3/12 8. Some progress

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

This tractor was just not treated well. Left outside, hacked up wiring, safety’s eliminated. Nothing new, not everyone took good care of their tractors. After a few hours and a few bucks I have a baseline to go further with. A slow starter was the first problem. I got the battery to take a good charge and it wouldn’t get a full rotation. I replaced the starter today. More involved than I thought, having to remove the belt guard and oil dip stick. The battery and starter made no difference initially. Looking at the wires off the ignition I found 2 chewed wires. So I added 2 more butt connectors to the mess. Now it turns over fast. While the plug was out I did a compression test and was pleased to see 150psi. Next, I’ll get some fuel to it and see if the carb wants to work.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,042]

150 lbs is way more than you should see so suspect the valve tappet clearances are too wide. There is a compression release just before top dead center which helps the starter crank it over.

[oliver2-44 9,750]

The compression release helps the starter turn the engine over for easy cranking.  Save that old starter there may be nothing wrong with it.  At some point you will want to check/adjust the valve clearances.  You will need to pull the carburetor, then the breather cover that is below it but above the fuel pump.  keep track of the order of the internal breather, its important they go back in the correct order.  On a new to me tractor, when I pull the breather I like to pull the head and de-carbon the top of the valves and piston.  If the valve stems have a lot of carbon buildup i pull them and clean them up to.

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

I thought it was high. In the 2stroke world (I’ve done 4-500 chainsaws) 150psi is good, and 175psi is even better. My billy goat walk behind leafblower with an 8hp I/c Briggs blew 100psi after a head gasket. I’ll look into the valves.

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

That compression number is likely higher that the actual reading. I forgot I had added some marvel oil down the plug hole for some extra top end lube. It had sat for 2 years. Once it’s running that number should drop.

[WHGuy413 2,683]

You know even tho it was neglected it looks like it’s in fairly good shape. Nice job saving that one. Good luck with your project.

[ebinmaine 67,494]

Good save and thank you for doing so. 

 

If you haven't already done so, take a slow careful peek at the list here:

 

 

 

Note one of the highlighted lines is cleaning. Makes it much easier to see issues and more of a pleasure to work on.  

 

Good luck and keep us posted. 

 

 

[peter lena 8,627]

@Newstuffsucks81  your wiring issue looks like a standard classic  problem section , personally use a set of  small alligator clip  jumper wires , about 15 " long , lets me find out what's going on and helps to fine solid wires.  as you  rewire , also reroute and wire wrap the wires . eliminate tight chafing spots , dielectric grease on every new connection , verify and check your gain as you go , that will give you confidence  and desire to eliminate  the problem.  noting your battery tray area , what an opportunity spot !  wiring / grounding / pto lever gain , its all there . just get your issue working , you can always go back . good luck pete 

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

I didn’t go crazy cleaning or chasing wires yet because I wanted to see if I could get it to turn over. Now that I know it will and the motor is good (only 550hr and the meter works) I’ll go forward. I changed the oil, it was full and clean, I wasn’t in a rush to but had no choice since I had to remove the filler tube. Next is the gear oil (very low) then check the fuel lines, replace the filter and see if that pump works. 

[ebinmaine 67,494]

4 hours ago, Newstuffsucks81 said:

didn’t go crazy cleaning or chasing wires yet because I wanted to see if I could get it to turn over. Now that I know it will and the motor is good (only 550hr and the meter works) I’ll go forward

That's a good order of progression. 

 

I'd add something here:

4 hours ago, Newstuffsucks81 said:

then check the fuel lines, replace the filter

 

CHANGE the fuel lines. Don't check them. Don't even take the time. They're bad. What with the usage of ethanol gas nowadays it's nearly a guarantee.  

I'd also highly recommend a small fuel filter between the pump and carb. It's tight there but it could very well save you future headaches.  

The pumps tend to collect "stuff". 

 

[kpinnc 12,028]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

The pumps tend to collect "stuff". 

 

I can vouch for that one. I took my Bronco's pump apart tonight because fuel wouldn't pass through it even if I pressurized the fuel tank. Apparently, some ethanol fuel got in it the last time it was ran (several years back unfortunately). Luckily there was very little corrosion, but there was some crud like I've never seen in the carb and fuel pump. Gritty, yellow, and quite a large amount of it. Almost the consistency of play sand.

 

Glad to say she purrs like a kitten now, but I'm glad I looked at the carb before running it. The thought of that stuff bouncing around on top of the piston makes me cringe. 

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

I’ve been busy using the other machine plowing snow, then the new Holley 650 I put on my one ton decided to keep its choke stuck on. I was chasing my tail with that, damn thing wouldn’t hold any idle. I do plan on replacing the fuel lines, I did put 1/2 gal of 2 stroke in it with the old lines. I wanted to see if the fuel pump would pull. Removed plug and cranked. Nothing. On my 3/12 I went with a facet fuel pump and it’s been excellent. Might do that here.

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

I went ahead and got an electric fuel pump wired up and plumbed in last week. I picked up a Mr. Gasket electric pump, looks the same as my Facet pump I put on my 3/12. I removed the fender and gauge panel and I scraped them blew off all the dirt and poop. Gonna need a shift boot too. I rinsed the tank and removed the old line and filter. Next I mounted the pump, these “push” better than “pull” so I mount them close to the tank. I removed the rock shaft cable and tube and that’s  what the pump and ground goes on. I didn’t get power off the ignition. The wiring on this machine is a mess. Everything has been cut except the lights and ignition. I wired up a switch with an inline 5amp fuse from the battery. I did the same on all my other tractors and it’s fine, just remember to shut the switch off. The pump comes with a filter that threads on. After I finished, I hit the switch, let the pump prime that carb, bump the ignition and she fired up and runs excellent. Smokey while it burned off the mystery oil I had in it but it cleaned up nice. I topped off the gear box with some GL90  too. Has a new air cleaner, solenoid, replacement starter, good battery with cleaned up ground and terminals and fresh oil. It needs good was a light sanding and some paint. Then some lights. Overall a neglected, but low hour machine with plenty of life in it.

[rjg854 11,361]

Be sure to let us know how long that pumps lasts.  Was it as pricey as a Facet pump?  What's the pressure it employs?

Edited February 20, 2022 by rjg854
add

[pfrederi 17,739]

Mr gasket pumps are made in China   Facet posiflo in US

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

4 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Mr gasket pumps are made in China   Facet posiflo in US

Yep, I paid $50 for the Facet 7 years ago and it works perfect, and I was pleased to see Made in USA. Unfortunately the MR. Gasket is chinesium. Also $50. I think its 3-4gpm. Time will tell on the new one.

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

Made some gains in this tractor. I’m also working on a Stihl 038 magnum and fabricating a dump body onto my one ton. None of the three get a great deal of time. I did some body work on the tractor. If it had just had some fading and light rust I might have sanded and sealed it. But with the black and white “touch ups” it was not an option. It’s not museum restoration quality but a light sand, prime and three coats of sun rise red make a difference. I left the decals. They are a little worn but that’s fine. The panel on the lift side rotted thru so I’ll be cutting and patching it. Then some prep and paint of the frame, boards and front axle should finish. I greased all the zirks, have to put some wind in the tires. I removed the hood to paint, and I cut the ground and hot wire for the lights. I then added bullet terminals for easy removal in the future. I did this to another tractor years ago and was happy with the results. I took it for a short drive thu the neighborhood and it runs well. Trans shifts good and the tractor feels tight. Rough as it looked, hour meeter is correct.

Edited March 7, 2022 by Newstuffsucks81

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

Some body work today. Once you start painting you can’t stop.this panel on the Armstrong side rotted thru. As you can see the p.o. Fixed it with matching black paint. As was the case with all the repairs. I cut a piece of sheet metal came up a bit short but I’m not sweating it. Welded it from the inside then some body fill on the outside. Sand prime and paint tomorrow 

 

 

 

Edited March 8, 2022 by Newstuffsucks81

[ebinmaine 67,494]

I'm very impressed that you're fixing the existing panels instead of tossing and replacing. 

 

Nice work!!

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 25,557]

Nice job!!! 

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

It’s done, needs axle seals as they weep a bit. Otherwise it came out decent. $77 or so after the cost of the tractor ($125). It runs excellent and now it looks respectable at least. Rust and faded paint I could live with. Rot, black touch up and and joint compound I couldn’t. Added some fresh hardware on the gear shift panel, new speed nuts and chased some other with a 1/4” 20 tap. Some 000 steel wool and WD40 to polish the black parts and wheels. Also swapped another air strut for the seat old one was junk. 

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

[Newstuffsucks81 90]

This is how my buddy got it. And how I received it

[ebinmaine 67,494]

Excellent refresh!!