5053 getting stuck in two gears

[pfrederi 17,741]

A few years ago I built a frankenhorse tractor for my brother to use up in Maine to maneuver his boat trailer around.  i don't remember who/what donated the tranny but it is a 3 speed . 1" axle  brake drum on the 11 and 44 tooth gear shaft.    It got stuck in two gears he realigned it but then it happened again.  Made up a Charger 12 for him as the hydro was easier for him to control, he has some mobility issues.  Anyway the Frankenhorse is home and twice now it has gotten stuck in two gears.  Gear oil is clean and is 90w.   I have the same tranny in my Fathers L-107 which originally recommended 40w motor oil and that is what she has run on for 54+ years winter and summer with no tranny issues.  I am wondering if the cold weather and gear oil is causing the issue as I recall @stevasaurus talking about a suction issue with the shift rails.  Is there a fix or maybe just put in 40w oil   ????

[stevasaurus 22,765]

If those gears are doing that this often, might be something else going on.  This usually happens when shifting from 3rd to reverse or reverse to 3rd too fast or not stopping or shifting in a sloppy "H" pattern.  I'm thinking you know all of that so, after giving it some thought, I wonder if worn détente balls could be part of your issue.   You can certainly try going to 40 wt, it will not hurt the transmission.

   If you feel like opening it, it is a 5025, change out the shift rails to the newer kind with the flat side.  You could grind a flat edge on yours, or go to A-Z Tractors and get or trade Lincoln for a set.  They will fit right in.  

[pfrederi 17,741]

2 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

If those gear are doing that this often, might be something else going on.  This usually happens when shifting from 3rd to reverse or reverse to 3rd too fast or not stopping or shifting in a sloppy "H" pattern.  I'm thinking you know all of that so, after giving it some thought, I wonder if worn détente balls could be part of your issue.   You can certainly try going to 40 wt, it will not hurt the transmission.

   If you feel like opening it, it is a 5025, change out the shift rails to the newer kind with the flat side.  You could grind a flat edge on yours, or go to A-Z Tractors and get or trade Lincoln for a set.  They will fit right in.  

 

 

I do not know what my brother did to it I am sure he tried to be careful but his mobility issues means he may have kicked the gear shift occasionally getting on and off.. 

If I try grinding is there a pic that shows where???  I have about 90 detente balls as i no longer chase them i just bought bagfull from McMaster

[stevasaurus 22,765]

Yes, I have a picture.  BTW, if your trans was a 5053, it would have the new shift rails in it...that was one of the changes.

 

This is what you have...

 

This is what you want...

[pfrederi 17,741]

Thanks Steve!!!!  Not sure yet what this tractor will be used for.  May take cheap way out initially 40w oil.

[wallfish 17,014]

My 654 would do that quite often from quick shifting when plowing snow. Only on the coldest windiest days of coarse! Bought a rebuilt trans from Charlie Pitcher to replace it. Before swapping the trans I pulled the shifter, and welded a couple of spots on the sides of the ball where it was worn, filed them down but left a little there to make up for any wear in the forks, tack welded the doughnut too and snugged the new dog point screw. It forces the forks to be in the neutral detent position before the other one moves. That rebuilt trans is still on the shelf since 2009 and haven't had it stick in 2 gears since fixing the shifter (or until I just wrote this). .

 

Oh, and it's been used every year too

Edited December 17, 2021 by wallfish

[Racinbob 11,098]

Wheel Horse issued a service bulletin recommending 40w oil specifically to address this issue. If you go back to a thread on saving older transmissions I did a short video on it. When they came up with a proper fix rather than a bandaid they neglected to change some of the owners manuals back to the heavier weight. In addition to the flat on the shift rail they milled the center neutral groove deeper. It's on the left here:

 

 

Later yet, probably due to a different manufacturing process, some of them looked like this:

 

 

In order for the deeper groove to be effective the stop pin had to be replaced with a longer 3/4" pin in lieu of the 11/16" pin. The spring and balls remained the same. 

 

Edited December 18, 2021 by Racinbob