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Sodaking27

New key help needed

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Sodaking27

Working on the Bronco 14 today. Purchased a used working electric PTO to install. Removed the duct tape my father in law installed when he removed the PTO and discovered this.

AC8CE6AD-39B9-4CC9-87D8-0B9A4B54585F.jpeg.228fab12dc6a71d32841c02d7b31300e.jpeg
4E6DD59F-7E5F-4CD7-BDED-193C29096458.jpeg.a06c0e91dc669d02a26a48c0dcd99708.jpeg

key appears to be bent up and the back edge is rounded. Can someone provide me the size I need to purchase to replace this and can I get it at TSC? Also any good advice on getting the drive belt pulley off.

Thanks

Don

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Snoopy11
6 minutes ago, Sodaking27 said:

Can someone provide me the size I need to purchase to replace this and can I get it at TSC? Also any good advice on getting the drive belt pulley off.

I personally have made my own out of stainless, and used these at tractor supply. Normally, I don't measure...

 

CountyLine Machinery Key Stock Assortment, Pack of 71, 22KITA090TSC

I use a bearing puller to get my pulleys off...

 

Bearing Puller - Hills Hire

Don

Edited by Snoopy11
typo
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Snoopy11

Normally, I put a small impact socket on the end here to avoid having the center portion go into the crankshaft...

 

776547418_bearingpuller.jpg.be166ad7100dd76043b00dffea4074e2.jpg

 

You can use an impact along with the puller to quickly remove the pulley.:)

 

Don

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squonk

You need a harmonic balancer ( bolt grip) puller. Puller bolts into the threaded holes on the pulley. A puller that grabs the edge of the pulley will break it.

 

Flange Puller, 3/8in-24x3in,  3/8in-16x3in

Edited by squonk
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Snoopy11
3 minutes ago, squonk said:

You need a harmonic balancer ( bolt grip) puller. Puller bolts into the threaded holes on the pulley. A puller that grabs the edge of the pulley will break it.

I was just going to ask for a picture. I have never seen nor used one like that. :bow-blue:

 

I might have to get myself one...

 

Do you know of a video of someone using one of those bad-boys? :confusion-confused:

 

Don

 

 

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Snoopy11

Mike is right, @Sodaking27... you do run the risk of breaking/bending the pulley.

 

Come to think of it, I did bend one of mine using my bearing puller. I had to buy a new one... :angry-cussingblack:

 

Don

 

 

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pfrederi

1/4" stock for the key

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squonk

image.png.b038a68fed4940852c141d2ea07b8cb1.png

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Snoopy11
3 minutes ago, squonk said:

image.png.b038a68fed4940852c141d2ea07b8cb1.png

I am picking one of those up next time I go to Lowes... looks like about 17$

 

That could have made my life much easier... days... months... years ago... :laughing-rolling:

 

Don

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pacer

Definitely get one of those --- its a must not only for the horses (flywheel comes to mind!) but many other applications.

 

Another puller is called a 'clam shell puller' (I think thats the correct term) HF also has both types

 

Also, that key looks OK, just needs to be tapped down in the slot -- after youve taken it out and filed off the nicks....

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Sodaking27

Thanks to everyone for their input. That’s what makes this site so awesome. I will be picking up one of the harmonic balance pullers tomorrow. Looks like someone else tried removing the pulley from pulling on the side. You can see a chunk is already in the picture.Also going to replace the idler pulley and belt while I have it apart. Toro belt or blue Kevlar from TSC?

Thanks again everyone. :handgestures-thumbupright:

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SylvanLakeWH

I’ve used the tsc blue belts before with good results… others swear by the toro… no experience with them…

 

:twocents-twocents:

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pacer

Not familiar with Toro, but I am a strong believer in the blue belts - they seem to last forever. I get mine at a bearing supply business.

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moe1965

I would definatly use a puller like squonk .recomended.  less chance of breaking the castiron pully.  Then your looking for a replacement 

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Wheelhorse#1
5 hours ago, squonk said:

You need a harmonic balancer ( bolt grip) puller.

 

Flange Puller, 3/8in-24x3in,  3/8in-16x3in


I bought a set like this but with more bolt assortments .Not bad, got it at Harbor Fraud 

 

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squonk

Don't forget to remove the allen screws that hold it on. Also if you have a 1/4' tap it's a good idea to clean the threads on the pulley so the bolts go in far enough to get a solid bite on the pulley.

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Snoopy11

@Sodaking27... blue kevlar from TSC is quite good.

 

If you want the best (and want some to keep on hand), I would order some BANDO belts from Bearings and Industrial supply. Give them a call and they will hook you up with some OUTRAGEOUSLY good quality belts...

 

Don

Edited by Snoopy11

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Snoopy11
21 hours ago, pacer said:

flywheel comes to mind

Wow! I never thought about using that to remove a flywheel! I have my own method for doing that, but I think the harmonic balancer puller would work just as good! :)

 

Don

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pacer
26 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

to remove a flywheel!

 

Yep, it does good - I run it up til its got a strong pull and the whack it with a hammer, usually pop right off, if not, take another half turn or so and whack it again. 

I also mentioned the 'clam shell' pullers, when you have a splined steering wheel (like 'D' series) Reverse the 'clams' backwards to the flat side on the back of wheel and pull against the shaft.

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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, pacer said:

 

Yep, it does good - I run it up til its got a strong pull and the whack it with a hammer, usually pop right off, if not, take another half turn or so and whack it again. 

I also mentioned the 'clam shell' pullers, when you have a splined steering wheel (like 'D' series) Reverse the 'clams' backwards to the flat side on the back of wheel and pull against the shaft.

The steering wheel in my Ranger was a ...bad word to get off...

 

I did use my bearing puller to get it off... which worked fine... just wasn't the "proper" tool... :rolleyes:

 

Don

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Wheelhorse#1
4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Wow! I never thought about using that to remove a flywheel! I have my own method for doing that, but I think the harmonic balancer puller would work just as good! :)

 

Don

 

The Ole Pry Bar and wack method.Works but I have had one or two that wouldn’t budge without doing damage anyway.

The puller is a must have, also a air hammer for extra stubborn stuff !

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Snoopy11
2 minutes ago, Wheelhorse#1 said:

The Ole Pry Bar and wack method

That the method that I use!!! :banana-dance:

 

Don

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Sodaking27

Thanks to everyone’s advice it’s all fixed. Just waiting on the new connectors for the clutch. Ended up going to my local WH dealer and picking up a new belt. Thought it was interesting the belt actually had Wheel Horse on it. Wondering how old the belt is.

C6E8AFE8-5F39-4F2A-BAA3-22F3A2EEB741.jpeg.0348afe68534cfea4b6889fdc5bcd3b6.jpeg
 

7913AC71-6D02-4845-B0F8-32B240665D51.jpeg.61542c5e788dd7f22366660cc6ec9a6c.jpeg

 

3539B8D0-C71E-4796-B9FB-6E9AB3F48143.jpeg.e59e730b282f857c3bb0a9a8c1c38b2a.jpeg
 

Now I need to drop the snow plow bracket and put it on correctly so it moves the leaver back away from the clutch.

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RetroMower
On 1/2/2022 at 4:03 PM, squonk said:

You need a harmonic balancer ( bolt grip) puller. Puller bolts into the threaded holes on the pulley. A puller that grabs the edge of the pulley will break it.

 

Flange Puller, 3/8in-24x3in,  3/8in-16x3in

This puller has been a longtime resident in my toolbox since forever. You'll likely want an assortment of different bolt lengths and diameters. My only advice with these is the pointy inserts that center in whatever shaft you are trying to rid of its gear or pulley. If used it can dig and flare the end of smaller shafts if great force is necessary. Use a flat insert when possible to break it free and switch to the pointy one with grease to finish removal 

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EB-80/8inPA
3 hours ago, Sodaking27 said:

Now I need to drop the snow plow bracket and put it on correctly so it moves the leaver back away from the clutch.

 

Some before and after pictures of that would be appreciated.

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