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ebinmaine

Cold weather chainsaw chain oil?

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ebinmaine

Any of you woodcutting folk change chain oil season to season?

 

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Snoopy11

Yes sir. I met an old man who cut down trees for a living... apart from putting up fence and other jobs.

 

ANYHOO... he told me to change from bar and chain oil, and go to 10w-30 motor oil. What I have noticed is that the viscosity of the 10w-30 in the winter is equivalent to bar and chain oil in the summer.

 

Works great for me. :banana-dance:

 

As a side question... do you have a chain sharpener?

 

Don

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WHX??

No...Thin it down with diesel it gets a little stiff. 

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

No...Thin it down with diesel it gets a little stiff. 

Must not take much by percentage?

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ebinmaine
13 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

sharpener

I do. Why?

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Snoopy11
Just now, ebinmaine said:

I do. Why?

Well, I have noticed that some grinding blades don't grind the chains as sharp... thus the chains don't last as long...

 

Timber Tuff grinding wheels seem like the best that I have found. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Don

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ebinmaine
Just now, Snoopy11 said:

Well, I have noticed that some grinding blades don't grind the chains as sharp... thus the chains don't last as long...

 

Timber Tuff grinding wheels seem like the best that I have found. :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

Don

I haven't tried a wheel style electric sharpener like that.

 

I've tried the Dremel style and quite frankly was UNimpressed.

 

I've now gone back to using the good old-fashioned hand file and my own practiced touch which doesn't always work 100% correctly but I'm okay with that. 

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WHX??
3 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Must not take much by percentage?

Not a great lot maybe a cup to a gallon. I just get it to where it pours out the jug. Speaking of jugs ya know what makes a good oil jug for saws EB is the laundry detergent bottles that have the nifty little pour spout on them. 

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Snoopy11
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I haven't tried a wheel style electric sharpener like that.

 

I've tried the Dremel style and quite frankly was UNimpressed.

 

I've now gone back to using the good old-fashioned hand file and my own practiced touch which doesn't always work 100% correctly but I'm okay with that. 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-63803.html

 

I bought the above... although I do have a supposedly "better quality" sharpener than that (I think the brand name of my other one is Oregon). It is in the shop... but I wanted another one closer to the house... so I decided to buy the little guy from HF...

 

I swear... that thing... with a good wheel... works excellently.

 

I have a lot of wood to cut up here on the funny-farm... let alone trees that I am constantly cutting down. So... I can say with certainty... I am satisfied with my chain sharpener...

 

 

Don

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Stormin

  Don't get the sub zero cold like you lads. I just use whatever engine oil I have. SAE30 or 10-30. I do have a chain sharpener I have used once. Like Eric I use a file.

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squonk
29 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Not a great lot maybe a cup to a gallon. I just get it to where it pours out the jug. Speaking of jugs ya know what makes a good oil jug for saws EB is the laundry detergent bottles that have the nifty little pour spout on them. 

What Fragrance do you prefer? Gain seems to be the brand that lasts the longest! :banana-jumprope:

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Jeff-C175
4 minutes ago, squonk said:

the laundry detergent bottles that have the nifty little pour spout on them.

 

:text-yeahthat:

 

Two of them side by side out behind the shop, one with soapy water, and one with fresh water make a dandy hand wash 'station' too... not in the winter of course...

 

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wh500special
34 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

....ya know what makes a good oil jug for saws EB is the laundry detergent bottles...

 

Yeah, but can you use those with non-detergent oils?  :D

 

Steve

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ebinmaine
6 minutes ago, squonk said:

What Fragrance do you prefer? Gain seems to be the brand that lasts the longest! :banana-jumprope:

I'll have to check what brand we have.  

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ebinmaine
38 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Speaking of jugs ya know what makes a good oil jug for saws EB is the laundry detergent bottles that have the nifty little pour spout on them

Speaking of jugs....

Boy I was a bit concerned there.  

 

Man. That laundry pour idea is AWESOME.  

 

 

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Stormin

Why do you need jugs? DT's.? :hide:

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Jeff-C175
2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Speaking of jugs....

Boy I was a bit concerned there.  

 

Man. That laundry pour idea is AWESOME.  

 

 

 

Sure beats tippin' one of these on it's side!

 

image.png.c6bf86b586a83c3151472c9685c120cd.png

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oldlineman

I have found that mechanical (electric) chain saw sharpeners without restraint from the operator can grind down a saw chain prematurely. In my experience with sharpening saw chains it takes very few strokes (3 or 4) with a good saw file to obtain a very sharp cutter unless there is a great deal of damage to the teeth. Also you must continue to check raker teeth heights as you remove material from the cutters. Bob   

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formariz

I too own an electric chain saw sharpener. It is however reserved for when damage to chain occurs. Having great experience with edge tools , the secret is to maintain them and not let cutters go to the point that they are dull. It requires only minutes of touch up and if nothing else is available a file works great. I however like to use the diamond burrs shown below. They maintain their shape unlike the regular burrs which wear and become deformed after a few teeth. They cut fast and leave a good solid edge not a ragged one. I either use them by hand with a Dremel or in a fully guided and controlled Oregon jig that runs off a 12 volt battery. 
99DF49D0-348D-4E81-9F11-AEA9361EE69F.jpeg.4c0f80a4d5a4d69a16f5f3c36a941648.jpeg

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ebinmaine
31 minutes ago, Stormin said:

Why do you need jugs? DT's.? :hide:

I'm almost afraid to ask what that means...

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Snoopy11
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm almost afraid to ask what that means...

I WAS afraid to ask... :bow-blue:

 

Don

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ebinmaine
6 minutes ago, formariz said:

fully guided and controlled Oregon jig

I like the way those cut quite a lot but I tried them by hand and was not happy no matter what angle...

 

What sort of jig rig do you use?

 

 

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Jeff-C175
2 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

what that means

 

If you see these,

 

image.png.35c1fa1bcab44e60bc7285eeabd125e9.png

 

then you've got 'em ( DTs )

 

And a quick cure would be this:

 

image.png.24602250ae6cf10ce18ef6543641e0d2.png

 

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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formariz
1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I like the way those cut quite a lot but I tried them by hand and was not happy no matter what angle...

 

What sort of jig rig do you use?

 

 

Keep in mind that all you are doing with them is really honing the cutting edges. If they are already dull you should resort to a more aggressive cutting method to start with. The idea is to keep touching them up occasionally.

 Sorry it’s a Granberg not Oregon.

EA42A3A9-1372-419C-9159-D29A9E6364CA.jpeg.022ad2a780d847f4619cfb62ddae6a68.jpeg

 

E43F1EB4-7D3F-4169-B16E-E993A7FBC8C7.jpeg.e6c3073b9c6394cb67243d3c95dd615f.jpeg
 

477A4D19-5468-4149-91A8-3958C7AF142A.jpeg.49124b2bbeb1dcace88014e3e3074e34.jpeg

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lynnmor

I have used these for the past 45 years.  I have both the 5/32" and the 7/32" sizes and the .020" and .025" depth gauges.  They work well for me and it is way better than taking chain to a shop and have them wasted in 2 or 3 grindings.  You should have a good bench vise and it is best if it swivels, but you can sharpen at the job site with the saw on a stump.

 

Image 1 - NOS Homelite Chainsaw 5/32" Chain File, Guide & Depth Gauge New Old Stock L-3905

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