Handy Don 13,340 #51 Posted December 19, 2021 1 minute ago, formariz said: LOL. A little unorthodox right? I always liked the idea of filling the uncrimped plug first making it easy for solder to totally cover penetrate through wires. Then crimp and apply heat shrink cover. I have however many times just soldered and not crimp. Inactualky like that better and never had one fail. Wouldn't the cold wire entering the hot solder cause cold joints? Or do you re-heat after the "plunge"? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,994 #52 Posted December 19, 2021 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Handy Don said: Wouldn't the cold wire entering the hot solder cause cold joints? Or do you re-heat after the "plunge"? I actually first fill all lugs . Then reheat and keep heating while I plunge it in. Flux also. Edited December 19, 2021 by formariz 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #53 Posted December 19, 2021 15 minutes ago, formariz said: never had one fail Most of the industry 'standards and practices' frown on crimping and soldering. I've heard all kinds of explanations as to why vs. why not and IMO most of them are just baloney. I've never had a crimp that I made fail. I've never had a solder connection that I made fail. I've never had a crimp and solder connection that I made fail. I HAVE seen all three done by OTHERS fail though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #54 Posted December 19, 2021 12 minutes ago, formariz said: Flux also. I know that you use the correct electronic flux! I'm absolutely certain that you know NOT to use PLUMBING flux... or any ACID based flux. (this post for the benefit of future readers...) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,994 #55 Posted December 19, 2021 Personally I rather not crimp and lately have not done it. I like the look of the uncrimped lug better although it gets covered with the heat shrink . 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,994 #56 Posted December 19, 2021 Just now, Jeff-C175 said: I know that you use the correct electronic flux! I'm absolutely certain that you know NOT to use PLUMBING flux... or any ACID based flux. (this post for the benefit of future readers...) Yes I do use electronics flux. I am not a great expert at these things but learned a bit long ago assembling Dynakits. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,522 #57 Posted December 19, 2021 They actually make the lugs prefilled with solder and flux. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #58 Posted December 19, 2021 (edited) 44 minutes ago, formariz said: assembling Dynakits OMG! I sure wish I had never sold my Stereo 70 ! and the preamp... forget the model number of that one. Had the FM tuner also. I bought those with money from my paper route! I had a HUGE paper route but it still took a LONG time to save for those. I was all of what, maybe 14 years old! Edited December 19, 2021 by Jeff-C175 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #59 Posted December 19, 2021 48 minutes ago, formariz said: heat shrink I've been using the stuff filled with hot glue the past few years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 13,340 #60 Posted December 19, 2021 1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said: I know that you use the correct electronic flux! I'm absolutely certain that you know NOT to use PLUMBING flux... or any ACID based flux. (this post for the benefit of future readers...) I have both kinds and keep them in separate places in the shop! Both are essential and good at their respective purposes! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
formariz 11,994 #61 Posted December 19, 2021 1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said: OMG! I sure wish I had never sold my Stereo 70 ! and the preamp... forget the model number of that one. Had the FM tuner also. I bought those with money from my paper route! I had a HUGE paper route but it still took a LONG time to save for those. I was all of what, maybe 14 years old! If tubed it was a PAS3. Otherwise it would have been a PAT4 or 5. Had a few ST70s. Today not working it is a $700.00 amp. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,203 #62 Posted December 20, 2021 3 hours ago, formariz said: tubed it was a PAS3 Yep, 12AX7's, four of them. DC on the heaters. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 832 #63 Posted December 29, 2021 china freight has nice hydraulic crimpers with dies. https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,087 #64 Posted December 29, 2021 @formariz we always had , a tubing bender and a wire crimper in separate vises in the weld area . once you regularly used them , you could really speed up and simplify related work. the instrument techs , would bend up the tubing run they were going to make up with light wire , as a guide for tubing bends, then fit it to a panel board , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,479 #65 Posted December 29, 2021 These straps are nice...got rid of my headlight flicker by grounding the hood, added another chassis ground. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,717 #66 Posted December 30, 2021 I don't know why I didn't mention this before... but the best pre-made cables and lug sets I have found is from Spartan Power... I used those when I re-wired the Ranger after the crate motor... and haven't had an issue with any positive or negative wiring... The Spartan power ones are made in the USA... Don 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
