean smooth engine pulley should ease it in on the taking off.

It shouldn't grab immediately and pop the front unless you try to do it.

Use a cloth covered belt and not a rubber belt.

Should I sand the pulley?  I took a wire brush to it already.

[wallfish 16,876]

7 hours ago, Redav72 said:

Should I sand the pulley?  I took a wire brush to it already.

As long as the groove is clean, it's good. Rust, paint etc will cause it to grab quickly.

[Handy Don 11,984]

10 hours ago, Redav72 said:

Should I sand the pulley?  I took a wire brush to it already.

I have used a soft wire brush. The coarse or hard wire ones will scratch.

My go-to is "shoe shining" with fine cloth-backed emory paper (the coarse version at HD et al leaves scratches)

 

3 hours ago, wallfish said:

As long as the groove is clean, it's good. Rust, paint etc will cause it to grab quickly.

Yep. And cause premature wear to the belt in addition to throwing you off the back .

[WHX?? 48,392]

12 hours ago, wallfish said:

pop the front unless you try to do it.

And you know this how? 

Get seat time on it that will wear the pullys in. Did you get a new belt? 

[Redav72 227]

Still making good progress, the new belt came in this week and I'll install it tomorrow.  Anyone know where I can find a standard bar hitch that would work with the existing slot hitch?  I'd like to hook my trailer up to it.

[Handy Don 11,984]

Wheel horse parts and more might (usually on the classifieds/vendor page, but it doesn't seem to be working right now)

[Redav72 227]

Is it possible to install a bar hitch and slot hitch simultaneously?  

[JPWH 6,018]

[WHX?? 48,392]

 

When running just a draw bar there are two spacers on the hitch pin. The slot hitch takes the place of those spacers. 

Edited March 27, 2022 by WHX??

[Handy Don 11,984]

8 hours ago, WHX?? said:

When running just a draw bar there are two spacers on the hitch pin. The slot hitch takes the place of those spacers. 

 

So if you have only a slot hitch, you have "the short pin" and to mount both you need "the long pin". 

Someone will know the length--I'm not near one to measure right now!

[rjg854 11,270]

Same pin works for both applications, as mentioned spacers are used for just the drawbar.

[peter lena 8,528]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

@Redav72 yup , I  would say you have the horse addiction , those horse related thoughts , verify that . another thing , at that build  state . take advantage of how things move and function , are they stiff and clumsy ?  thats what got me really drawn in . often just added washers and lubrication , would firm up  a lever rod pull / push . don't be afraid  to improve an obvious trouble area. anything that functions , detail in its  operation , this is only a recommendation . that belt guard  is a perfect related function point. increase your chassis grounding , even older basic models can benefit from it . battery bolt to cable dash area , add cable to engine / frame  , then on to ignition grounding and headlights . this makes a main line for any needed grounding . like your project , good going , pete

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2REDAV72

[Handy Don 11,984]

4 hours ago, rjg854 said:

Same pin works for both applications, as mentioned spacers are used for just the drawbar.

I just replaced the original, standard equipment slot hitch on my 854 with a drawbar and spacers. I needed a longer pin.

Edited March 27, 2022 by Handy Don

[Redav72 227]

I've got a running tractor!  (and I pulled the wagon out and gave the kids a hayride with the Charger 12)

 

Couple of observations:  I  spent a lot more money on dead-ends than I intended.  A carb kit and fuel pump kit ($60) ended up being replaced with a new carb and a new fuel pump, bought some tools (stripped bolt remover) that ended up not achieving the goal I had for them.  However, a new belt did wonders and a used Craftsman drill I picked up at the local resale shop ($8) ended up being my MVP.  Tractor was $200 and I think I've put around $200 in to the project so far so the next step is that hydraulic setup and the mowing deck.

 

Both tractors seem to suffer from the same malady, when under heavy load they start to act like they're running out of fuel.  They start this patchy sort of surging until I pull back for a few minutes and then apply the load again.  This afternoon we had to stop the hay-ride in the middle to let the Charger catch it's breath.  The weird thing is that it finished snow season without a problem.

 

I'm definitely interested in picking up that bar hitch but the pin in the transmission case is locked in place, what's the best way to get movement on it?

 

 

 

 

[Handy Don 11,984]

14 hours ago, Redav72 said:

the pin in the transmission case is locked in place, what's the best way to get movement on it?

Ah, one of the big three WH rites of "frozen" passage (getting a hub off an axle, getting the steering wheel off the shaft, and getting a hitch pin out). In your case, it's stuck in one or both of the hitch's arms not in the transmission case itself (the latter being harder to extract, IMHO).

 

A couple of key points:

- Heat, penetrant, and patience are mandatory

- Never hit the end of the pin directly. They are fairly soft metal and the end will "mushroom" making it impossible to push through.

- Some members drill a hole into one end big enough that they can use a hammer and punch to try to move it

- Rust is tenacious stuff and is doubly strong in shear

- Last resort is to sacrifice the pin and cut it on both sides of the transaxle pivot with a hacksaw

 

A couple of weeks ago a helper and I were able to get a large 3-jaw puller (HF) onto a pin stuck in the arms of a slot hitch (the hitch pivoted fine in the transaxle hole). I drilled a 3/16 x ¼" deep hole in one end of the pin to act as a receiver for the puller's center point and was able to work the puller arms around the transaxle onto the flat side of the hitch and snug the jaw ends onto the small flat area next to the pin. It slipped off a couple of times but eventually we got it to stay while we tightened the puller. Over a few hours we heated, applied penetrant, and gradually tightened it up. In the end, a whack on the puller's drive screw moved the pin a bit (at which point the loosened puller fell off and thank goodness for heavy work shoes). After that, a small hole in the other end and a punch/hammer got the pin the rest of the way out. Good luck!

[WHX?? 48,392]

2 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

big three WH rites of "frozen" passage (getting a hub off an axle, getting the steering wheel off the shaft, and getting a hitch pin out).

Got that right.

@Achto has a method for getting them out but it involves drilling & tapping.  First post

 Does the pin move in the tranny or the slot hitch or not at all Phil?  If it moves in the transmission but not in the hitch I have another way to get it out let us know. The pins are expendable we can make you a new one. 

[WHX?? 48,392]

15 hours ago, Redav72 said:

I  spent a lot more money on dead-ends than I intended.

This is why you need to talk to us before those expenditures. More often than not we can send you stuff for not much above the cost of shipping. 

[peter lena 8,528]

@Redav72   , lubricant soak down that slide pin , and tow  something heavy ! all of my attachments are ball hitch , making unit  swapping very easy , none of my 3 pins are stuck , they all slide.  my lawn aerators  , weigh over 150 lbs. apiece  , that pulling and angular movement will move any stuck slide pin . load up the front end of that trailer , and tow it around , keep the pin area soaked with lube. also drift punch and hammer , that pin with use , once it breaks free , spray the rust out of it , I keep my hitch area greasy , never let it rust up , greasy pete   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

@Redav72 yup , I  would say you have the horse addiction , those horse related thoughts , verify that . another thing , at that build  state . take advantage of how things move and function , are they stiff and clumsy ?  thats what got me really drawn in . often just added washers and lubrication , would firm up  a lever rod pull / push . don't be afraid  to improve an obvious trouble area. anything that functions , detail in its  operation , this is only a recommendation . that belt guard  is a perfect related function point. increase your chassis grounding , even older basic models can benefit from it . battery bolt to cable dash area , add cable to engine / frame  , then on to ignition grounding and headlights . this makes a main line for any needed grounding . like your project , good going , pete

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2REDAV72

[Pullstart 62,349]

On 1/30/2022 at 8:03 AM, squonk said:

The electrical box is because of the pump being where it is.

 

I love how the vultures in here try to scarf it before the OP even picks it up! 

Hey @squonk guess what HY2 system I have now   @Redav72 it was great meeting you this afternoon!  @WHX?? thanks for your photos too, helps explain how it all goes together on a machine.  One issue.  I thought of Putt Putt first, but that pesky hi-lo shifter is in the way!

 

 

[Redav72 227]

And as advertised, the burger was pretty good.  So did you do that paint job with rattle cans?

[Pullstart 62,349]

20 minutes ago, Redav72 said:

And as advertised, the burger was pretty good.  So did you do that paint job with rattle cans?

Those burgers sure are yum!  That paint job was a rattle can indeed.  That’s the one that still had wet paint smell in PA!  

 

This is what it looked like on 6/18/2018… and I left for the big show on the morning of 6/20.

[Lane Ranger 10,881]

On 2/5/2022 at 6:57 PM, Redav72 said:

Nope, regrettably.  But if anyone has a buddy for it I'd be happy to drop it in the mail.

fuel tank is aluminum so just needs cleaned.  The light you have is a valuable item so be aware of that.   Often go for more than $50.