312-8 Trans Oil is Brown

[oldlineman 1,460]

Welcome to the FORM!

[moe1965 734]

I would replace the axle.seals imput and out put ones as well.  Not that hard of a job all seals are around 25.00 bucks.  I just replaced mine on my 312.   Nice ride by the way.  

[moe1965 734]

I would replace the axle.seals imput and out put ones as well.  Not that hard of a job all seals are around 25.00 bucks.  I just replaced mine on my 312.   Nice ride by the way.  

[WHX?? 47,474]

12 hours ago, DeepH2O said:

I work offshore, in South America. I work on a 28 day on/ 28 day off rotation.

Sounds like an interesting job &  for becoming a supporter. Helps keep the lights on & ad free around here. 

[DeepH2O 66]

2 hours ago, moe1965 said:

I would replace the axle.seals imput and out put ones as well.  Not that hard of a job all seals are around 25.00 bucks.  I just replaced mine on my 312.   Nice ride by the way.  

I will definitely look into it. I’ve changed output seals on my Polaris Rzr front diff. I should be able to tackle those. 

[DeepH2O 66]

2 hours ago, moe1965 said:

I would replace the axle.seals imput and out put ones as well.  Not that hard of a job all seals are around 25.00 bucks.  I just replaced mine on my 312.   Nice ride by the way.  

Moe, looking at my parts list, so I see the Input Seal (5/8” ID), but only other seal I see is Axle seals and brake shaft seals. 

[moe1965 734]

My bad. I did say output shaft I ment break shaft  seal.   

[Snoopy11 5,713]

19 hours ago, WHX?? said:

BTW if you been lurking you may already be aware we like

 

Don

[DeepH2O 66]

2 hours ago, moe1965 said:

My bad. I did say output shaft I ment break shaft  seal.   

What about Axle seals? Should I fool with them?

[Maxwell-8 4,272]

Just now, DeepH2O said:

What about Axle seals? Should I fool with them?

I replace them on all my Horses. 

But taking off the hubs can be a real pain..  If you decide to do it, DON'T use a hammer!!! 

Search for hub puller 's plenty of treads on here concerning that.

[Snoopy11 5,713]

1 minute ago, Maxwell-8 said:

I replace them on all my Horses. 

But taking off the hubs can be a real pain..  If you decide to do it, DON'T use a hammer!!! 

Search for hub puller 's plenty of treads on here concerning that.

 

Did I say... ...?

 

Don

[WHX?? 47,474]

2 minutes ago, DeepH2O said:

What about Axle seals? Should I fool with them?

If they are not leaking I wouldn't. What you should do just for grins tho is jack up the rear and try moving the wheel back and forth and up and down and see if there is much wear in the outboard axle bearings. A little movement is ok but not alot. Another bearing failure sign is oil soaked hubs. 

[Snoopy11 5,713]

Just now, WHX?? said:

If they are not leaking I wouldn't

And not give Lowell any business...?

 

Shameful...

 

Don

[Maxwell-8 4,272]

Just now, Snoopy11 said:

 

Did I say... ...?

 

Don

Cause I know the consequence of it   

previous owner used the hammer to pull off the hub and ended like this: 

 

Me on my raider using the hammer to put the hub back on: 

[WHX?? 47,474]

1 minute ago, Snoopy11 said:

And not give Lowell any business...?

 

If it's aint broke don't fix it. 

[Snoopy11 5,713]

1 minute ago, Maxwell-8 said:

Cause I know the consequence of it 

I... am guilty of using a hammer and "tapping" on mine...

 

I don't hit it "hard"... but because I know how "hard" it is to find 3 bolt hubs... I will be less "hard"-headed in the future, and refrain from using a hammer... especially after seeing those pictures...

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,713]

3 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

 

If it's aint broke don't fix it. 

I... have... no comeback...

 

Don

[DeepH2O 66]

Haha! The pains of using the tools you have!! I found out a while back that the parts stores have some really nice tools for rent. The puller kits they have are amazing. Also, U joint press from there saved me a lot of headache, changing U joints in my Polaris!

[DeepH2O 66]

Is the consensus that water got in through basically having no boot cover for stick? As well as possibly faulty seals?? Am I missing any other possible entry places for water into trans? Thanks a million guys!

[SylvanLakeWH 24,612]

Missing boot…

[pfrederi 17,249]

Condensation... Stored outside humid environment big temp swings/.

[tunahead72 2,357]

10 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Condensation... Stored outside humid environment big temp swings/.

 

Good point...  This can be a problem, even without actual penetration of rain or snow through the shift lever opening.

 

[DeepH2O 66]

57 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Condensation... Stored outside humid environment big temp swings/.

We DO have a lot of humidity in the South, but this Horse was ALWAYS kept indoors, it’s entire life. 

[DeepH2O 66]

Boot and seals on order! They should arrive while I’m out on the rig, this time! Gives something to look forward to getting back. 
 

Since I won’t be able to fill with diesel and run it, until after I get back in February, should I leave the cavity empty? Or fill with diesel and let it soak? 

[oliver2-44 9,087]

A 312-8 was my first WH and I did a partial restore on it similar to what your doing.  

 

 

@DeepH2O you were asking about my painting.  I'm no expert, but here's what I've done.   On this 312 and some other things.

 

Where possible I've stripped everything to bare metal.  I use electrolysis (Search Google for E-tank) and also built a sand blast cabinet.

Bare metal is sanded with 320 grit wet/dry paper if not sandblasted.

Use a sanding block or pad, wipe everything down with a clean cloth and a degreaser/wax remover

If metal has some light/fine pitting I spot prime those areas with Rustoleum filler primer (gray) Then I sand those areas back down to almost remove all the gray primer except in the pits. 

I then prime everything with Rustoleum self etching primer (green)

Then I sand everything with 400 grit wet/dry paper and wipe it down again with degreaser

I use Rustoleum Regal Red for paint and use a enamel hardener such as this

When I spray I usually thin my paint  roughly +/- 20% so it will flow together. I use lacquer thinner which flashes off fast which I feel helps reduce runs. Temperatture and the gun you use will dictate how much thinner you use

I apply 3-4 "passes, with 5-15 minutes between passes.

1st a light tack coat that may not quite completely cover  fully

2nd coat almost fully covers everything. 

3rd coat is a full wet coat, but being careful to not make runs

Sometimes a 4th pass if the 3rd pass seemed light.

 

 I decided to clear coat my 312 more as a learning process than it actually needing it. i read and watched how various people did it and came up with the following.  It adds a whole lot of hand sanding and orbital buffer time. 

On the 312 I let dry about 1-2 weeks and block sanded with 600 grit (where I had some orange peel) and then 800 grit everywhere to just knock the gloss off before I clear coated it with Rustoleum  Crystal Clear enamel in spray cans.  Auto Body Gloss Clear (walmart)

 

I then blocked wet sanded with 600 until about 50% of the areas gloss was gone, Then moved to 800,1000,1500,2000 grit. Each time getting a larger amount of gloss area knocked down.  If I started getting red sanding water (indicating I had sanded down through the clear I backed up and hit those areas with some of the same clear available in a rattle can.  I then used a course medium and fine rubbing compound to bring the shine back 

 

I've since learned they make this rustoleun auto body clear available in quarts and am really interested in it.  But it an acrylic enamel, so It should be tested over Regal Red oil base enamel to verify np ill effects. 

 

I want to venture into using true automotive paints , but as a minimum that will increase paint cost 2-4+ times.  The Regal Red with hardener dries better than rattle cans, and hold us very well.  So its hard for me to pay the extra cost on a worker.