Another LED thread...

[kpinnc 12,028]

In the past few years, I've tried 4 different methods of LED light replacements. Let me say first that though some are better than others, ALL of them far exceed OEM light options so far as output is concerned. They also have very low power consumption, don't get hot, and are claimed to last thousands of hours. So far none of mine have needed replacement.

 

There are some people who prefer incandescent traditional bulbs over LEDs, and I do not intend to try to sell them something new. We all have differing opinions, and that is the way it should be. There is also the argument for keeping these machines as close to original as possible. This thread is not intended to challenge any of those opinions. What this thread is intended to do, is offer some insight into what I've found in some testing for those of us who still work these machines, and look to improve where we can their capabilities. Make no mistake- LEDs greatly increase light output in front of your machine, and do so economically and safely.

 

All of my tractors have one of two types of lights: the PAR 36 style on 300/400/500 series tractors, and the automotive turn signal type in most everything Wheel Horse manufactured between 1965 and 1984. This thread focuses mainly on those. I plan to do some comparison pictures and add to this thread. Some side by side comparisons will be added later as well.

 

The PAR-36 versions are the simplest modification. You just replace the OEM lights with LEDs. If you go to SuperBrightLEDs.com and search "PAR 36", you'll find several options.

 

The older style lights require some modifications. There are many options, and each requires different levels of modification.

 

Remember that "warmer" colors below 4500 are more yellow like incandescent, and "cooler" above 5500 are whiter, and even lean into bluish colors above 6000. Combine this with lumen ratings (which are NOT standardized),  and it can be confusing. To be honest, most any LEDs are brighter than traditional lights on these tractors, so I doubt this thread will help much there. There are more options than there are shoe sizes, and they vary between seller just as much.

 

I'll be adding some mods that I have done as well in the next few days.

 

Edited December 9, 2021 by kpinnc

[peter lena 8,627]

@kpinnc good looking  unit ! agree with your lighting insight ,  only thing I  would add is increased grounding points. obviously your set up detailing shows', pete  

[kpinnc 12,028]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@kpinnc good looking  unit ! agree with your lighting insight ,  only thing I  would add is increased grounding points. obviously your set up detailing shows', pete 

 

Yes sir, there will be better grounding emphasized in my build. Some have complained of LEDs flickering, but I have never seen it on any of mine. I have always suspected poor grounding through the hood pivot bracket, as LEDs can turn on and off hundreds of times per second vs. heating an element in traditional bulbs. 

[lynnmor 7,306]

8 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

Yes sir, there will be better grounding emphasized in my build. Some have complained of LEDs flickering, but I have never seen it on any of mine. I have always suspected poor grounding through the hood pivot bracket, as LEDs can turn on and off hundreds of times per second vs. heating an element in traditional bulbs. 

 

Flickering may come from voltage regulators that are less than ideal, or the old points style used in the good old days.  Also, some AC leakage past the diodes that are in some voltage regulators or mounted separately.  I suppose there are some lighting circuits that used AC power in some old pullstart tractors.

[peter lena 8,627]

@kpinnc  , regularly use this type of wire connection point ,https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Copper-Rod-Tin-Plated-2-STD-1- , use a 10-12 ga  wire from engine grounding area to hood ground point , no failures . I main line from battery ground point , to engine , 4 ga cable , clutch pedal area ,  lighter wire up to rectifier mount bolts and then on to hood lights . dielectric grease and serated washers , tell me how that works . pete 

[peter lena 8,627]

@roadapples  realize that my wiring upgrades are not the norm , but then again , the problem is gone , isn't that what you want ? electrical lugging allows you solid bolt /ground  each stage of your rewire , from battery bolt , to engine corner , to rectifier  , ensuring charging grounding , and on to head light grounding . it just consistently works , pete

[ebinmaine 67,496]

13 hours ago, kpinnc said:

I'll be adding some mods that I have done as well in the next few days

 

We have several sets of LED lights to be installed.  

 

A fella at work bought a bulk pack of the old style backup lamp replacement bulbs that Horses used for front lights.  

Look like little corn cobs. 

I put them in Trina's 867. She cleaned up and painted the headlamp bezel and.....

 

Excellent.   

 

 

[kpinnc 12,028]

So this mod is the "ugly" one, but it is completely reversable. I've done this a couple times now, and it gives excellent results. Definitely the brightest LED mod I've found so far for this style headlight.

 

The LED assemblies are made for overhead interior lights on a car. I got them online for about $6 each. They come with double side tape on the back, and I don't use it. 

 

The short of this is simple. I solder small JST connectors on just in case one LED panel fails, though it hasn't happened yet. Then I use hot glue to secure them to the back of the bezel. I use hot glue because it holds great, but can be removed without damaging the bezel. The glue seals out any crud, and so far has held up to the heat of the engine no problem. The pictures don't come close to showing just how bright these are. 

[kpinnc 12,028]

The other mod for this style headlight is more common: just swap bulbs in the original housing. Results here vary wildly depending on the type of bulb used, but can definitely add some serious improvement regardless.

 

I've found that adding something reflective in the back of the housing makes a big difference. The last one I did used chrome duct tape. It turned out pretty good, but would have been better if I used better bulbs. 

[Maxwell-8 4,275]

I always stayed with incandescent bulb cause I like the look. stock, cozy color, and often don't need the output. 60w of incandescent is sufficient for me. 

 

On my c-141 I will be trying some LED's

Have some rear LED from Skipper.

And in  the front I will be going to use the USA made Baja Designs S1:  2"x2"x2" and 2350 lumens with what I believe to be a nice color. not to white, not to yellow. 

I hope Santa has deep pockets this year tho..   

 

I have a chinese 35" singelrow ledbar, claimed to be 150 watts, but  couldn't produce more light then my 150watts incandescent headlights.

[kpinnc 12,028]

12 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

 

On my c-141 I will be trying some LED's

Have some rear LED from Skipper.

And in  the front I will be going to use the USA made Baja Designs S1:  2"x2"x2" and 2350 lumens with what I believe to be a nice color. not to white, not to yellow.

 

I would only suggest that you check how hot those get before installing the lens. Doesn't take much to melt one!

[kpinnc 12,028]

Got the Bronco converted to full LED. Same front setup as the 867, and non- standard tail lights because my fender is notched for the 3-point. Added a single inline fuse holder and fused for 5 amps.

[19richie66 17,508]

Very nice. I just brought back my dad’s Bronco 14 home. I’ll have to check yours out more closely. I converted my gt14 to halogen lamps with a cooling fan in the front with hopes of going led in the future. I like the led panels you installed. Have a link for those? 

Edited January 9, 2022 by 19richie66

[ebinmaine 67,496]

32 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

I converted my gt14 to halogen lamps with a cooling fan in the front

Pretty slick Richie

[19richie66 17,508]

It works. 

[kpinnc 12,028]

1 hour ago, 19richie66 said:

Have a link for those? 

 

I got them on Ebay. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/131350640228

[ebinmaine 67,496]

4 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

I got them on Ebay. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/131350640228

Thanks. 

Ordered a couple. 

[jonw440 187]

Vstar LED PAR36 bulbs.

I love these lights! I used them the other night and worked great. No flicker (I did add a ground wire from the motor to the ground bolt on the hood hinge then up to the lights)

The lights were bright enough for me.

 

[peter lena 8,627]

@jonw440   thanks for the bulb tip , 2 on the way , keep on experimenting , making it better ,  pete

[19richie66 17,508]

I used one of these for my lighting. I ran a ground wire directly from the battery to this post and then tied my ground wires to it. No flicker.

Edited January 9, 2022 by 19richie66

[Jeff-C175 7,202]

2 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

the battery

 

Richie, is this a stock battery hold down ?  and the Plexiglas shield?  

 

 

[kpinnc 12,028]

6 hours ago, 19richie66 said:

I used one of these for my lighting. I ran a ground wire directly from the battery to this post and then tied my ground wires to it. No flicker.

 

I love the plexiglass shield! Tried and true method for protecting hot circuits! 

[kpinnc 12,028]

8 hours ago, jonw440 said:

Vstar LED PAR36 bulbs.

I love these lights! I used them the other night and worked great. No flicker (I did add a ground wire from the motor to the ground bolt on the hood hinge then up to the lights)

The lights were bright enough for me.

 

That's s great price on those. I might have to get a couple from there myself. The ones I have were about $19 each.

[19richie66 17,508]

4 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

Richie, is this a stock battery hold down ?  and the Plexiglas shield?  

 

 

I made the hold down and the lexan is part of a golf cart windshield. It was the easiest way to add a fuse panel, relays and circuit breaker. 

Edited January 9, 2022 by 19richie66

[Handy Don 12,226]

On 1/9/2022 at 8:04 AM, jonw440 said:

Vstar LED PAR36 bulbs.

I love these lights! I used them the other night and worked great. No flicker (I did add a ground wire from the motor to the ground bolt on the hood hinge then up to the lights)

The lights were bright enough for me.

 

   

We have a set of these in use as well and are equally pleased. I added a 2-conductor connector with a direct ground to the headlight sockets.