Winter fun - Project “Freedom” 440cc 2 Stroke 1054 Snowmotractor

[Pullstart 62,849]

2 hours ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

If you changed to an 8-speed transaxle.

I was thinking about using an 8 speed also, just for the ease of using the extra brake shaft gear reduction  with @Oldskool’s power transmission method below to correct the incorrect rotation. 

 

On 1/15/2023 at 12:41 AM, Oldskool said:

It's unfortunate the reduction is so low.

Excuse the drawing but I was hoping this would help.

I think my goal right now is to set up the jackshaft on the frame, and get the engine aligned correctly.  I either need to cut the battery box out of the machine and trim some other stuff to make room for the secondary clutch, or move the engine to the right.  I think moving sounds easier.  This transmission was said to have been rebuilt before I got it, and I like the axle width.  I’ll need to retain those axles, no matter what transmission I choose if I keep a Wheel Horse transmission.

[Pullstart 62,849]

At minimum, the engine needs to move to the right 1.25”.  The outside of the secondary measures 3.25” from the air cooling shroud on the engine on a parallel.

 

I can easily clamp a fence to the frame in front of the engine, slide it over and re-drill the mounts.  

[Pullstart 62,849]

I got it slid over about 3” and bolted it down.  All kinds of room for whatever now.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,849]

5 hours ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

BK40X1

 

5 hours ago, Wild Bill 633 said:

BK26X3/4 

 

Do you know of a source for steel pulleys in this flavor, or would I need to make them on a lathe based on specs?  It looks like there are 4 belt options for those pulleys (4L, 5L, A, or B) would you suppose a rubber automotive or circle track race car belt would be optimal, for grip and for flexibility or keep with a Kevlar garden tractor belt for some available slip as you mentioned in your voicemail?

[Pullstart 62,849]

I drew up some tabs to hold the carriers in place.  I might have them laser cut if the shop has time, but might just mill them.  Please disregard the apx. 2” distance on two holes, though they are supposed to be on a 1.5” radius. 

 

 

[Wild Bill 633 845]

See the attached pages from a Browning sheave catalog. The BS26 is bar steel. The BS40 is stamped steel and the BK40 is cast iron. I would suggest having one machined from bar steel.

I will look at belts tomorrow.

[Pullstart 62,849]

Got a picture today 

[Pullstart 62,849]

Shop night!

 

 

[Pullstart 62,849]

Oh boy oh boy oh boy!

 

Things are tacked up for the jackshaft!  Now, I need to do some serious planning of one more reduction be it the input shaft or the brake shaft.

 

I left the left side bearing support wider than the right side on purpose.  It fits best with the exhaust pipe there, plus gives options for secondary reduction on a shaft if need be.

[Pullstart 62,849]

Ok.  I made an order on Zoro.  I’m driving the brake shaft.  My calculations say 60 or 65 mph.  I am guessing 50 will be realistic.  I’m running a belt off the secondary shaft.  It will go to another jackshaft mounted with flange style pillow block bearings, running a 20t sprocket to a 40t sprocket on the brake shaft.  
 

I was on the phone with @Wild Bill 633, bench racing if you will.  During our conversation, I popped the right side tire off and noticed the input shaft is quite wobbly.  This will eliminate a couple shafts, rotating parts, etc, inside the transmission.  I’ll be able to plug the unused holes if I want.  No shifter, no gears.  Like a snowmobile, I’ll have go and don’t go.  Whew!  
 

Mathin’ scribbles all around… got me what I need.  I think.

Edited January 28, 2023 by Pullstart

[Wild Bill 633 845]

9 hours ago, Pullstart said:

I popped the right side tire off and noticed the input shaft is quite wobbly.

The transmission input shaft bearing failure is due to the force of the CVT driver trying to pull the shaft forward during the CVT motion. This force on the input shaft will be moved to the driven CVT and jackshaft and will no longer exist on the transmission input shaft.

Edited January 28, 2023 by Wild Bill 633

[Pullstart 62,849]

My second jackshaft arrived today!  Now to wait on the Zoro order for the bearings, chains, pulleys and sprockets!

[Pullstart 62,849]

 

[Pullstart 62,849]

I found a nifty mechanical brake caliper for a go kart for $32 or so on the jungle site.  It’ll be here tomorrow.  Monkeying around in the barn when @Blasterdad was here the other day, I found a go kart jack shaft with some big sprockets on it.  The largest of the sprockets will be utilized as a brake rotor!  If possible, it’ll go between the frame rails on the new jackshaft.  

[Achto 27,570]

Just throwing this out there. If you are driving off from the brake shaft with a chain, would there be room on that sprocket to install a caliper for the brakes?

[Pullstart 62,849]

2 minutes ago, Achto said:

Just throwing this out there. If you are driving off from the brake shaft with a chain, would there be room on that sprocket to install a caliper for the brakes?

maybe.  It’ll be tight, we’ll have to see.  If fitment were not an issue, would you prefer to place the caliper inside the chain, or the chain inside the caliper?  
 

I think for damage prevention, the inside (blue area) would be my choice.

 

 

[Achto 27,570]

1 hour ago, Pullstart said:

Would you prefer to place the caliper inside the chain

 

The blue area would be the best. I have seen it done this way on other equipment. One other bonus would be still having brakes in the possible event that you would have a chain failure. Plus it would eliminate one more jack shaft.

Edited January 30, 2023 by Achto

[Pullstart 62,849]

15 minutes ago, Achto said:

Plus it would eliminate one more jack shaft.

I need one more jack shaft anyway, to slow the secondary clutch shaft down.  I can’t achieve it with just one gear set.

 

The sprocket/rotor would ride on this shaft, between the frame rails of the tractor.

[Blasterdad 2,692]

8 hours ago, Pullstart said:

 Monkeying around in the barn when @Blasterdad was here the other day,

 

                                                             

 

                            

[Pullstart 62,849]

Zoro parts arrived!  
 

I know for a while @SylvanLakeWH was keeping dollars and cents on this build.  With the secondary jackshaft and other items, I’m adding another $215.86 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,555]

24 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Zoro parts arrived!  
 

I know for a while @SylvanLakeWH was keeping dollars and cents on this build.  With the secondary jackshaft and other items, I’m adding another $215.86 

 

 

You're up to what... $219.86...? Outrageous... 

[wallfish 16,995]

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/

They have the keyed shafts, sprockets, chain, bearings etc etc

Compare what you ordered to the cost on here.

You can go to town on this site for the majority of custom build stuff. Even get some inspiration for other things.

[Pullstart 62,849]

4 minutes ago, wallfish said:

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/

They have the keyed shafts, sprockets, chain, bearings etc etc

Compare what you ordered to the cost on here.

You can go to town on this site for the majority of custom build stuff. Even get some inspiration for other things.

I did look there, but not everything was available.  Little did I know, my 40T sprocket is about 2.5” too big to fit!  

[wallfish 16,995]

7 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

I did look there, but not everything was available.  Little did I know, my 40T sprocket is about 2.5” too big to fit!  

Hit the trans case?

[Pullstart 62,849]

2 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Hit the trans case?

big time.  I found more pulleys that can get me the 2:1 I need.

 

thoughts on running a smooth tensioner on the back of a v-belt?  I imagine if it’s close enough to a pulley, it’ll stay right true.