Auto 18 Hydro leak. Axles and lines

[daveoman1966 3,752]

Regarding the transaxle:  I made a copy/paste from the Toro MPV of the 18hp Auto transmission and prepared this condensed Excel SS that may be useful in gettin the "old girl's" gear box back in shape.  There may also be some 'Auto Trans' repair videos on Youtube and I'll have a look-C for something like that.  

 

 

18 Auto Transaxle.xlsx

[daveoman1966 3,752]

This Auto tranx has far fewer parts than a manual trans making repair and parts replacement much easier.  Here are a few pics a 'C' series Auto Tranx and gear setup.  The 'D' series is nearly exactly the same. 

ps...I did not find a Youtube video for the Auto Trans repair.       

[wheelhorse-c-161-1979 117]

Hi Dave, Those pics! 
 

Looks like open heart surgery, but I’m fine with dropping the transaxle as I prepare to transfer the ARK front end loader framework to the D200. 
 

First off.. How do I put the hubs back on , so I can move the tractor indoors? 

 

Moving it indoors would make work a lot easier to work on the tractor. 

 

Now  I can definitely open the transaxle, by removing bolts. 

Question 

1. If I open it up? Is there a gasket seal that I will have to break?

 

2. If I open it up, are parts going to spring out like a Jack in the Box? 
 

Thank you my friend for a little insight into this Pandora’s transaxle unit:)

🗽🙏🇺🇸

[Handy Don 12,237]

Can't speak to "jack in the box" parts .  

There are no shifting gears in your axle--the hydro takes care of that--so it's only reduction gears and the differential.

It will need a new gasket, but they are readily available at wheelhorsepartsandmore (see the Vendor section of this site).

Pretty sure that if you clean up the axle (fine file to take off any burrs and so forth and fine emory paper to make sure it's smooth) and do the same for the inside of the hub and then lube both before the install, you can work the hubs back on pretty easily. The setscrew should hold fine for just gently moving it around.

[wheelhorse-c-161-1979 117]

Dave you da man! 
Cheers to you my friend! 
 

I’ll check the oil filter for any metal shavings,…  isn’t there also a lil  magnetic strainer, I could check with no invasive surgery? 

 

Then,  I’ll throw the wheels back on, and should be able to park her to disassemble her & Build Back Better! Hhuuhh!🤮🤮🤮

 

Can’t believe I said that! lol

Jacques 

 

Edited February 16, 2022 by nylyon
Political content removed, please see guidelines

[daveoman1966 3,752]

Yes.. there is a trans gasket part # 5999 (item 12 in schematic) widely available.  There wouldn't be any 'surprises' when you open this for surgery.  After you remove the 5 or 6 bolts holding it together, I suggest you invert it to avoid parts 'dropping' out.  That is, position the tranx with the LEFT side UP...(Hyd Motor side).     

The filter SCREEN is also in the schematic as # 37... CAUTION...this screen MAY drop out when your remove the Hyd Motor.    

[pfrederi 17,741]

The Sunstrand Manual walks you through ti pretty well.

 

[wheelhorse-c-161-1979 117]

7 hours ago, pfrederi said:

The Sunstrand Manual walks you through ti pretty well.

Thank you Paul, Sir! 
I will drop the transaxle and open Pandora's box.

 

It's already an adventure, might as well push forward✊
Ignorance is on my side! 
 

Thank you Dan, ManicM, Dave for this education. 🙏 

I will keep you posted on the progress. 
First step will be inspecting the hydro filter for metal. 
Then hopefully moving the tractor into the garage.

 

To be continued! 
I'm grateful to all of your support!

✊🗽🙏🇺🇸
Jacques 

 

 

[wheelhorse-c-161-1979 117]

On 2/15/2022 at 3:55 AM, daveoman1966 said:

This Auto tranx has far fewer parts than a manual trans making repair and parts replacement much easier.  Here are a few pics a 'C' series Auto Tranx and gear setup.  The 'D' series is nearly exactly the same. 

ps...I did not find a Youtube video for the Auto Trans repair.       

Hi Dave,  

As the saga continues... I removed the oil filter and no visible metal shavings. So I'd like to put in new axle seals.
 

In the manual it says inner diameter 1" ⅛, but I have no idea where to buy the parts for each axle. I'm pretty sure you probably know the part number from memory, lol. 

 

Therefore if you or Paul can tell me where to order it, I'll attempt to remove the old ones, for two new seals. 
 

Then I'll be in a better position in my garage, to swap out the ARK FEL cage to the D200. 
 

Keeping my fingers crossed to hear back from you.

Thanks as always!

 

 

All the best,

Jacques

✊🗽🙏🇺🇸

[daveoman1966 3,752]

The axle seal (#16 in schematic) is OEM part # 6449. It is shown as available from this source for about $16 each (x2).  I often use this website for OEM parts...cheapest I've found.  'Pats' also has the 'reverse look-up' feature.     https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp?aribrand=TO#/Toro_Consumer/1-0601%2c_18_hp_AutomaticTractor%2c_1973/Transaxle-Component_Parts/329512fe-c981-4f00-9605-21c4bf7a218e/d9083e49-da20-4662-a7ad-0d803fd06ff8 

 

 

[pfrederi 17,741]

Seal is SKF 11124 probably can get it ordered at local auto parts store

[wheelhorse-c-161-1979 117]

On 3/6/2022 at 1:36 AM, daveoman1966 said:

The axle seal (#16 in schematic) is OEM part # 6449. It is shown as available from this source for about $16 each (x2).  I often use this website for OEM parts...cheapest I've found.  'Pats' also has the 'reverse look-up' feature.     https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp?aribrand=TO#/Toro_Consumer/1-0601%2c_18_hp_AutomaticTractor%2c_1973/Transaxle-Component_Parts/329512fe-c981-4f00-9605-21c4bf7a218e/d9083e49-da20-4662-a7ad-0d803fd06ff8 

 

 

David, Paul Don & all senior Red Square Academy professors, I humbly bow to you all. Your encyclopedic knowledge continues to amaze me after all these years.

Thank you seals ordered.... to be continued...

On a total tangent.... Nice thing about being down here,  is that 89 & 96 Octane Zero Ethanol  gas are available.   Only thing  missing would be a nice lead additive 😁

["Manic-Mechanic" 1,194]

20 hours ago, wheelhorse-c-161-1979 said:

David, Paul Don & all senior Red Square Academy professors, I humbly bow to you all. Your encyclopedic knowledge continues to amaze me after all these years.

Thank you seals ordered.... to be continued...

On a total tangent.... Nice thing about being down here,  is that 89 & 96 Octane Zero Ethanol  gas are available.   Only thing  missing would be a nice lead additive 😁

Not sure, did anyone mention changing the bolts to grade #8 while your in there?

[JPWH 6,040]

Ffffffffffffrfc xxx DD xzxzz

[wheelhorse-c-161-1979 117]

I post this on March 31st to avoid any April fool references!
So I managed to pull off both old transaxle seals, with my shinny new seals ready to be popped back in, so I could hopefully put her back together.

 

Instead I discovered behind both transaxles a thin sleeve with a broken rim, (it appears) against which the new seals would rest against. 
So I have played out my hand to the end of the easy solution.

Can you confirm what I am looking at in these photos?   Obviously I will now proceed to drop the transaxle to open it up.

If I can rebuild this transaxle with the generous guidance of your knowledge, I think it will be easier than to drop the whole Ark 550 FEL cage and transfer it to my spare tractor, which is a last resort.

" I cried because I had no shoes, until I met a man who had no feet"

 

Never give up!

Phil 4:13

Thanks again to  Manic, Pfrederi and Dave for your counsel as I begin to remove the transaxle.... to be continued 

Jacques
✊🗽🙏🇺🇸

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

7 minutes ago, wheelhorse-c-161-1979 said:

what I am looking at in these photos?

 

Are you sure those aren't pieces of the old seal that broke off and went further in, hiding from your poking metal tools?

 

 

[Handy Don 12,237]

Can you see beyond to confirm that the carriers for the axle needle bearing is intact?

Is there still no lateral or vertical movement of the axle that would indicate worn or broken axle bearing?

If yes, then I do think you are looking at debris from an earlier seal that you can carefully pull out and examine.