Fuel line routing

[RetroMower 349]

Ok firstly, pretend all that green is red lol. In the pic provided, is that a safe place to route a fuel line behind the aluminum backing plate and aside of the head? It's a k181 and almost every time is see one of these restored its routed outside and just laying against the flywheel cover. I'm wondering if this is how some people do it. 

[RED-Z06 2,379]

1 minute ago, RetroMower said:

Ok firstly, pretend all that green is red lol. In the pic provided, is that a safe place to route a fuel line behind the aluminum backing plate and aside of the head? It's a k181 and almost every time is see one of these restored its routed outside and just laying against the flywheel cover. I'm wondering if this is how some people do it. 

I prefer to keep my fuel cool, cool fuel makes for a cooler intake charge, but I have seen them routed like that

[WHX?? 49,923]

Since it looks like you are running gravity fed I would run it in a manner that best suits where the fuel tank is. Even if you change that strait fitting to a 90 your going to need some elevation on the tank to keep the carb fed. Changing the fitting to a 90 and routing the line up over the top of the shroud if gas tank placement allows. 

[RetroMower 349]

33 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Since it looks like you are running gravity fed I would run it in a manner that best suits where the fuel tank is. Even if you change that strait fitting to a 90 your going to need some elevation on the tank to keep the carb fed. Changing the fitting to a 90 and routing the line up over the top of the shroud if gas tank placement allows. 

The original route is as you've drawn out in front of the flywheel cover. Gravity shouldn't be an issue as the gas tank bottom is above the carb by a comfortable margin. My concern was the fuel line melting. You can also see how it was run but it looks terrible that way. 

Edited December 22, 2021 by RetroMower

[SylvanLakeWH 26,594]

I’d sacrifice looks on this one and go with the original location / @WHX??’s suggestion…

 

 

And paint that thing red please…!

I can’t feel my eyes…! 

 

 

Edited December 22, 2021 by SylvanLakeWH

[Snoopy11 5,717]

6 minutes ago, RetroMower said:

My concern was the fuel line melting.

You can always also run some fuel line heat shield...

 

 

Don

[Snoopy11 5,717]

Correct me if I am wrong here boys, but isn't the fuel line routed like @RetroMower's idea here? 

 

 

Don

[stevasaurus 22,968]

@Snoopy11  "See my below", is not going to count in your post count...knock it off.  You are just wasting space.  In fact, most of your posts could be in one post.  Post count does not win any prizes...useful posts count.  You have a lot going for you, grow up.  

[Snoopy11 5,717]

11 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

@Snoopy11  "See my below", is not going to count in your post count...knock it off.  You are just wasting space.  In fact, most of your posts could be in one post.  Post count does not win any prizes...useful posts count.  You have a lot going for you, grow up.  

@stevasaurus...

 

Sir, it wasn't purposeful. I did it on accident. 

 

I was hoping you would remove it. 

 

I don't give a Horses' patoot about my post count.  

 

Thanks Steve 

 

Don

[WHX?? 49,923]

I don't mind it's green Retro as long as isn't in my herd.  I do have the utmost respect for all restorers/collectors regardless of race, color or creed and looks like someone is showing that tractor some love. 

I have a few horses that run the fuel line through  ther with no issues but they all dump into a pump. Any idea how the original setup was? Since it's on the cool side of the jug I don't think heat would be a problem. I would  worry more about the gravity feed.  'Course that looks like a hefty tank that would push some fuel & maybe why JD had the no pump spec on the motor.

I would be tempted to see if I could put a 90 on the carb inlet and go up over the top of the shroud. Maybe a couple nifty clamps on the shroud? Just thinkin out loud here. 

If your first pic is orginal I would also be tempted to just try that. I just don't like the way the line would have to curl up and go into a strait carb inlet. 

Edited December 23, 2021 by WHX??

[RetroMower 349]

51 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

I don't mind it's green Retro as long as isn't in my herd.  I do have the utmost respect for all restorers/collectors regardless of race, color or creed and looks like someone is showing that tractor some love. 

I have a few horses that run the fuel line through  ther with no issues but they all dump into a pump. Any idea how the original setup was? Since it's on the cool side of the jug I don't think heat would be a problem. I would  worry more about the gravity feed.  'Course that looks like a hefty tank that would push some fuel & maybe why JD had the no pump spec on the motor.

I would be tempted to see if I could put a 90 on the carb inlet and go up over the top of the shroud. Maybe a couple nifty clamps on the shroud? Just thinkin out loud here. 

If your first pic is orginal I would also be tempted to just try that. I just don't like the way the line would have to curl up and go into a strait carb inlet. 

I absolutely would put a 90° downward facing elbow. Hearing you have some horses routed this way alleviates my melting concern. I dont think gravity would be any more an issue this way than draped in front of the flywheel cover. And yes this tractor is getting lots o love and even more money lol. I have a few progress pics in "other brands" I haven't posted any lately because finally I've reached the end of a loooong road of sandblasting and painting and my next post will be when things finally start going back together 

Edited December 23, 2021 by RetroMower

[dmoore 930]

I have this same question on my 78 C-101.  Its been 26 years ago but I do believe I remember pulling the fuel hose through that opening behind blower housing. There a grove or channel right behind the starter solenoid top of the bearing plate to start the hose. However now I can't seem to push a 1/4" I.D. hose through the same area. Like most I've seen when tractor was restored 26 years ago I routed it at the bottom following the shroud contour and up to the pump inlet. I am a purist and want it to be as original.    

[WHX?? 49,923]

That's what I do as that was factory but of course we all all have fuel pumps. This way also keeps it out of the way in getting the battery out. 

How you coming on this project @RetroMower ? 

[peter lena 8,971]

@WHX??  looks like a natural setting for that , when ever I lay out a fuel / wiring or cabling initial set up , make it as smooth as possible . your rubber lined clamps help out . on cables , do the initial mount , and move the cable around as you try its function stroke . add super lube to that , and add cable clamps to hold the easiest working slide action . then detail lube related linkage to the cable , should be very smooth . thats where  I  add  a small pull spring to assist action . electrical wiring , is cable wrapped and supported , eliminate tight bends to wiring . chafing , these 3 areas used to be a real PIA , since going to this setup , been  bombproof , just a process of elimination points . often staring you right in the face. only me pete 

[peter lena 8,971]

@WHX??    that small spring cable pull reference , ever try to push a cable ?  thats what I came to , cables go to lever linkage , think about it , lubricate that lever area , so it moves with effort , now add a small extension spring to the pull back to close lever point . no mount handy ?  tie on a piece of light wire to mount the spring , just to see the effects . sound crazy ?  it works , have lots of hours and running with it , totally goes against what others do ,definitely  worth a trial run , super lube , pete

[richmondred01 2,280]

On 3/23/2022 at 9:50 PM, dmoore said:

I have this same question on my 78 C-101.  Its been 26 years ago but I do believe I remember pulling the fuel hose through that opening behind blower housing. There a grove or channel right behind the starter solenoid top of the bearing plate to start the hose. However now I can't seem to push a 1/4" I.D. hose through the same area. Like most I've seen when tractor was restored 26 years ago I routed it at the bottom following the shroud contour and up to the pump inlet. I am a purist and want it to be as original.    

Your correct. Back in the 70’s the k181 line was run in back of the bearing plate. However, the fuel line outside diameter was smaller. With the newer fuel lines it’s difficult and very tough to pull through especially with the stator wires in the way. If you really want it back there it should be placed prior to installing the bearing plate. 
 

[Bill D 2,050]

1 hour ago, richmondred01 said:

Your correct. Back in the 70’s the k181 line was run in back of the bearing plate. However, the fuel line outside diameter was smaller. With the newer fuel lines it’s difficult and very tough to pull through especially with the stator wires in the way. If you really want it back there it should be placed prior to installing the bearing plate. 
 

Consider buying Tecumseh spec fuel hose for this application.  It has a slightly smaller OD than most fuel lines.  

[rjg854 11,710]

Have you tried any of the newer translucent fuel line?  That has a smaller OD than the black rubber fuel line.  That may be an option for you.

[WHX?? 49,923]

 

28 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

newer translucent fuel line

I haven't yet but I know EB uses it with no problems. I buy the regular rubber stuff by the roll off the jungle or where ever. Replacing line in a rear tank tractor one can go thru a roll quickly. Prolly the purist in me but mainly as I got the the hose clamp things in bulk too. 

 

Really gone up in price lately but what hasn't? 

1/4"

 

clamps