Floyd Pink 44 #1 Posted December 10, 2021 I hate to beat a dead horse but I have tried everything on a Raider12, 1968 model. The idler pulley does not appear to move far enough with the clutch /brake pedal pushed down to loosen the belt. It was working fine until it wasn't. The tabs are bent, the cover is on. The tab that is on the cover y'all always talk about was never on the cover. Is it possible that the drive belt is worn enough that the tabs can't grab the belt? It all started when I replaced the brake lining I've adjusted everything 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,085 #2 Posted December 10, 2021 You've covered most of the things that would correct the problem. The things you didn't specify are if you have the OEM belt, or if the belt you have is fabric covered or not. An OEM belt isn't required, but at least should be both the correct length, and fabric covered to allow slippage when tension is released. The only other thing I can think of to ask is if the idler pulley is original or at least the correct size. This comment may bring out some smirks, but I rarely have OEM belts to use on my tractors. What I do make sure of though, is that the belt is the correct size and type. Sometimes that can be difficult when WH used some oddball sizes on OEM belts. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #3 Posted December 10, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, Floyd Pink said: not appear to move far enough On the left side of the tractor, the rod for the clutch. their it's attachted to a pivot point. Often that pin inside breaks. You can see here is some metalwire in place.( But that is not a correct solution. as it has to be a tight fit) See If you have some slop in there. Edited December 10, 2021 by Maxwell-8 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,046 #4 Posted December 10, 2021 Sounds like the brake is applied before the clutch is fully released. Back the brake off to get the clutch working and then do the brake. Adjustment procedure is in the operator manual. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,298 #5 Posted December 10, 2021 (edited) Like Garry @gwest_ca said, if the brake adjustment is too tight you won't be able to push the clutch in far enough. On page 6 of the owner manual it covers brake adjustment as well as belt guard adjustment. Another thing to look at is the right side running board, if it is pushed in too far it can interfere with the clutch. Hope this helps. Edited December 10, 2021 by 953 nut 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Floyd Pink 44 #6 Posted December 10, 2021 58 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Sounds like the brake is applied before the clutch is fully released. Back the brake off to get the clutch working and then do the brake. Adjustment procedure is in the operator manual. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Floyd Pink 44 #7 Posted December 10, 2021 Tried and tried to no avail. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,634 #8 Posted December 10, 2021 @Floyd Pink looking at the nail in the lever and related rust , typically tells me the problem is that, the intended operation , is being used up before moving. gone over every one of my sloppy linkages , firmed up with washers and lubricant . most important part of movement is the starting movement , correct dowel pin to secure that lever , would help its swing arc. the pull lever is also probably sloppy . seen this set up in many dysfunctional , horses, pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maxwell-8 4,277 #9 Posted December 10, 2021 4 hours ago, Floyd Pink said: Tried and tried to no avail. Do you have some unwanted movement in the linkage I told you? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Floyd Pink 44 #10 Posted December 10, 2021 4 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said: Do you have some unwanted movement in the linkage I told you 4 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said: Do you have some unwanted movement in the linkag 18 hours ago, kpinnc said: You've covered most of the things that would correct the problem. The things you didn't specify are if you have the OEM belt, or if the belt you have is fabric covered or not. An OEM belt isn't required, but at least should be both the correct length, and fabric covered to allow slippage when tension is released. The only other thing I can think of to ask is if the idler pulley is original 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Floyd Pink 44 #11 Posted December 10, 2021 Idler pulley is original. The belt is from the Mid-70s. Gates B belt. I probably sold it to him as I worked in the autoparts store when I was high school. I noticed a few minutes ago that the belt is starting to come apart. It's so worn out its riding just below pulley groove. I am going to find the part number for the belt a replace it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,150 #12 Posted December 11, 2021 B belts do not work well in this application. You need a 5L belt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Floyd Pink 44 #13 Posted December 18, 2021 On 12/10/2021 at 8:15 AM, peter lena said: @Floyd Pink looking at the nail in the lever and related rust , typically tells me the problem is that, the intended operation , is being used up before moving. gone over every one of my sloppy linkages , firmed up with washers and lubricant . most important part of movement is the starting movement , correct dowel pin to secure that lever , would help its swing arc. the pull lever is also probably sloppy . seen this set up in many dysfunctional , horses, pete Not my picture. 🤣 No rusty nail for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites