Winter fun - Project “Freedom” 440cc 2 Stroke 1054 Snowmotractor

[Pullstart 62,782]

Engine is in, front end is all bolted down tight.  Everything is coming together so well!

 

I’ll pop the rear tires off and work on brakes, trans pulley keyway , fuel line and trans lube.

 

 

[Pullstart 62,782]

On 1/27/2022 at 7:31 PM, 8ntruck said:

Remember the horsepower rule - if some is good, more is better, and too much is just enough.

I applied this rule to zip ties and cdi box mounting.  

probably should have put studs on from the back side when I cleaned the mice out…

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,782]

So close!

 

Belt guides

Finish fuel system

Brake rod

lug bolts

More 2 stroke oil

Test ride!

[Handy Don 12,131]

On 2/9/2022 at 12:25 PM, Pullstart said:

Lots of little braces to go, but the Snowmotractor is sitting, on it’s own weightbearings, with support to the trailing arms.  I’m calling this a small victory!  @Handy Don the frame is 1/4” thick 2” angle iron and the F plate is 3/8” thick FYI.  Because of some frame modifications done, I’ve made the choice to not have this alterable back to stock front end components.  For that reason, I’ve done some welding to the frame today.  

You got me very curious and, since today is a bit warmer, I gathered my ruler and calipers and headed out for a "frame check".

 

'95 520: 6 ¾" outside, 2 x 2 x ¼" rails; F-plate = ¼"

 

854: 6 ¾" outside, 2 x 2 x 9/32" rails (checked in two places!); F-plate = 5/32" (and cracked!)

 

So the 1054 vs 854 differences are the extra 7/32" (to ⅜") at the F-plate and the wider (8") rail spacing. Both of those will help a lot with resisting twist. (I'm considering the 1/32" difference on the rail thickness a tolerance range.)

 

I'm enjoying following your progress. The triangulating of the struts should be adequate for keeping the front end pointed straight ahead, but am not convinced on leaving it all on the frame ahead of the F plate.

[Pullstart 62,782]

2 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

 

I'm enjoying following your progress. The triangulating of the struts should be adequate for keeping the front end pointed straight ahead, but am not convinced on leaving it all on the frame ahead of the F plate.

Thanks Don!  There’s one way to find out how well it’ll hold up.  Run it hard!  Hopefully I can get it buttoned up before the weekend.  If not, soon after!

[Handy Don 12,131]

Just now, Pullstart said:

Thanks Don!  There’s one way to find out how well it’ll hold up.  Run it hard!  Hopefully I can get it buttoned up before the weekend.  If not, soon after!

Agreed. I do tend to overthink and overbuild sometimes as though I were building the Pyramids or something. 

[Pullstart 62,782]

It moves…

 

 

[Pullstart 62,782]

Whips pretty good donuts too!

 

 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

I need video of said behavior...

 

 

Don

[Pullstart 62,782]

It behaves 

[Snoopy11 5,714]

1 minute ago, Pullstart said:

It behaves

I don't...

 

I WANT VIDEO!!!

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

I am laughing at myself...

 

Don

[Oldskool 6,640]

So awesome. Yes we need a video or a step by step of the maiden trip. 

 

Wait it's been almost an hour since Kevin's last post.

 

Was it made from the back of an

Am-bu-lance.

 

Hope everything is ok!!!!🤔🤕🤔

[Pullstart 62,782]

 

[Oldskool 6,640]

Congrats. Great to see it up and moving. 

There is always a bug or 2 but great starting point.  👍👍👍👍

[Pullstart 62,782]

Now it needs a smaller rear pulley and a smooth idle, among other little bits.  Still, a GREAT time!

[wallfish 16,981]

Nice to see it moving !!!!!!!

I'm not familiar with snowmobiles but other variables would clutch or slip the belt at idle because it's not closed enough to grab the belt so it just slips. But when it speeds up the pulley will close and therefore change diameter where the belt rides in it, the faster it spins the more it closes and the belt rides further out from the shaft. The higher the rpm, the bigger the diameter, the faster it will go. If you size the belt like the engine pulley is closed so it's at it's biggest diameter then spring load the belt with an idler to take up the slack for when it opens at idle speed. There will be extra slack with the pulley open at idle so spring loading the slack will give it all the range of that variable pulley as the pulley changes.from small to big with higher rpms.  Without that the belt can only ride in that engine pulley at one certain point when the belt is tight and that's it.

[Snoopy11 5,714]

Merde...

 

I don't think you need to get rid of the clutch... (maybe...)...

 

I think you need to go with a much smaller pulley on the back. What size pulley is on the input shaft of the transmission?

 

Just my opinion...

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,714]

2 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

smaller rear pulley

Kevin... what is your words per minute? You seem to type faster than I do...

 

 

Don

[Pullstart 62,782]

3 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

I think you need to go with a much smaller pulley on the back. What size pulley is on the input shaft of the transmission

it’s 5 or 6 inches.  It’s a hydro pulley I believe.  Way more room to go smaller!  2.5 or 3 inch maybe?

[Snoopy11 5,714]

Just now, Pullstart said:

3 inch

Sick....

 

But if you go any smaller, you will probably need to install an idler pulley... "Slippage... you know"

 

Don

[wallfish 16,981]

Going with a smaller trans pulley will work to speed it up but too small and the belt will slip because of less surface area. especially in snow because it will get wet

A torque converter driven pulley is a 5/8 bore and may fit on that trans shaft. It will basically change diameters in the opposite direction as the engine pulley does so the faster it spins, the smaller the diameter. Front engine gets bigger as the driven pulley gets smaller equals smooth take off and maximum speed. Since both pulleys change the belt length remains the same

[Pullstart 62,782]

Still frames from Momma

[Pullstart 62,782]

2 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

Sick....

 

But if you go any smaller, you will probably need to install an idler pulley... "Slippage... you know"

 

Don

absolutely.  What’s the smallest diameter a 5/8” belt can bend?  

[Pullstart 62,782]

2 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Going with a smaller trans pulley will work to speed it up but too small and the belt will slip because of less surface area. especially in snow because it will get wet

A torque converter driven pulley is a 5/8 bore and may fit on that trans shaft. It will basically change diameters in the opposite direction as the engine pulley does so the faster it spins, the smaller the diameter. Front engine gets bigger as the driven pulley gets smaller equals smooth take off and maximum speed. Since both pulleys change the belt length remains the same

any links on such a pulley?