Snowblower only turns 1 way

[mrmike13 6]

Hi

 

I have a 520H with a 79361 2 stage snowblower. I have the chain disconnected and the auger will only go in reverse. At least it seems to me that it is reverse. 

When I try to go in the other direction, it does not move at all. I have put a lot of pressure on it, and it does not budge.

Any ideas what the issue is?

Bearings, Gearbox ??

 

thank You

 

Mike

[roadapples 6,983]

Remove the belt also, then try again...

[mrmike13 6]

4 minutes ago, roadapples said:

Remove the belt also, then try again...

The snowblower is completely disconnected from the tractor. 

[roadapples 6,983]

OK, for now 

[wallfish 16,986]

The auger should be spinning top to bottom

The paddle, from the front should be spinning counter clockwise

If nothing is obstructing the movement of the augers or paddles then I would start looking at the worm gear gearbox out front for the auger rotation

Best to try and turn it from the big sprocket in the back and not force it by turning the augers because that worm gear isn't designed for that

Does it turn multiple revolutions just one way or to a certain point and stops?

[mrmike13 6]

36 minutes ago, wallfish said:

The auger should be spinning top to bottom

The paddle, from the front should be spinning counter clockwise

If nothing is obstructing the movement of the augers or paddles then I would start looking at the worm gear gearbox out front for the auger rotation

Best to try and turn it from the big sprocket in the back and not force it by turning the augers because that worm gear isn't designed for that

Does it turn multiple revolutions just one way or to a certain point and stops?

That is great information!

It spins both ways turning it by the sprocket. I did not realize, not to turn it by the auger.

I just need the chain tensioner and maybe the sprocket. I have to inspect the sprocket. 

Thanks walfish

[ri702bill 8,294]

7 hours ago, wallfish said:

because that worm gear isn't designed for that

SOME worm gear drives can be back-driven (Old Ariens walk behind snow thrower) others cannot. It depends on the engagement angle of the worm on the sector. The more aggressive the angle, the harder to turn.

Bill

[wallfish 16,986]

The original chain tensioners were wood then plastic and just a block which which rubbed the the outside of the chain loop. Adding an idler sprocket seems to work much better. There are a few threads on her about the upgrade among other things. Here's the one I used because it's small and will fit in that small space fairly easy compared to the common 17 tooth idlers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224568643751?hash=item34495590a7:g:s6sAAOSw5g5hFDdA

Since you're in there check that rear bearing under the big sprocket

[Ed Kennell 38,036]

Maybe Mr. Lube should check in.   You out there Pete? @peter lena

[peter lena 8,588]

@wallfish  refering to @Ed Kennell  am I  out there ? bearing reply to your  bearing ,https://www.ebay.com/itm/174605992319?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200818143230%26  , notice the difference ?  same size sprocket , details , but much bigger bearing  WITH WIDE SHIELDS , FOR EASY , CLEAN OUT AND REGREASE , with lucas x tra duty , simply add a  5/8 x 3/8 bronze bushing , and its an exact size replacement , thats how I  easily look at any bearing replacement , why not up grade that problem while you are there ? never worry about the w/h police , make a problem go away , and make it bombproof .  this bushing insert will make you look at a chronic bearing issue , as a simple fix .  wide side shields and bronze insert , very easy , quiet , solid bearings, pete

[peter lena 8,588]

@Ed Kennell  thanks for the heads up on that ED , running around on snow prep ,this week end . that same size sprocket with a larger bearing is what I  regularly look for , easy pocket screwdriver pop off of side shields, wipe out / carb cleaner flush , lucas x tra hd , chassis grease , bronze insert to 3/8 " , that so easy , have many hours on that set up , no noise or failure , have that on my drive belt pulleys , same idea , duplicate pulley , size / type  with larger bearing , with bronze  3/8 " insert , are you kidding me ?  make a problem go away , pete    

[ri702bill 8,294]

4 hours ago, wallfish said:

Here's the one I used because it's small

I looked at the listing - does not say if the teeth are hardened or not. It would be spinning almost twice as fast as the 17 tooth version ...

Bill

[peter lena 8,588]

@ri702bill recommend  SPECIFIC CHAIN / OPEN GEAR LUBRICANT , for that , never let mine dry out , spray it down before and after use , that faster speed , is demanding an anti sling aerosol  , maybe a  motorcycle  chain lubricant . stay after it , pete  

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,036]

The bearing in the above idler is a 6203 with a 5/8" bore. The same bearing is used in some mower spindles with a 3/4" bore. The bearing OD is metric.

The sprocket is also available with a 6203 bearing having a metric bore. They have flanged bushings to reduce the bore to inch sized mounting bolts.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/idler-sprocket-bushings/product/PA1000001195?skuId=8070674

[peter lena 8,588]

@gwest_ca  BASELINE I USE ON THAT BEARING IS THE GREASE FAILURE , unless specified and found ,you don't know what's in there for lube, this is also a very common ceiling fan Bearing. typically those 6203 ,s start to whine with few hours on them , telling you of lubricant failure . did over my pto mule bearings , same 6203 , with lucas , no noise , no wining , smooth and solid take up .  I often refer to a bearing distributor  in your area , you can walk in there with a problem and look for a cure . tell them what's going on ,and they will give you options . mower deck spindles repacked the same way , the combination spins up so easily , I spin it up slowly , its like effortless , the bronze bushing  , and lubrication upgrade , have eliminated bearing whine / failure for me , pete   

[mrmike13 6]

Thanks for all the replies and information.

I will tear into the snowblower and replace all parts as needed (chain, sprockets, bearings) and do the tensioner sprocket upgrade.

Thanks!!!

[wallfish 16,986]

6 hours ago, peter lena said:

same size sprocket

NOT EVEN CLOSE TO THE SAME SIZE!!!!  Re click on the link I posted and count the teeth. "NOTICE THE DIFFERENCE"?

This idler thing and my response to the original post is concerning a 2 stage blower not an idler for a SS. There was no original sprocket/bearing there on a 2 stage blower for chain tension so not sure how you are looking up that exact replacement bearing. You're easily looking up the wrong thing!. From the factory it was a wood or plastic rubbing tensioner as written before if you read the post. SEE BELOW for the part reference!

The idler I posted is smaller and only a 10 tooth size and more easily fits into that very short small span of chain between the gearbox sprocket and the big sprocket on the back of the blower housing and does so without any contact to any other sprockets or parts. No difficult modifications to add that at all. It's very easy to do. And for only $10 each it's better to replace the whole thing every 10 - 15 years or so than it is to spray that grease crap in it every where and every time before and after when using it. That areas is not easily accessable as it's under a bolted on cover plus mine has the electric chute motor bracket attached there too.

The 17 tooth sprocket exactly like you posted was taken out and replaced with this 10 tooth on purpose because the 17 does not fit as well in that tight space. Plus the 10 tooth holds the chain tension better. Upgrade! This is only an idler sprocket used on the slack side of the chain loop. So without any side load, or any load at all for that matter, there's no need for a big huge bearing and sprocket in there. It's only purpose is to take up the loose slack of the chain and guide it to keep the chain links engaged with the drive sprocket better. If there is slack on the chain it tends to raise out of the teeth grooves of the smaller drive sprocket from centrifugal force and that allows only partial engagement with less teeth of the sprocket.

I've had one of these 10 tooth sprockets for chain tension in my 2 stage for a while now. No problems at all ! IT"S VERY EASY. Super simple. 

Spinning twice as fast as a 17 isn't any issue so far either. Do whatever you want. And like Garry posted, I use steel bushings for changing size of bore on pulleys or sprockets. That's an upgrade to those bronze bushings so you may want to try them.

Not sure why you posted like that with CAPS and all and with the nonsense directed at me by the tag,  like I'm the stupid one ?

 

34 is not a 17 tooth sprocket

[wallfish 16,986]

12 hours ago, ri702bill said:

SOME worm gear drives can be back-driven (Old Ariens walk behind snow thrower) others cannot. It depends on the engagement angle of the worm on the sector. The more aggressive the angle, the harder to turn.

Bill

So can that one BUT it's not designed for doing that. Doing it can be a problem and especially so if it's sticking with resistance as he stated it was. The brass worm gear can break so why force it.

 

7 hours ago, ri702bill said:

I looked at the listing - does not say if the teeth are hardened or not. It would be spinning almost twice as fast as the 17 tooth version ...

Bill

Not a problem for this application