Yall that have rattle canned...

[Gregor 4,846]

Got a call this morning from my media blaster, my parts were done. 35 pieces. That $2000 air compressor is looking better all the time.

5 hours ago, Gregor said:

The hardest paint on top of soft primer is still a problem.

Thinking about this, I stopped by the paint shop in the big city, and bought some primer, to spray through my gun. The gal there explained that rattle can paint obviously does not have hardener in it, and while it may eventually dry hard, it could take weeks, months, years. I bought some primer. Gets mixed 4 parts primer, 1 part hardener, 2 parts reducer, to be used as a filler/primer. As simply a primer, mix 4-1-1. Pieces have been blasted. ALL / EVERYTHING, bare metal. Any of you experienced painters have a recommendation?

[Lee1977 6,666]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

Got a call this morning from my media blaster, my parts were done. 35 pieces. That $2000 air compressor is looking better all the time.

Thinking about this, I stopped by the paint shop in the big city, and bought some primer, to spray through my gun. The gal there explained that rattle can paint obviously does not have hardener in it, and while it may eventually dry hard, it could take weeks, months, years. I bought some primer. Gets mixed 4 parts primer, 1 part hardener, 2 parts reducer, to be used as a filler/primer. As simply a primer, mix 4-1-1. Pieces have been blasted. ALL / EVERYTHING, bare metal. Any of you experienced painters have a recommendation?

That is why I paint in July and August put it out in the sun It gets too hot to touch. Small pieces I can paint anytime, I use a heat lamp up close dries in around thirty minuets.

 

[Lee1977 6,666]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

Got a call this morning from my media blaster, my parts were done. 35 pieces. That $2000 air compressor is looking better all the time.

Thinking about this, I stopped by the paint shop in the big city, and bought some primer, to spray through my gun. The gal there explained that rattle can paint obviously does not have hardener in it, and while it may eventually dry hard, it could take weeks, months, years. I bought some primer. Gets mixed 4 parts primer, 1 part hardener, 2 parts reducer, to be used as a filler/primer. As simply a primer, mix 4-1-1. Pieces have been blasted. ALL / EVERYTHING, bare metal. Any of you experienced painters have a recommendation?

That is why I paint in July and August put it out in the sun It gets too hot to touch. Small pieces I can paint anytime, I use a heat lamp up close dries in around thirty minuets.

 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

6 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

dries in around thirty minuets.

 

Maybe dry to touch, but I guarantee that under the 'skin' is still softy soft.  Takes weeks for the paint to harden (cure) all the way to the bottom!  You can't really speed that process.

 

Edited December 13, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Lee1977 6,666]

6 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Maybe dry to touch, but I guarantee that under the 'skin' is still softy soft.  Takes weeks for the paint to harden (cure) all the way to the bottom!  You can't really speed that process.

 

I don't think you realize how hot that 300 w heat lamp gets. If that's your opinion it's all right with me. 

[Gregor 4,846]

I can go to a tractor I painted last year, and put my thumb nail in the paint, if I want to. To me, that's not DRY dry. I really don't like the heat lamp method. Like @Jeff-C175 the outer skin may be dry. That "skin" may be preventing the layers underneath from ever completely drying. I may be all wrong, and @Lee1977may be right. I am sure he has been at this a lot longer than I have. I once read where someone, don't remember who, stated they liked to leave their paint jobs out in the rain to "cure" them. I think that may have some merit to it.

[Gregor 4,846]

1 minute ago, Lee1977 said:

I don't think you realize how hot that 300 w heat lamp gets. If that's your opinion it's all right with me. 

Well, you got me curious. I am going to get a 300w lamp, and test your method. I have some pieces I painted weeks ago. I can easily put my thumb nail in them. I'm gonna give it a shot.

[Lee1977 6,666]

1 hour ago, Gregor said:

Well, you got me curious. I am going to get a 300w lamp, and test your method. I have some pieces I painted weeks ago. I can easily put my thumb nail in them. I'm gonna give it a shot.

That is a heat lamp bulb don't know if a regular 300 w bulb will get that hot. My dad bought it back in the 50's there isn't any brand name left on it. Here are a couple of pictures.

 

 

[Gregor 4,846]

The largest heat lamp bulb I could find was 250w. It's cooking.

 

Does not seem to be hurting the paint.

Edited December 13, 2021 by Gregor

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

At some point the heat will start to SOFTEN the paint.  It may in fact be DRY, and may even be CURED, but remember that the use of a scraper and a heat gun is a very easy way to REMOVE paint by softening it.  It scrapes right off...  maybe my opinion but I've done a LOT of painting in my life and removed almost as much paint as I've applied.  Just this past fall I restored a garage door that is 60 years old and at least 10 coats of oil based paint came right off to bare wood with little effort from the heat gun and scraper.

 

YES... I agree that BAKING a fresh paint job can be a method of driving the solvents out of the paint, automotive paint shops do this all the time, but when it's HOT it's SOFT.  And paint dries and cures from the outside down.  A 'skin' will form first.  The solvents continue to migrate through the paint to the surface where they evaporate.  Paint cannot possibly be completely dry and cured after a half hour under a heat lamp.  Skinned over and dry to the touch, yes, but handle carefully and don't press too hard or your fingerprints will be in that paint for posterity!  Let the parts COOL again before handling also!

 

Maybe it's an opinion, but it's also my experience.  And I'm no Spring chicken either!  

 

 

 

Edited December 13, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[WHX?? 48,828]

22 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

fingerprints will be in that paint for posterity

No for anti  them MI boys come crawling around! 

 

24 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 I'm no Spring chicken either

Well what come first then the chicken or the egg? 

[Gregor 4,846]

2 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

 

Well what come first then the chicken or the egg? 

I'm not sure, but I think his egg came along before this chicken !

[Gregor 4,846]

I could only find a 250w heat lamp, so I baked the painted piece for 1 hour. As you can see in the above post, the piece got up to 188F. I kept an eye on it, thinking it may damage the paint, but it never did. I took it outside to cool. Outside temp, ~46. When I brought it in, the piece was 54F. I couldn't poke my thumb nail into it as readily as before, but I could scratch it with my nail. I let it get up to room temp, 71F. That's where it sets now. Again, I cannot poke my thumb nail into it, but I can scratch it. I cannot go out and scratch the paint on my truck with my thumb nail. Thank God !  This piece is painted with single stage paint from a gun, on top of rattle can primer. Maybe it's not a fair test. I just got my parts back from the blaster today. Most of these parts will be primed, and top coated, with single stage paint, through a gun. I have to get them done before they start rusting up on me. After that, I will experiment more with rattle can paint, and a heat lamp. So far, it seems as though @Lee1977's heat lamp method may have some merit to it. Although I am not sure which is worse, soft paint, or paint that is easily scratched. If I take a piece that wasn't baked, it too will scratch, but it is softer, IMO anyway. I am not sure how you would bake an entire tractor up to 188F though.

Just food for thought.

 

Got curious again. The one tractor I have that my nephew (a real painter) painted, you cannot dig your nail into it or scratch it. The tractor I painted with base, and clear coated with a gun, you can, but it was primed with rattle cans. These tractors are not stored in a heated area.

Edited December 14, 2021 by Gregor

[Gregor 4,846]

6 hours ago, kpinnc said:

Gonna say the obvious: Greg that 876 is gorgeous! 

It is definitely one of my favorites. I love the genny motor. I like the way it sits. It starts and runs perfectly. I just wish it had a brake. 

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

49 minutes ago, Gregor said:

my nephew (a real painter) painted, you cannot dig your nail into it or scratch it

 

Did he use automotive paint with a hardener?

 

Since you're spraying you might consider adding a hardener to your recipe.

 

OR, after the paint is cured, go back with a 2k clear coat.

 

 

Edited December 14, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Gregor 4,846]

4 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Did he use automotive paint with a hardener?

 

Since you're spraying you might consider adding a hardener to your recipe.

 

 

Yes he did. That's what I am about to use, both for top coat and primer. I did use hardener in the paint I put on top of rattle can primer.

 

I have never put primer through a gun before.

Edited December 14, 2021 by Gregor

[Vurge 158]

8 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Maybe dry to touch, but I guarantee that under the 'skin' is still softy soft.  Takes weeks for the paint to harden (cure) all the way to the bottom!  You can't really speed that process.

 

 

I painted my 656 with rattle cans, both primer coat and about 6 layers of color.  Quite easily scratched for the couple months.  After a summer of 100F days it's now a pretty hard coat.