Murray to IH 1568

[ebinmaine 67,422]

In my construction equipment world the hydraulics are always stronger and faster than needed, often by a margin of 2 or 3. 

 

Is there a way to control the speed manually using a longer more easily controlled lever?

 

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

stronger

Noted, although i'm not really worried about lack of power or speed. Keep in mind that this is 'just' a hobby project so the tipper won't be dumping day in and day out and the 3 point will not be lifting 1000lbs implements all day long.

 

In theory a smaller pump would mean I can generate the same amount of hydraulic force with less engine horsepower, eventhough slower. And a big(ger) pump would mean I can produce hydraulic force fast as long as the horsepower is there.

My goal is balance, I don't want to sit there for half a minute waiting till my tipper is done but is also want to be able to dump let's say 800 or 1000lbs with ease.

 

@Handy Don said earlier that for tipping 8-10 seconds or about 3 seconds for the 3 point are what I should be aiming for. Seems reasonable in both cases..?? 

[Handy Don 12,213]

2 hours ago, sjoemie himself said:

My goal is balance, I don't want to sit there for half a minute waiting till my tipper is done but is also want to be able to dump let's say 800 or 1000lbs with ease.

It makes good sense to size the pump for the lift time you are seeking for the highest volume cylinder within the correct range of working pressure (and remember, engine HP vs RPM is a factor). @ebinmaine can confirm that industrial hydraulics users often use a manual throttle override to boost the revs and speed up the motion (it usually isn't a load issue )

The trick here is valving. Are you planning to have (or do you already have) a "dual" control valve--i.e. two levers but on the same valve body? Or are are you thinking of plumbing in two completely separate valves? 

 

8 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Is there a way to control the speed manually using a longer more easily controlled lever?

This is a workable option if you have control valves that can handle it--sturdy seals and seats in well-machined bores. An "economy" valve will not give you fine control, regardless of handle throw.

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Okay.. reading the above I think i'm going to be looking for a 5 or 6cc per rev. pump.

That will give me the 8 to 10 seconds lift time for the tipper. For the 3 point i'll go with somekind of adjustable flow-valve to limit the flow so i'll get better control.

 

@Handy Don the idea is to get one valve for each 'function'. So one valve for the 3 point and one valve for the external port/tipper.

I'm not sure if that is considered to be a dual valve or two seperate valves?

My hydraulics lingo in Dutch is mediocre at best so in English it gets even more confusing. 

[Handy Don 12,213]

1 hour ago, sjoemie himself said:

Okay.. reading the above I think i'm going to be looking for a 5 or 6cc per rev. pump.

That will give me the 8 to 10 seconds lift time for the tipper. For the 3 point i'll go with somekind of adjustable flow-valve to limit the flow so i'll get better control.

 

@Handy Don the idea is to get one valve for each 'function'. So one valve for the 3 point and one valve for the external port/tipper.

I'm not sure if that is considered to be a dual valve or two seperate valves?

My hydraulics lingo in Dutch is mediocre at best so in English it gets even more confusing. 

I'll get some pictures to illustrate the thoughts.  

Separate valves for each task will be functionally easier, and with your fabrication skills, mounting should be easy!

Just know that single-action cylinders (like the extension one you pictured) use a different valve than dual-action cylinders.

BTW, having studied both French and German, and worked with folks from the Netherlands, I learned that Dutch isn't the most technology-compatible language, either. We'll find a way!

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

So time for an update. Unfortunately no hydraulic pump yet.. trip to Man kinda left a big hole in the budget so it will have to wait a little longer before I make the investment. 

In other news i've installed the brake pedal, brake (master) cylinder, brake fluid reservoir, manifold and all the hoses.

 

Master cylinder needed some tuning, the original feed line was on an angle I could'nt use so I welded up a stainless replacement part.

 

Got the manifold and brakelines together with the Honda calipers I bought and could use most of the brakelines. Only issue I had was that the banjo-style bolt (M10 x 1,0) would  not thread into the brake cylinder. The original brake line was hard line copper/steel tube. The problem with that was that the way that I mounted the brake cylinder required a sharp bend directly out of the master cylinder which turned out to be impossible and resulted in kinking the tube.

The solution was to order a custom, steel braided mind you, brake line with the correct banjo bolt (M10 x 1,25) and thread everything together. Fits like a glove now.

 

Pictures say more than you know what so here ya go..

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

I'm getting into the smaller stuff. Made a floorboard and a shift.. gate? I guess you could call it. Seems simple enough but was a lot of work to get right.

Also worked on the handbrake, which turned into a project in itself.. no pictures yet, i'll snap a few tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 10, 2022 by sjoemie himself
Added photo

[Oldskool 6,643]

Looking great. Can't wait to see those other pics. Keep up the awesome work.👍

Maybe a couple more of the tractor as a whole again.?

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Thanks for the support gentlemen!

@Oldskool here's a few pictures from a while back when I put everything together loosely.

 

 

[Oldskool 6,643]

Yup, a great looking tractor. 

I like the 2pc. front wheels

[Pullstart 62,834]

You’re an artist!  I’m sure given the time, talent and budget, I could do it too!  

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

@Pullstart Thanks man! Coming from another artist that's a big compliment seeing what you've done with the Sno-mo-horse 

 

Edit: budget is not an issue.. only when the SO finds out what you've spent 

Edited July 12, 2022 by sjoemie himself
Added info

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Finally got the handbrake working. This was waaaayyy more work than I would like to admit. First I bought a small handbrake lever and mechanism from a car thinking that would save me some work. Unfortunately that was still to big and I could'nt place it where and how I wanted it.

So plan B was to make something from scratch using some components from the part I bought. Ended up not being a lot.. finally got that end sorted.

 

On to the braking end. The Murray uses a disc brake on the transmission to stop the tractor. I was going to use that as a handbrake but the components were too far gone, especially the brake pads. Not wanting to hunt around for those things I purchased a universal drum brake kit with brakeband and adapted that to the original disc. Made a bracket and stuff and this is how it turned out.

 

Brake on:

 

Brake off:

 

Brake on:

 

Brake off:

 

Brake on:

 

Brake off:

Edited July 23, 2022 by sjoemie himself

[Oldskool 6,643]

That is a sweet set up. 👍

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Thanks again. I'll get some pictures of the inner workings tomorrow. Lots of parts in the latching mechanism.

Edited July 24, 2022 by sjoemie himself
Typo, thanks to lovely auto-correct

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

All the parts of the handbrake latching mechanism layed out.

Notice the square in the axle and on the handle? Look familiar? 

 

 

And everything assembled.

Pull the handle and the handbrake engages the drum and latches.

 

To release the handbrake you pull the handle a bit, push the button and let go of the handle and the button.

 

Handbrake cable slots into the 'fork' on the foreground.

[Oldskool 6,643]

Yup pretty dang nifty.

[Oldskool 6,643]

Well at least you will always have a breaker bar with you lol. Love it lol

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

44 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

a breaker bar

 

I thought it might be a beam type torque wrench.

 

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

@Oldskool thanks, and yes that is a breaker bar, the slide type not the swivel one.

I had to make it detachable to be able to take the hood on and off. Bought a cheap socket and welded it to a piece of shaft. Turned it down to size on the lathe and tapped an M6 thread in the axle. Bored a hole in the breaker bar for a bolt. 

That way I can detach the handle but still get drive to the mechanism, might add a setscrew when needed.

[Oldskool 6,643]

It's always interesting to see what out of the box thinking produces in conjuction with the repurpose and reuse theory.

[Pullstart 62,834]

Again, amazing engineering!

[sjoemie himself 3,068]

Soo long time no post.. i've been busy plugging away at things so I did not take as many pictures as I would have liked.

Since i'm a guest at a upcoming harvest-show I have to make sure the tractor is 'presentable'.

So to that end I put everything together today to see how it looks so far.

 

Waddaya think?

 

 

 

[Jeff-C175 7,199]

Amazing work Mark!

 

Isn't this a little bit uncomfortable though?  Or, did you lose something?

 

 

Edited August 13, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[JPWH 6,033]

That looks fantastic. I admire your engineering ability and

prefab skills.