Part for snowblower

[pfrederi 17,681]

You want extra flexible wire rope.  The stuff in most hardware stores will probably be 7x7 and is too stiff I am using the 7X19 1/16" stainless  

Edited January 17, 2022 by pfrederi

[Joe 77 B100 84]

Finally got a chance to use the snow blower today.   A few observations.  I'd be interested in your comments:

1. It seems to throw snow better when I am in "fast" gear.   Is that because it has more power or the pto spins faster or merely because more snow going in equals more force going out?
2. I am assuming I need front weights also.  I lose control/use of the front wheels often.  And chains?  Do those help?
3. I definitely see why people use those little cabs that attach to the tractor.  I was covered with snow at the end of it because it was totally powder snow.  I used to think that was kinda "princess-y" but I get it now.
4. Do most of you use the guards set on the side of the blower to keep it off the ground or just the manual lift?  I had the guards set all the way to high but after awhile I looked and they had pushed all the way up and weren't useful then.

Thanks again for your help getting it all working!  I couldn't have done it without you folks.

Here she is on her maiden run.

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

1 hour ago, Joe 77 B100 said:

• It seems to throw snow better when I am in "fast" gear.   Is that because it has more power or the pto spins faster or merely because more snow going in equals more force going out?
• I am assuming I need front weights also.  I lose control/use of the front wheels often.  And chains?  Do those help?
• I definitely see why people use those little cabs that attach to the tractor.  I was covered with snow at the end of it because it was totally powder snow.  I used to think that was kinda "princess-y" but I get it now.
• Do most of you use the guards set on the side of the blower to keep it off the ground or just the manual lift?  I had the guards set all the way to high but after awhile I looked and they had pushed all the way up and weren't useful then.

 

1. I think more in = more out.  You want to run the engine upwards of 3000 RPM so the blower is running fast and then adjust your ground speed appropriately.

 

2. Chains definitely help!  Front and rear if you can swing it.  And weights, or fill the tires with beet juice (aka "Rimguard").  Chains for the front:  A lot of guys use #40 roller chain (used and worn is most economical... but new is fine too)  What you do is air down the front tires, wrap the chain around the tire so it fits snugly, adjust the length of the chain as needed, and air the tire back up to capture the chain.  One wrap is often enough, but more is fine too.  This works best on turf tires, on ags it will probably slip off, on tri-ribs you might have trouble keeping it in place, but I don't think tri-ribs are very good on snow anyway.  You can get 10 feet of chain for about 15 bucks at:  https://thebigbearingstore.com/standard-roller-chain/  they also have the master links and such that you will need.

 

3. I don't have a cab either but would love to have one!   I haven't used my tractor mounted blower yet, but with my walk behind I wear my rain gear, including the "Gorton's Fisherman" hood.  And my full face shield.  It's like a really close fitting snow cab!

 

4. Not sure what you mean by 'guards' ?  Do you mean the 'shoes' that are adjustable height?  Why would they "push all the way up" ?  I looked back but didn't see... does your blower have the steel shoes?  or the steel wheels?

 

 

Edited January 23, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[Joe 77 B100 84]

2 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

. Not sure what you mean by 'guards' ?  Do you mean the 'shoes' that are adjustable height?  Why would they "push all the way up" ?  I looked back but didn't see... does your blower have the steel shoes?  or the steel wheels?

 

 

I meant shoes I guess.  The terminology on this page can be tricky.   I don't have the wheels, I have the shoes.   I guess I didn't tighten them enough.  I had them set all the way down to prevent rocks from getting thrown but, about half way through the job, I noted they were all the way up so clearly I didn't have them tight enough.  Do others tend to set them as low as possible to keep rocks out of the auger?

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

16 minutes ago, Joe 77 B100 said:

as low as possible to keep rocks out of the auger?

 

I got my drive asphalted this past summer so I don't have to deal with that any longer!

 

But... I dealt with bluestone for three decades... wet sticky snow was the worst.  No matter what I did, no matter how high or low I set it, the blower would 'peel' the snow with the rocks embedded right into the blower.

I made a set of shoes out of angle iron with 'ski points' on them so they would cut through the snow instead of packing it down and lifting the front of the blower.

 

My walk behind has a plastic chute and I can't tellya how many of those were destroyed by the rocks before I lined them with galvanized sheet metal.  Even the galvanized would get tore up.

 

AND... one had to be VERY careful where they directed the chute.  Those rocks would go fast and far!

 

I also have a plow and use that here in NJ with our typical wet snow more than the blower.  I won't even attempt to use the blower on wet, heavy snow.  Dry powder only!

 

So, to answer your question, you need to set the scraper edge at least an inch or so above the gravel / stone.  Depending on how tightly your stone is packed, and how frozen the ground is, you may need more than that, or be able to get away with less.

 

My tractor blower which I haven't had opportunity to use yet is an older one with steel wheels on it, and on the asphalt I plan to run the scraper bar as close to the surface as possible.  There's a lever on the side of my blower that raises and lowers the wheels, no tools required.

 

Edited January 24, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

You might enjoy looking at my blower rebuild thread:

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

On 1/17/2022 at 11:06 AM, pfrederi said:

You want extra flexible

 

This is what I used, took a chance being it was so cheap, but so far it seems to be working out well.

 

Not sure of the stranding, but it is quite flexible

 

 

 

 

[BIGMIKE 78]

On 1/23/2022 at 9:41 PM, Joe 77 B100 said:

I meant shoes I guess.  The terminology on this page can be tricky.   I don't have the wheels, I have the shoes.   I guess I didn't tighten them enough.  I had them set all the way down to prevent rocks from getting thrown but, about half way through the job, I noted they were all the way up so clearly I didn't have them tight enough.  Do others tend to set them as low as possible to keep rocks out of the auger?

 

Hi Joe. I have a dirt/stone driveway and I set the feet twice a season. First setting is so I have about 1" clearance over the ground for the FIRST snowfall. This leaves a layer of snow that gets packed with driving into a layer above the stones. Then next snowfall I reset the height to about 3/8" to 1/2" so it scrapes the new stuff and leaves the old. Seems to be the best for my driveway anyway. I use a 1" board under the bottom edge for initial set. Set the scoop on the board and drop the feet to the floor. Next 1/2" setting a thinner board. Works for me. 

 

I have a 1990 416H with a 1970's era thrower.

 

BIGMIKE

[peter lena 8,588]

@Joe 77 B100  agree with jeff, above  on the 1/16  stainless cable pull , did it a few times with fishing line to verify what works , then replaced  with the cable. notice your spring pulled idler / drive  pulley frame forward end of frame , has  dry powdery "  swing movement points ". if those swing points are lubricated , your belt drive will be more efficient , another area often neglected is the chute base to blower housing mount , super lube / teflon aerosol lubricant on the base and inside the chute area , makes it smooth and helps release snow.  also lubricate the cable guides on the outside of the chute to cable pull , replacing lubricant for rust , is easy , its showing itself to you , also keep that auger drive  chain  / gear lubricated , never let it dry out , 1/ 2" play on that drive chain . pete

[peter lena 8,588]

@Joe 77 B100  on your chute base , the cable pull connectors can be improved , https://www.grainger.com/product/3LN44?ef_id=Cj0KCQiA_8OPBhDtARIsAKQu0gahoG588i0sfQ_FLKInjxjMh8tPHUnFMP3qCNdrFF3MY4zC_GqQwLUaAg-  , local hard ware has them , drill out original pop rivit connection , use 1/4"  bolts / washers / elastic lock nuts , on out side of  chute.  much better connection allowing for easy adjustments , instead of that tiny slot screw , have it in place for years , no problems , or issues , keep it oily , pete

[Joe 77 B100 84]

On 1/26/2022 at 9:24 AM, peter lena said:

@Joe 77 B100  on your chute base , the cable pull connectors can be improved , https://www.grainger.com/product/3LN44?ef_id=Cj0KCQiA_8OPBhDtARIsAKQu0gahoG588i0sfQ_FLKInjxjMh8tPHUnFMP3qCNdrFF3MY4zC_GqQwLUaAg-  , local hard ware has them , drill out original pop rivit connection , use 1/4"  bolts / washers / elastic lock nuts , on out side of  chute.  much better connection allowing for easy adjustments , instead of that tiny slot screw , have it in place for years , no problems , or issues , keep it oily , pete

I have been trying to find some way to "better" those screw-in slot screws.   Thanks. 

[Joe 77 B100 84]

On 1/26/2022 at 9:15 AM, peter lena said:

@Joe 77 B100  agree with jeff, above  on the 1/16  stainless cable pull , did it a few times with fishing line to verify what works , then replaced  with the cable. notice your spring pulled idler / drive  pulley frame forward end of frame , has  dry powdery "  swing movement points ". if those swing points are lubricated , your belt drive will be more efficient , another area often neglected is the chute base to blower housing mount , super lube / teflon aerosol lubricant on the base and inside the chute area , makes it smooth and helps release snow.  also lubricate the cable guides on the outside of the chute to cable pull , replacing lubricant for rust , is easy , its showing itself to you , also keep that auger drive  chain  / gear lubricated , never let it dry out , 1/ 2" play on that drive chain . pete

I'm gonna be honest, I cannot follow what you are describing here.   Might you be able to find a pic or schematic to help me follow location and parts you reference?  I get the first part about the stainless wire.

What is a "spring pulled idler/drive pulley frame?  Swing movement points?

I already have a teflon spray on my chute base-to-housing joint. 

What do you use for the auger drive chain to lubricate it?

Thanks a lot!

[Joe 77 B100 84]

On 1/26/2022 at 8:45 AM, BIGMIKE said:

 

Hi Joe. I have a dirt/stone driveway and I set the feet twice a season. First setting is so I have about 1" clearance over the ground for the FIRST snowfall. This leaves a layer of snow that gets packed with driving into a layer above the stones. Then next snowfall I reset the height to about 3/8" to 1/2" so it scrapes the new stuff and leaves the old. Seems to be the best for my driveway anyway. I use a 1" board under the bottom edge for initial set. Set the scoop on the board and drop the feet to the floor. Next 1/2" setting a thinner board. Works for me. 

 

I have a 1990 416H with a 1970's era thrower.

 

BIGMIKE

That is a GREAT idea.

[Joe 77 B100 84]

On 1/23/2022 at 9:08 PM, Jeff-C175 said:

 

This is what I used, took a chance being it was so cheap, but so far it seems to be working out well.

I bought new wire and now have extra length to play with which helped a lot when trying to place it correctly on the spindle and chute.  And, I found that making sure it winds tightly around the spool at the end of the hand-crank also makes things much more smooth.

Edited January 27, 2022 by Joe 77 B100

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

22 minutes ago, Joe 77 B100 said:

I have been trying to find some way to "better" those screw-in slot screws.   Thanks. 

 

If you haven't already Joe, take a look at this post from the thread I linked to previously:

 

 

Works well.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

21 minutes ago, Joe 77 B100 said:

I cannot follow what you are describing here.

 

I think Pete is just saying to lubricate anything that moves.  Pete likes to keep it all greasy and oily !