854 Clutch / Brake Rod Upgrade

[ri702bill 8,328]

A tip of the WH hat to @peter lena for mentioning this in an earlier reply to a posting - this works well - what a difference.

I noticed I had a LOT of lost motion - almost an inch -  in the linkage when moving the pedal - almost 60 years of use and the metal - on - metal joint where the rod goes thru the cast iron pedal was pretty worn out. The 3/8 hole in the casting was egg shaped and the end of the rod was about 1/3 gone. I could have welded up the rod and machined it - but why? The same thing will happen again.

Bought a 3 foot length of zinc coated steel rod, a 3/8 Heim Joint, and a 3/8" bronze flange bushing. Threaded the rod and bent it into shape; reamed the pedal pivot hole for a press fit with the bushing. Installed it using Pete's favorite green grease on the trunion threads and the pedal pivot bore.

A machining note - cutting the 3/8-24 fine thread with a die for the rod end was not easy . I usually just chamfer the end as I would with a coarse thread, but the fine thread would not bite into the rod to get the first thread started. Had to use a trick I learned years ago - undercut the rod by about .020 diameter for the first 1/4" or so, leaving a chamfer at both ends - this acts like a pilot for the die - keeps it aligned square to the rod. Thread it to the length desired and cut off the pilot.

Once assembled, I noticed the 3/8 oversized jamnut I chose hit the oil drain cap - back downstairs to open up a 5/16" hexnut in the lathe and rethread it to 3/8-16 - no more clearance issue.

The best part of this is that an original rod still fits - if I could find a NOS one.

Bill

Edited December 20, 2021 by ri702bill

[ebinmaine 67,593]

Excellent work there Sir. 

 

Gives me an idea of how to tighten up the directional rod on my plow....

 

 

[ri702bill 8,328]

@ebinmaine Thanks - I may do just the same thing with my 48" angling rod in the spring - it is a true PIA to reattach the rod to the quadrant - not much room at all to get the cotter pin in and bent -  might just weld up the hole and retap it or weld a nut plate inside .... would do a new  zinc plated rod and 2 rod ends.

Bill

 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

11 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

@ebinmaine Thanks - I may do just the same thing with my 48" angling rod in the spring - it is a true PIA to reattach the rod to the quadrant - not much room at all to get the cotter pin in and bent -  might just weld up the hole and retap it or weld a nut plate inside .... would do a new  zinc plated rod and 2 rod ends.

Bill

 

 

I've been wanting to refresh my own quadrant and add the 2 middle range angle holes. 

While it is apart would be a great time to set up this modification. 

 

[ri702bill 8,328]

Take your time adding the 2 mid position holes - it can be done with a hand drill with the quadrant in the vise - I did mine in the milling machine to assure the centerline height of the new holes matched the existing - and add a small chamfer lead-in to all the holes - makes for easier pin engagement.

Bill

[peter lena 8,634]

@ri702bill , nice job on that  ! thought I was looking at my own work !  changed  over  to HEIM JOINTS  years ago , just made sense ,to eliminate and rethread. Another thing I do is to , fine cutting nut over a course thread, for a HEIM CHANGE . end of pto lever rod , makes lever solid /smooth . also, have HEIMS om my dozer blade quadrant to lever control arm . try to find my picture . that quadrant lubrication detailing is vital for easy use. done that on my 2 blades , also set them up on milk crates , to check function and correct what ever else would enhance easy operation . glad to see that you have crossed over to the DARK SIDE to correct a problem area , have to warn you , that corrective mind set of " what if " ? will have you looking at a problem differently , like making that problem go away . stay at it , good work , pete    

[peter lena 8,634]

@ri702bill , snow blower chute knob,  just made sense to me , grind taper start , die nut , pete

 

[ebinmaine 67,593]

56 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Take your time adding the 2 mid position holes - it can be done with a hand drill with the quadrant in the vise - I did mine in the milling machine to assure the centerline height of the new holes matched the existing - and add a small chamfer lead-in to all the holes - makes for easier pin engagement.

Bill

 

Excellent advice. Thank you. 

I like the chamfer idea. I'll ad that to the list. 

 

[peter lena 8,634]

@ebinmaine like that small chamfer enhancement to holes, as you know that quadrant area , is seldom looked at , loaded with rust and sloppy everything . thats what had me turn to , OPERATIONAL FUNCTION DETAIL , with raised plow and frame off floor on crates . roller stooling around and looking for issues , lead me to small firming up and lubrication detail . love the fact that when finished , your off the floor look at quadrant / lever ease / action , is exactly what you are putting on your tractor , road testing it before use , make it work with ease, from smooth easy lever release squeeze to effortless blade swing . realize this freaks out many , but thats what I do to correct a problem . go lucas, pete

[peter lena 8,634]

@ri702bill  improve pto lever action ,  bill , note top photo , washers to pto lever start point, obvious  heim joints, battery tender plug in , makes it easy , and last , note cable going to engine corner / frame ? cable connects battery ground bolt on upper ground rail , for improved starting grounding , don,t get me started , pete