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Fishroe

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Fishroe

B6C8B8C0-E1A9-4CB5-ABFF-3FC0EEDE9920.jpeg.6b37aefadc90c943cf9553b56b94d60b.jpegSoaking with pb blaster. Waiting for roll pin punch and flange bearing to arrive. Found thread from wp205a in 2012 about putting 1” open end wrench under the wheel. First try will be 2 jaw gear puller on the slide hammer. If necessary 3 jaw (if there’s room) and hit it with impact. What is that rubbery material on the outside of the, I assume, a bushing 

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peter lena

@Fishroe , most important part of wheel roll pin removal is to solidly brace the wheel up against a wall beam , or other solid immovable area. if you think that bouncing your impact off the side of the wheel will work  , it won't. having done this on my horses , your impact must not bounce , has to be solid impact , like a 3 lb hammer , with a solid face size to size punch. with wheel solidly backed up your first hit will start the move , spray as you go . another thing i did was , to fine wire brush out the holes involved , new roll pin with never seize in hole and inside the roll pin . had wheels of a number of times since , no problems , correct the problem while there . the more solid your impact point , the more results you will have , pete 

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Lee1977

I wish you luck. but I would look down in there for the most open space and saw it into. Then sleeve it back together.

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Achto

Probably your best chance at getting that roll pin out is to drill it out. A 1/4" carbide bit is the only drill that will work on that roll pin. A inexpensive carbide tipped concrete bit will work just fine. Run your drill speed fast and let it chew through.

After the roll pin is removed. If you can get the assembly into a hydraulic press, this will separate the shaft from the wheel.

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squonk

I have sheared the roll pin in half before. But it took a small and large bearing separator behind the the wheel, a 20 ton 2 jaw gear puller, a chain to hold the gear puller together and a 24" crescent wrench to do it. Wish I took pics! :(

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