Steering Wheel Cracks-Repair

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Another RS member and I were recently discussing his wanting to do a old W-H roundhood steering wheel restoration. 

I shared with him the process I used, once I  re-found the picts I took last year.

Posting them here as well, with hope that they may help someone thinking about restoring their's too.

First, a couple picts of what I started with here.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 5, 2022 by AMC RULES

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My process starts with a cleaning of the wheel, to the best of your ability, to remove as much of the dirt and nasty black surface oxidation that just never seems to stop coming off.

Just keep going though, it will eventually stop.

Once you're happy with that you can proceed to opening up any breaks in your wheels material.

Cut off wheel on a Dremel tool is my go to method for this.

 

 

 

Basically just relief cutting them major cracks at a 45° angle.

 

 

Then, switching over to an small, maybe 1/8th inch drill bit to add some tooth in them cracks for your repair material to attach to.

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by AMC RULES

[AMC RULES 37,130]

I then find some small wire to act as a support structure, and start working it into some of them holes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by AMC RULES

[Pullstart 62,867]

Then what?

 

Your method reminds me of interstate core repairs.  They cut out a huge chunk, then drill into the next pieces and toss some rebar down the hole.  Something to hold onto. 

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At this point, you can proceed to replacing the lost material.

I chose to use PC-7, it's a two part epoxy I've had great results working with over the years.

 

Start by thoroughly mixing two relatively equal parts of the material together.

Doesn't have to be exact, just looking for a uniform grey color to the material before you apply.

I like to start applying with a flat tip screwdriver to ensure the epoxy gets driven into some of them holes I drilled. Holes aren't deep, maybe just 1/8" deep. This is what is going to help ensure your repair is tied into the original remaining material left on your wheel.

 

Don't get into too much of a hurry here, just work all of this repair process in small stages that you can easily control.

Here you note that once I have the crack filled I am using just a water wetted finger to smooth out the epoxy as best I can while it's still easily workable, before it starts to set up.

Dipping into the water frequently serves to keep the epoxy from adhering to you, and your smoothing process working nicely.

Here you'll notice these repairs are starting to take shape.

You may have to remix another small batch to add more material where ever necessary.

 

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I typically like to work with epoxy during them summer months, when it's hot outside. Helps to make the process proceed in a timely fashion, only needing about 45mins of drying time between each step of the process. 

Oncy the epoxy starts to set up you want to start removing any excess, and start shaping your repairs before they become rock hard. 

I like to do this with a variety of files and rasps I have on hand here. Just work each repaired area to a finished state as quickly as possible.

Then let it dry for 24 hours.

 

 

After the epoxy is good and solid you can now move onto your finish state with a medium 320 grit sandpaper. You'll want to sand the entire wheel at this point in preparation for the painting process which follows.

 

 

 

[Pullstart 62,867]

Awesome. I figured PC7 is your go-to.  I recall that it grinds and files just as hard as steel.  Do you ever notice an issue of the plastic removing away faster than the epoxy?

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Before painting you'll want to re-clean the wheel with a good quality, automotive grade wax and grease remover before shooting with paint.

Any old black will do, I just used the off the shelf black Napa has to offer here. Give that ample time to dry, say one week.

Then follow up with a few coats of a quality gloss clear and you're good to go. I'm partial to the "Diamond Clear" that the Eastwood company offers, because it's easy to work with, is within reason, gas and oil resistant, and dries hard as a rock in it's finished state.

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15 minutes ago, Pullstart said:

Awesome. I figured PC7 is your go-to.  I recall that it grinds and files just as hard as steel.  Do you ever notice an issue of the plastic removing away faster than the epoxy?

Not sure I'm understanding your question Kevin.

[Pullstart 62,867]

18 minutes ago, AMC RULES said:

Not sure I'm understanding your question Kevin.

Do you ever notice if the plastic around the PC7 sands away quicker than the epoxy?  

[AMC RULES 37,130]

Well, I suppose it could if you concentrated too much pressure sanding on them repaired areas.

Part of my reasoning when I suggest you work that epoxy as much as possible to a finished state before it sets up completely. 

You're correct, that epoxy is going to dry much harder than that steering wheel's original material.

Best to have it worked very near to it's final shape before that happens.

 

 

Edited December 29, 2021 by AMC RULES

[ebinmaine 67,494]

I've brought this up a time or two with a person or two over the years.

Never tried it myself.

 

Very nice work there Craig. Thank you for sharing this.

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So, I've been asked how long this repair process took.

I'd say that from start to finish, I put the better part of a whole working day, 8hrs working straight through, getting this thing into the nearly finished state of the epoxying process.

Then, of course, allowing the adquate drying time for your painting process is up to you.

Just work the process in small manageable steps, at what ever speed you feel comfortable with.    

[c-series don 8,707]

Very nice work Craig. When I first saw that wheel I thought to myself “That thing is shot” and you totally proved me wrong. Thank you for sharing this, I’m sure it will be helpful to many of us here! 

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Will take some new picts of the finished product to share here.

You have to remember the picts you see I've posted above are photos of archieved images on my home computer monitor.

Leaving much to be desired in clarity. 

[Thor27 767]

Nice work! Thank you for posting!

[SylvanLakeWH 25,557]

Thanks!!!

 

Great work!

 

 

[953 nut 55,228]

Craig, this is a great post              I have asked that it be moved to the "Instructional Threads" section so it can be found more easily.

I seem to recall someone saying they have used VHT vinyl dye on a steering wheel rather than paint because of it's durability, anyone try this?

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  I've discovered it's best for me to hide most of my posts here Richard, as it's not unusual for them to "disappear" once they get noticed.   

Here's hoping "they" won't find this one is too controversial too. 

🤣😂🤣😂

Edited December 30, 2021 by AMC RULES

[oliver2-44 9,750]

I've found that a coarse file, then fine fine, then sandpaper works well to shape PC7 and JB Weld.

Also after you've mixed the epoxy spray and mix in some black spray paint to tint it black.  On small repairs you might not even need to paint the hole wheel

Edited December 30, 2021 by oliver2-44