C-100 having probs with a single stage snowblower

[Big Jilm 8]

Ok most of these older blowers are pretty similar. Mine pretty regularly has an issue where the set screws (23) back out a little or spin out on the drive shaft (25) and the shaft spins but the gear does not. Do I just need to lock-tite it? Is that woodruff key (24) help transfer power or is that in the bearing (18). I had to tighten the set screws twice on one driveway. Any thoughts or advice?

[roadapples 6,983]

Yes, I'd use blue locktite....and

                  

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,036]

Welcome to the forum.

The Woodruff key should be for the sprocket. If worn it should be replaced and new set screws may help. Once the shaft spins the cup points get rounded off and will not cut into the shaft.

[8ntruck 6,991]

 to the forum.  Lots of good folks here.  Chances are pretty good that someone has already broken, and fixed whatever you happen to be working on.  

 

That key should be between the gear and shaft.  If there is room, put two set screws, one on top of the other in the gear.  A new set screw on the bottom will hold torque better than an old one.  Like @roadapples suggests, blue Locktite will help.  Don't use red or green 'cause they are almost forever type of thread loco era.

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

3 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

will not cut into the shaft

 

Or they'll cut a groove in the shaft.

 

You need that key to keep the sprocket from spinning on the shaft.  That's not the setscrews job.

[Big Jilm 8]

1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Or they'll cut a groove in the shaft.

 

You need that key to keep the sprocket from spinning on the shaft.  That's not the setscrews job.

That’s kinda my fear and gut feeling. I’ll tear into it this weekend and see what’s goin on in there. Hoping I just have to take off that guard, chain and maybe bearing (18) to get to that key. Any pointers are welcome. These exploded views are about all I can find on disassembly/assembly on this part of the blower. 
 

much thanks for everyone’s quick responses. I think I’ll get a second set of lock screws as well and lock-tite blue the new ones in first. Thanks again for all the feedback. Super appreciate it. 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

13 minutes ago, Big Jilm said:

That’s kinda my fear and gut feeling. I’ll tear into it this weekend and see what’s goin on in there. Hoping I just have to take off that guard, chain and maybe bearing (18) to get to that key. Any pointers are welcome. These exploded views are about all I can find on disassembly/assembly on this part of the blower. 
 

much thanks for everyone’s quick responses. I think I’ll get a second set of lock screws as well and lock-tite blue the new ones in first. Thanks again for all the feedback. Super appreciate it. 

 

It may not be easy...  Depending on the vintage of your blower, the shaft bearings may be "cam lock" type.  Google "Cam lock bearing" for info on how to work with those, there's a Youtube video that shows how. (probably more than one...).  Although, the diagram you posted shows the older variety like mine, and you may not have the cam locks.  Just setscrews and a roll pin.  Prepare yourself for a bit of a struggle getting that stuff off, 

 

The keyway in the shaft may be torn up.  Key might be ground to little pieces.  Unless someone had it apart one time and never put the key back in.

 

I'm a satisfied customer of this place:  https://thebigbearingstore.com/

 

I recently rebuilt an old blower and got my sprocket, shaft, bearings from them.  Decent quality, good prices, shipping was timely.

 

Edited January 7, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[peter lena 8,588]

@big jim agree with others on the lock tite , that loosing  makes me think of a worn thread issue , did you ever use a BOTTOM TAP  ON THOSE THREADS ? , MIGHT HAVE RUST FLAKING BUILD UP , that prevents a strong hold.  slide the gear  away from the set area to look at related engagement areas . might have to get a new gear , not a big deal . local bearing dist , or related gear is available. keep that chain lubricated , and adjusted for 1/2" play at center of  no support . that should not be a problem area , probably wear and rust related.  pete  

[Big Jilm 8]

Ok so I got to the hardware store and got a woodruff key and some set screws and blue thread lock. I was able to pull the sprocket over far enough to see the key way underneath. I was able to get the key in the key way, line it up with the notch. Neither the key way nor the notch looked spun out and it was tight going back on. I had to use a rubber mallet to persuade it a little. Pushed back into place it looks like the sprocket traps the key. Not sure how or why it was missing. May have been for years before I owned it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

 

I put in new set screws with blue thread lock and then put the old set screws back on top of the new ones. Kind of like using a second but to lock the first one. 
 

“Wheel” see how it goes. We’re supposed to get snow tomorrow

[Big Jilm 8]

Well it worked! Did my drive and three of my neighbors 😁

[rjg854 11,353]

     The grease police    will be along shortly and explain how to keep your chain and moving parts lubed up   

[squonk 41,040]

28 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

     The grease police    will be along shortly and explain how to keep your chain and moving parts lubed up   

 

BBBBBWAHHHHAAAAAAAHAAA

I was scrolling down lookin at that chain and thinking:   OH BOY! 

[peter lena 8,588]

@BigJim   recommend  a specific chain and gear spray for that , LUBRIPLATE , CABLE AND CHAIN SPRAY , I  also lube it before and after use , never let it dry out , chain play is about  1/2"  at center of chain . lock bolt lower left hand corner , front lower edge ,blower housing. Would also recommend , doing a slight drill point set , to have a hollow for set screw to set in , very shallow . also make a point of lubricating the spring tensioned belt pulley frame , eliminate rust , more solid pull tension on belt . teflon spray at bottom of chute base , helps it swing easier , go after any rusty area that is saposed to move. should be able to move blower by hand on drive bell pull . make it easy to work , pete 

[WHX?? 48,800]

Pete is our resident lube guru Jilm ... and he is always right. Lube with a good quality chain lube after EVERY use. I spray her down with the straw & the blower running at idle. 

 

Edited January 25, 2022 by WHX??

[peter lena 8,588]

@BigJim  find it easy to enhance , virtually any siding / moving point on a horse , ex,  ever lubricate your choke and throttle cables?  how about clutch linkage for rust run out ? BTW , you can also firm up related linkage points , with added flat washers , for solidly smooth operation.  does your clutch pedal  " jump " when using it ?  probably  , packed with rust , aerosol spray it down first , to get rust out , then chassis grease . PTO lever stiff and hard to use ? why not make it work easily ? this only my view of a nagging problem , go away . go over every area for function and make it easier to use, pete