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ebinmaine

Aluminum for a belt guard/guide ?

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ebinmaine

I'm no metallurgist. 

I need to make a couple belt guard guides for the Colossus project. It'll be "open concept" with only the belt covered and supported leaving the middle space open except possibly the area where the clutch pulley moves up and down.  

 

Would aluminum L or C channel be strong enough and have good enough wear resistance to the belt rubbing?

Or do I really need to stick to using steel sheet metal?

 

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SylvanLakeWH

No input on the type of metal as I am not knowledgeable enough to comment. Look forward to the responses.

 

Question though: why open? Seems you are exposing yourself to accidental safety concerns… shoelaces, clothing, fingers etc. Those guards have evolved for a reason and, notwithstanding the never ending OSHA jokes, I’d be very cautious with exposed belts…

 

:twocents-twocents:

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said:

No input on the type of metal as I am not knowledgeable enough to comment. Look forward to the responses.

 

Question though: why open? Seems you are exposing yourself to accidental safety concerns… shoelaces, clothing, fingers etc. Those guards have evolved for a reason and, notwithstanding the never ending OSHA jokes, I’d be very cautious with exposed belts…

 

:twocents-twocents:

 

Oh no no no no.  

No chances taken here.  

 

The MIDDLE will be open. 

The belt will be completely covered. 

 

Two separate pieces at top and bottom. 

 

 

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peter lena

@ebinmaine  how much different is your plan ,  vs  original set up ?  personally ,channel steel , is bombproof, would also get it in a thicker grade, that also applies to the possible angle.  make your contact  /  set area on the best ,flat area , for effect , pete

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Ed Kennell

Steel would be my choice.  It is harder and would wear better.   Also,  IMO, steel is much easier to fab tham aluminum.    It cuts and grinds easier... no smearing and clogging of abrasive wheels and it is easier to weld.    I can see 1X1 steel "U" channel working well to cover and support a belt.     Just remember the top loop will need to move vertically with the belt tensioner pulley.

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ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, peter lena said:

how much different is your plan ,  vs  original set up ?

Original on a C series, as we know, covers the whole area of travel of the entire belt except the very ends around the engine and transmission pulleys. 

 

I'm building something like "Captain 315" & "Creepy crawler" on YT have done to increase grip...

but ENCLOSING the BELT ONLY

in a C channel as referenced by @Ed Kennell

 

The lower portion would be fairly easy as it's a straight shot. 

The upper half... Not sure yet. 

 

Perhaps a pulley setup sort of similar to this:

Screenshot_20220117-091010-102.png.079baeaa8818e8e3aafb576241f5042f.png

 

Which would give a fuller wrap at the rear pulley. 

 

23 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Steel would be my choice.  It is harder and would wear better.   Also,  IMO, steel is much easier to fab tham aluminum.    It cuts and grinds easier... no smearing and clogging of abrasive wheels and it is easier to weld. .

 

Thanks for that reminder. Very true.  

 

27 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

  I can see 1X1 steel "U" channel working well to cover and support a belt.     Just remember the top loop will need to move vertically with the belt tensioner pulley

 

1 x 1 or .75 x .75 is what I was figuring. The larger would certainly offer a bit more rigidity and adjustment.  

 

I hadn't considered to make the top piece movable but that could be a good idea. 

Fastening it directly to the clutch lever somehow with a sliding pivot could give constant proper position of the top of the belt.  

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Lee1977

His tractor is working backwards from yours he's lossen the belt on the transmission pulley,  You need the bottom of the top belt supported and the bottom of the lower to loosen on the engine pulley this will be when the belt is stopped with the clutch pushed in. Set that up first fixed position should work just fine,  Then add the rest it will just be a guard doesn't have to be that close to the belt, you can set it with the clutch out.

Edited by Lee1977
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ranger

Stainless steel, no rusting, nice and ‘Slippery’ you can polish it up to a nice finish, no need to paint it. Added ‘Bling’ (not sure what the ‘Paint Shop’ would have to say about this though?). If you need to weld it, consider, ‘stick’ welding rods, ( if the metal is thick enough), rather than Mig, with Mig you need Pure Argon or Helium gas, (Expensive on this side of the pond!). (Beware, if stick welding Stainless, the ‘Slag’ covering the weld, as it cools, will shatter and fly in all directions, this even before you lay into it with the chipping hammer, so Safety Glasses Please).You can Mig Stainless with mild steel wire and Argon/Co2 mix, but you will then need to paint it! However, if you have a ‘TIG’ set, you will already have a suitable gas.

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8ntruck

I agree with @Ed Kennell.  Steel is about 3 times stronger than aluminum, but also about 3 times heavier.  In your application, I don't believe that weight will be a consideration.  Being stronger, steel will stand up better to oopseies that might happen out in your woods.  Will also stand up better to occasional contact with bear feet.....

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Maxwell-8
25 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

I agree with @Ed Kennell.  Steel is about 3 times stronger than aluminum,

:text-yeahthat: I once had my shoe against the belt for just a second. big cut in the sole. Those belts grind fast! try sanding alloy or steel. you will see the different. Haven't seen someone making a belt guard out of alloy. Probably for good reason.

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CCW

Only aluminum I would consider is aircraft quality material.  I have a piece, but welding it is very difficult and not bendable.  

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, 8ntruck said:

I agree with @Ed Kennell.  Steel is about 3 times stronger than aluminum, but also about 3 times heavier.  In your application, I don't believe that weight will be a consideration.  Being stronger, steel will stand up better to oopseies that might happen out in your woods.  Will also stand up better to occasional contact with bear feet.....

 

In my particular situation More weight is better. 

 

Valid point on the Bear 🐻 contact. 

😂

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Reddart

I would also be concerned about galvanic corrosion with aluminum, depending on how the guard is bolted up to the steel. 

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CCW
11 hours ago, Reddart said:

I would also be concerned about galvanic corrosion with aluminum, depending on how the guard is bolted up to the steel. 

 

Would need to use stainless steel washers between aluminum and steel along with a SS bolt.

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