5060 transaxle

[tomabrown77 11]

my 1067 stopped moving; limited slip had worn out long ago;  now input pully is turning , but tractor doesnt move --- very slight motion forward or backward if on level ground with no resistance.  Enough to tell me shift lever is actually changing gears.

I suspect input shaft woodruff keys but might be something worse ... i am interested in perhaps buying a new, used,or rebuilt  transaxle if someone has one they would part with.  And any advice on opening up the transaxle and looking inside .  Or where i can find parts to rebuild it myself...

 

ps i was on forum about 5 years ago,  forgot my username so i joined again

Edited January 17, 2022 by tomabrown77
add parts availability to rebuild option

[pfrederi 17,672]

Very possible input pulley woodruff key.  Make a mark across the shat and try moving it does the mark move.  Also check you hubs for slippage,  Bad key there can cause same thing.

 

 

Welcome...

Edited January 17, 2022 by pfrederi

[Achto 27,508]

 

If you find that you have a need to open the transmission, @stevasaurus has made some excellent video's to walk you through.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0WxpigBM-CFt3jm0aCxvxw

 

If you find your self needing replacement parts for your transmission, here is one source.

https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/manual-transmissions/

[stevasaurus 22,711]

If you have not done anything to rip the teeth off of pinions in the differential, it almost has to be a wood ruff key in one of the hubs or the input pulley.  This is the 1st place to look...and the easiest to fix.  Marker lines across the hub and axle will tell you if something is slipping and the same with what was stated above.  Remember, it only takes one key way to be slipping to have what you have.  Check that 1st and let us know.  

   BTW Welcome to Red Square     If it turns out to be something in the transmission, we can walk you though fixing it...it is not hard and all parts are available.  Just in case you want to know what a #5060 looks like inside...check this out.  

 

 

[roadapples 6,983]

[tomabrown77 11]

thanks!   I already checked the input shaft - it is turning with the pulley.  I didnt think to check the wheel hub keys --- since the limited slip has worn out, one of those would produce the same symptom....

[tomabrown77 11]

i did find that parts source -- thanks.... Dont know what i need yet.  .  If it matters, i didnt hear any 'bad metallic' sounds or feel any sudden change.,,, was plowing snow and just lost its 'desire to move'

[tomabrown77 11]

PTL  yoiu guys are Great -- woodruff Key on right drive wheel hub was sheared off. Now i need to buy one and a spare....Thanks!!!

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

6 hours ago, tomabrown77 said:

i need to buy one and a spare

 

Get 10, ya never know!  MIGHT be a #22 but double check first of course!

 

Edited January 18, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[roadapples 6,983]

pull it before you order. I've seen 2 different ones on the same tractor...

[953 nut 55,091]

Any good hardware store should carry  an assortment of Woodruff keys, our Ace has them in stock, bring in the old one to match up.

[tomabrown77 11]

i got tow at HW store -- parts list called for # 15, and putting the two sheared pieces together and measuring, it looks like it is was a # 15.

 I plan on replacing both sides

Edited January 18, 2022 by tomabrown77
add to comment

[tomabrown77 11]

I decided to change the oil in transaxle while i was replacing hub woodruff keys, the spec says 2 qts;  i saw on another thread that 2 qts level is above the side "filler" port/plug.   That doesnt seem logical to me - why have a side plug if the fill level is higher than this plug???  May i make a guess that maybe the 2 qt spec is what the case would hold up to this port without parts inside?  normally transmissions are filled about halfway, rotation of gears spreads it everywhere and the side port is a little above halfway up....

 

 Any thoughts?

 

another question -- are axles seals easily replaced by removing hub, pulling out old seal, and tapping in new one?  then re installing hub/wheels...

Edited January 20, 2022 by tomabrown77
add clarifying phrase

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

5 minutes ago, tomabrown77 said:

are axles seals easily replaced by removing hub, pulling out old seal, and tapping in new one? 

 

Yep, pretty much.  You can use the hub as a 'slide hammer' to drive the seal in square.

 

[pfrederi 17,672]

WH felt that the limited slip 5060 tranny needed more oil to adequately keep the differential lubricated.  Your tranny should have an extension on the level plug (#71/72).  Fill it til it runs out.  I think you will use at least 2 qts.  The over flow others talk about is from other trannies with out the extension.

 

 

Edited January 21, 2022 by pfrederi

[tomabrown77 11]

thanks -- that makes sense --- i didnt think i had the extension, but looking closer i actually do - only about 1/4 inch of part 71 is visible.  took about 1 1/2 Qt to fill to plug. maybe it wasnt completely drained, but i did let it sit and drain to just a drip .

[pfrederi 17,672]

16 minutes ago, tomabrown77 said:

thanks -- that makes sense --- i didnt think i had the extension, but looking closer i actually do - only about 1/4 inch of part 71 is visible.  took about 1 1/2 Qt to fill to plug. maybe it wasnt completely drained, but i did let it sit and drain to just a drip .

There is a lump in the bottom of the transaxle case you have to raise the front of the tractor to get it to drain completely.  If it came out of the plug you are fine...

[WHX?? 48,790]

Late to the party here but sounds like the boys have got you well covered. 

The 5060 is my personal favorite tranny. simple and bullet proof. 

 

[tomabrown77 11]

i still marvel how my 1067 with this 5060 is a 10 times stronger workhorse than newer lawn tractors with supposedly  twice the power....