Part for snowblower

[Joe 77 B100 84]

Hey there folks.   I got my B-100 running and the snowblower is attached but when I went to put the hood back on the tractor I noticed down where the hood attaches that the blower on one side wasn't sitting correctly where it connects to the frame.

I think the issue is a part missing.   On one side, where the blower fits onto the tractor, there is a round, thick washer that looks to be about 1" around and maybe 1/2" thick that has a bar running through it.  The blower attachment has a half-moon cutout that fits onto that washer.  See pic below with the single arrow pointing to the part I am speaking about.

That part should be where the arrow points in the other pic.  They have a clamp holding the blower on which isn't going to hold long (also with an arrow).

 

Can anyone tell me the part number or, better yet, the measurements so I can go try and find something to use as a replacement until I get the part I need?  Anyone have any specs for that part?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,036]

Here are the hitch attachment parts and it looks like you have them all.

The top rod that is clamped looks like the hood pivot rod shown here using cotter pins.

I have replaced that pin using 2 bolts with enough unthreaded shank to go through the metal brackets plus a bit, flat washers for shims and Nylock nuts. My reason was to eliminate hood vibrations and noise. The nuts can be adjusted to allow the hood to tip and still be tight. I cut off any unused bolt thread.

I may have drilled the holes to a larger size to correct for wear in the brackets.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,036]

Number 7 in this drawing is the hood pivot rod I replaced. The rod below it is what stops the hood from going right to the ground when open.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,036]

Perhaps your hood pivot rod should be in the next hole back.

Or

move the hood back using the bolts and use the rod it pivots on now for the stop.

[Handy Don 12,170]

That "fat washer" is part 7-06 in Post #2 diagram. There is only one of these in an Attach-a-Matic (for the front one, it's on the right as you face the front of the tractor). Its job is to lock the Attach-a-matic closed.

 

The spring your photo points to allows that rod with "washer" to slide leftward (compressing the spring) when you push leftward on its right-hand end (usually there is a little plastic cap there, 7-08 in the diagram). This moves the washer away from, and thus releasing, the jaw. The jaws have the same cutout on both sides to assure clearances.

Edited January 7, 2022 by Handy Don

[Joe 77 B100 84]

21 hours ago, Handy Don said:

That "fat washer" is part 7-06 in Post #2 diagram. There is only one of these in an Attach-a-Matic (for the front one, it's on the right as you face the front of the tractor). Its job is to lock the Attach-a-matic closed.

 

The spring your photo points to allows that rod with "washer" to slide leftward (compressing the spring) when you push leftward on its right-hand end (usually there is a little plastic cap there, 7-08 in the diagram). This moves the washer away from, and thus releasing, the jaw. The jaws have the same cutout on both sides to assure clearances.

Thanks for that.  Clear answer with exact references to parts.  Exactly what I needed.

I guess I am goog then; but, if there is no 7-06 on the left side of 7-05 (as you stand in front of the mower and look at it) then 7-02 is has about an inch of play in it, the snowblower isn't supported on that side and sits at an angle with the left side lower than the right.  How can that be "right"?

 

Thanks again.  And, sorry for the cross reference.  My account didn't notify me that anyone answers this thread. 

[Joe 77 B100 84]

On 1/6/2022 at 6:06 PM, gwest_ca said:

Number 7 in this drawing is the hood pivot rod I replaced. The rod below it is what stops the hood from going right to the ground when open.

So you think that #7 is what goes through the hood to hold it onto the tractor and 5 is below it and stops it when you open it? 

[Joe 77 B100 84]

So, twice now, someone has posted this for me and I am still not sure what this part is or where it is. Thanks in advance.

[Joe 77 B100 84]

And, one of the lightbulbs is rusted into the light socket behind the cover (#44 in this image).

Any suggestions on how to get that out?  Are replacement parts for the part behind the cover easily obtained?  I have a feeling- no.

 

And, since this doesn't have to do with attachments, should I be asking somewhere else in the forum?  Etiquette? 

[Handy Don 12,170]

49 minutes ago, ecojoe69 said:

So, twice now, someone has posted this for me and I am still not sure what this part is or where it is. Thanks in advance.

This is a drawbar hitch and it goes at the back of the tractor attached to the transaxle. Has no relevance to the snowblower.

[Handy Don 12,170]

On 1/6/2022 at 6:32 PM, ecojoe69 said:

 

    

In the left picture, the rod that the stem of your blue arrow is crossing is the support bar for the snowblower. It is correctly in the attachamatic and the jaw under it is correctly locked.

The shaft in shadow below the point of the arrow connects the two jaws of the attachamatic so that they open and close together.

The shaft with the "washer" (missing a lot of paint) is the lock shaft (discussed above)

The dark shaft at top right is the hood hinge.

All of this is correct, BUT missing is an additional rod that limits the pivot of the hood. More on this in a minute

 

In the right picture, from right to left are: the lock shaft, the jaw connecting shaft, the snowblower support bar (which appears to be properly positioned), and the hood hinge. The screw clamp's purpose is unclear--I've never seen one used this way. What I cannot see (hidden by the clamp and the snowblower shaft) is the left side jaw of the attachamatic. If that, or the "inverted U" of the attachamatic have been wallowed out, it may be that they are not holding the snowblower shaft securely. I'd need to see this with the snowblower removed to be sure. I suspect it is because the left side jaw isn't holding that a PO put the screw clamp to hold it. It is also possible that the snowblower bracket is twisted between the blower and the tractor causing one side to be higher than the other. More pictures with the snowblower removed would help clarify this issue.

 

Notice in the right photo, just above and "behind" the upper blue arrow, there is a hole. There is a corresponding hole on the right side. There is a rod that goes through those holes that prevents the hood from opening too far--it is missing on your tractor. In the diagram in Post #2, it is the unnumbered part directly above 7-03 (with cotter pins at the ends). In Post #3 it is #7.

Edited January 8, 2022 by Handy Don

[Handy Don 12,170]

1 hour ago, ecojoe69 said:

And, one of the lightbulbs is rusted into the light socket behind the cover (#44 in this image).

Any suggestions on how to get that out?  Are replacement parts for the part behind the cover easily obtained?  I have a feeling- no.

 

And, since this doesn't have to do with attachments, should I be asking somewhere else in the forum?  Etiquette? 

Best to pursue one issue at a time to keep both current and future readers from getting confused. If necessary, start a second topic in the relevant section. Headlights are electrical or tractor--your call.

[Joe 77 B100 84]

1 hour ago, Handy Don said:

In the left picture, the rod that the stem of your blue arrow is crossing is the support bar for the snowblower. It is correctly in the attachamatic and the jaw under it is correctly locked.

The shaft in shadow below the point of the arrow connects the two jaws of the attachamatic so that they open and close together.

The shaft with the "washer" (missing a lot of paint) is the lock shaft (discussed above)

The dark shaft at top right is the hood hinge.

All of this is correct, BUT missing is an additional rod that limits the pivot of the hood. More on this in a minute

 

In the right picture, from right to left are: the lock shaft, the jaw connecting shaft, the snowblower support bar (which appears to be properly positioned), and the hood hinge. The screw clamp's purpose is unclear--I've never seen one used this way. What I cannot see (hidden by the clamp and the snowblower shaft) is the left side jaw of the attachamatic. If that, or the "inverted U" of the attachamatic have been wallowed out, it may be that they are not holding the snowblower shaft securely. I'd need to see this with the snowblower removed to be sure. I suspect it is because the left side jaw isn't holding that a PO put the screw clamp to hold it. It is also possible that the snowblower bracket is twisted between the blower and the tractor causing one side to be higher than the other. More pictures with the snowblower removed would help clarify this issue.

 

Notice in the right photo, just above and "behind" the upper blue arrow, there is a hole. There is a corresponding hole on the right side. There is a rod that goes through those holes that prevents the hood from opening too far--it is missing on your tractor. In the diagram in Post #2, it is the unnumbered part directly above 7-03 (with cotter pins at the ends). In Post #3 it is #7.

You are totally a pro at this.  Your posts are clear and concise and reference needed numbers and details.  Thanks.

[Joe 77 B100 84]

On 1/7/2022 at 7:36 PM, Handy Don said:

Ok.  I think this might be the last question on this thread.

In the schematic in post #2, there is no bolt going through the housing of 7-02.  But when I look at it on my machine, it feels like there should be something there.

In the image below, should there be a bolt going through the base of that 7-02 piece?  The hole I am pointing to?

 

And, in this image, two questions:

Again, the thin green arrow shows that hole I feel should have a long bolt going through it for support.

And, thick green line from part of the thread above, someone told me that there doesn't need to be a large, thick washer on the left like there is on the right, but then what supports the snowblower on the left side- especially without the bolt going through piece 7-02?

 

[pfrederi 17,681]

Only one fat washer and it is on the left side.

 

You seem to be missing a pin that has e clips on both ends. It goes through the tachmatic frame and the tube on the latch.

 

 

 

Edited January 9, 2022 by pfrederi

[Joe 77 B100 84]

1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Only one fat washer and it is on the left side.

 

You seem to be missing a pin that has e clips on both ends. It goes through the tachmatic frame and the tube on the latch.

 

 

 

Your setup is clearly different than mine.  Mine has way more parts than yours. 

 

Interesting.  The schematic above that someone posted doesn't show a pin going through there but it DOES seem like it needs one.  Any idea the diameter?

Edited January 9, 2022 by ecojoe69

[pfrederi 17,681]

3/8"

 

7-03 is the pin

My setup is older so there are no hood hinge connection but the latch and pivot pin are the same....

 

Edited January 9, 2022 by pfrederi

[Handy Don 12,170]

@pfrederi has it nailed, @Joe 77 B100

 

With that pin missing, the "jaws" of the attachamatic have no support at all so they cannot hold up the blower. (And that silly screw clamp is not gonna do it!)

 

You can replace the pin with simple steel rod (well lubed!) with cotters and washers at the end, or R-clips, but please do not try to replace it with a bolt--the threads of a bolt will chew up the metal friction surfaces very quickly and ruin the attachamatic.

[Joe 77 B100 84]

22 hours ago, Handy Don said:

@pfrederi has it nailed, @Joe 77 B100

 

With that pin missing, the "jaws" of the attachamatic have no support at all so they cannot hold up the blower. (And that silly screw clamp is not gonna do it!)

 

You can replace the pin with simple steel rod (well lubed!) with cotters and washers at the end, or R-clips, but please do not try to replace it with a bolt--the threads of a bolt will chew up the metal friction surfaces very quickly and ruin the attachamatic.

You know me well. I was actually gonna try a long screw.  I promise I won't now.

[Joe 77 B100 84]

Ok.  I have it all set up and ready to go with the blower; however, can someone please tell me how to wrap that wire that pulls the snow chute one way and then the other?   I have tried it about three different ways and I cannot see to figure it out.   I am sure there is some simple solution.

I can send a pic if you need but I assumed you'd know what I meant.  You know, to turn the chute while on the mower, you crank that handle on the right-hand side one way or another to change the direction.

I need to know how to set that up so that the cranking will correctly turn the chute 180 from left to right.  And, should I be using woven wire?  That is what the PO had on it.

Thanks in advance.

[wallfish 16,986]

Yes, wire rope is recommended 1/8" Coated or uncoated. Bigger wire will work but it takes up space and can be stiff.

I'm sure there are detailed instructions somewhere but...

Thread the wire through the hole on the handle shaft to the middle of the wire length. While holding both lengths of the wire, spin the handle to wind it up (maybe 5-6 revolutions or so).This allows the wire to spool OUT at the same time the wire spools IN which is the trick to having it work properly.

Attach the wire to the chute clamps and test BEFORE cutting anything to length. This will allow for some adjustments if it's necessary. Only cut the ends off the wire off at the chute clamps after everything is working properly

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,036]

Cable wrap on spool. Earlier models did not have a spool - rod only. Let us know if you do not have a spool on the crank rod.

 

[Joe 77 B100 84]

16 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Cable wrap on spool. Earlier models did not have a spool - rod only. Let us know if you do not have a spool on the crank rod.

 

I DO have a spool.   I feel like a woven wire line is going to work the best but then it kinks and bends making it a bit hard to reel one way and then back.   One of those green rubber clothes lines seems like the rubber would stick.  I got it to work but I am not loving the way it works.

[Joe 77 B100 84]

And, has anyone found what distance works well for the risers on the side of the blower auger casing?  The ones that keep the unit from sitting directly on the ground and perhaps picking up stones.  It set them to their highest setting since pulling something hard into that single stage auger seems like it could be pretty dangerous. 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

19 hours ago, wallfish said:

wire rope is recommended 1/8"

 

16 minutes ago, Joe 77 B100 said:

it kinks and bends

 

I used 1/16" stainless on mine.  Kinda thin perhaps, but seems strong enough and the strength rating is fine.  I tried 1/8" first and it wasn't really flexible enough.

 

There are instructions how to wind it in the manuals.